Has anyone done a liveaboard in French Polynesia?

[laurenceh]

rangiroa is a must do, taputa pass is one of the ten best dives in the world imho, wall to wall sharks, dolphins, enormous schools of barracuda and eagle rays, during season migrating whales as well. manihi is also nice, lots of manta rays in the lagoon.

 

[Manuel Sam]

If you wind up spending time in Fakarava, consider diving the southern pass off of Tetamanu Village, which is a narrower pass than the northern pass. Hence the sharks are more densely packed. It is not unusual to see over 100 Grey Reef Sharks with a few Black Tips mixed in.

There is a rather rustic resort there - expect mosquitoes (they provide a mosquito net), no hot water, rather dim lights, and the food is so-so. But in terms of the diving and the Edenic setting, it is a "must-do" as long as you're coming this far. I would venture to say that fewer people dive here than exotic and strictly liveaboard destinations like Cocos or Malpelo - so there is that feel of diving a really pristine area where few people set foot and where the coral is in great shape and with lots of fish. It is common to see black tip reef sharks swimming right outside your bungalow. Understand of course that what I am saying here is based on my last trip there in 2006.

You can also do it as a day trip with one of the dive operators that operate closer to the northern pass. There are more choices for accommodations up there.

As for the argument that Fiji offers better diving, in my opinion, it is misleading to talk about "better" diving without taking into account what one is looking to see. "Best diving" for big stuff would be worthless to someone looking for the best macro/muck diving, for example.

Fiji arguably has the best soft corals, and if that is what you're looking for, then for sure it is better than the Tuamotos, because you are going to find mostly hard corals (and in really good shape, I might add) in Tahiti. Fiji has a land-based shark dive in Beqa Lagoon that attracts 7-8 different types of sharks, including Bulls and sometimes Tigers. The liveaboards in Fiji feature a channel dive with Grey Reef Sharks. And Fiji also offers good macro opportunities.

But if it's the sheer number of sharks of different types, nice reefs, lots of fish, and incredibly clear waters that appeal to you, my vote would be for Tahiti, and more specifically, the Tuamotos. And in Tahiti, the French baguettes and croissants are outstanding!

 

[Margery Mullett]

I just found that you can buy an air pass for a reasonable cost which includes travel to Rangiora, Tikehau, Fakarava, Papeeti and Moorea. So I think I'm onto a plan. There is a lot under a search for Tikehau.

Now I'm wondering if I should take my dive gear with me. It seems that equipment is usually included. But I like my stuff.... Ideas?

French pizza?????

 

[Margery Mullett]

I'm definitely going to Tahiti. I know its impossible to compare best places; just different places. Last yr I was in Indonesia .. beautiful soft corals and very fun muck diving. (not on the same dives) So I've seen "strange stuff" and pretty stuff, but I've never seen "big stuff," and that's what I'd like next. Ergo, Tahiti. Thanks for your insight.

I was looking at the southern pass on Fakarava. I think its about a 2 hour boat ride to get down there, though. If it is that far to dive, I'd prefer to stay there a few days. I find 3 hotels there. Do you remember the name of yours?
Thanks!

 

[Margery Mullett]

Thanks! Rangiroa is on my growing list. I've never seen a dolphin or a whale. I saw mantas once, but the water was so turbid that i could hardly make them out. Its a great help to hear from people who have been there and who also dive.

 

[1erCRU]

As you've discovered, a nice planning tool for island hopping in Polynésie française, is the Air Tahiti (Iti not Nui) Air Tahiti : Domestic airline of Tahiti and her islands > web site they have a number of multi-island passes, one of which just might be your perfect combo. It's really hard to go wrong diving in the Tuamotus. I've said it in other threads, a good day diving in this part of PF is much superior to a lot of the SoPac.

Air Tahiti Iti makes it easy to get to some of the most remote/pristine dive locations with a quick flight from PAP. Show your C card and get an extra baggage allowance. So it is reasonable to take your gear.

Take lot's of money, it's expensive, although you might be hitting the trend just right with the US dollar starting to rise against the Euro. If the Euro significantly drops against the Dollar it will take the CFP with it.

 

[Margery Mullett]

"Show your C card and get an extra baggage allowance. So it is reasonable to take your gear." How would I ever have found this out??? I'm taking my gear. Air Tahiti : Domestic airline of Tahiti and her islands : This is a great site. I've been looking for this all over the internet. Guess I was looking where the light was off.Anyway, I've found my pass.I see Tahiti is pricey (very). That's why my trip will be shorter than normal. I wouldn't wish anything bad on anyone; but if the Euro slipped, say, just for 2 weeks, that would maybe be OK.Thanks! MM

 

[Manuel Sam]

Margery,

Tetamanu Village is the name of the place I stayed at. It is owned and operated by Sane and Annabelle Richmond. As best as I know, there may be another resort across a narrow channel called Tetamanu Sauvage, but it is one and the same dive operation. Just remember my warning about the Spartan conditions.

The advantage of staying there is to forego the two hour ride each way, as you well observed. Plus, dive operators near the northern pass charge a premium to go down there, for obvious reasons, and they have to have a minimum number of divers to go down. In addition, being there means that they can time the incoming tide quite accurately since the channel or pass is best dived on an incoming tide. On an outgoing tide, usually they dive the walls on the outside at either side of the mouth of the channel. Sometimes they also dive along the sloping wall along the edge of the channel on an outgoing tide but avoid getting as far as the mouth.

When I was last there, they had a pet Napoleon Wrasse that came up on cue every morning at breakfast time to be fed. His name was Calein-Calein, and it was not unusual for him to come out and greet us when we drifted back to shore on our return from a dive. I hope that he's still around and you get to see him. He was already huge back then.

In spite of what I said before, do not overlook diving the northern pass at Fakarava as well.

As far as mantas and dolphins, I saw them at Tiputa Pass and on the outer wall in Rangiroa. I don't recall seeing them in Fakarava altho anything is possible.

 

[Carnell04]

I just found that you can buy an air pass for a reasonable cost which includes travel to Rangiora, Tikehau, Fakarava, Papeeti and Moorea. So I think I'm onto a plan. There is a lot under a search for Tikehau.

Now I'm wondering if I should take my dive gear with me. It seems that equipment is usually included. But I like my stuff.... Ideas?

French pizza?????

How much is that air pass? I was thinking of going 4 nights to Fakarava, 4 nights in Rangiroa, and 4 nights in Bora Bora in that order. Bora Bora is for the non-diving wife. Can I fly straight to Fakarava from Papeete then from Fakarava to Rangiroa and then to Bora Bora? How much per person for these 3 flights plus getting back to Papeete?

Also, are people saying if given the choice, stay and dive at the south end of Fakarava? Is south better than north? No way I'm going 2.5 hours each way to get to the south so if it is better, I would stay down there.

Thanks!

 

[Margery Mullett]

Sorry, I've been out of town ...

This site has the schedule for Air Tahiti

http://www.airtahiti.com/downloads/...NTER20112012__v07nov2011____D.PubINTLangl.pdf

These are some pages for more Air Tahiti info with more price information.
Air Tahiti : Domestic airline of Tahiti and her islands > Downloads

Download www.airtahiti.aero > Downloads The passes look reasonably priced and also somewhat flexible. I'm sure that's the way to go.

Oh, I just noticed that there is a flight map on the www.airtahiti.aero > Downloads site. Looks like flights have to start and end at Papaete. or maybe Bora Bora. Take a look. For more info, if you can get your hands on the Lonely Planet: Tahiti and French Polynesia (2009) there is more information on Air Tahiti, with their route maps and which passes cover which islands. I tried to scan it for you; it is just 2 pages, but I can't get my scanner to cooperate. I could copy and FAX if that would help. Let me know. Don't forget to ask for extra baggage allowance for divers.



As far as the north end and south end of Fakarava; I still don't know. It looks like great diving in both places and I wouldn't want to miss something wonderful after traveling so far. I'm like you ... no way as far as the 2.5 hr boat ride! I'm thinking of spending a little more time there and staying at both places for 2-3 days. It seems that the hotels on the south end ask that you stay 2-3 days. Maybe someone else has a better/newer idea and will respond.

Margie