Weve recently returned from a two week trip to Grand Cayman, staying at Cobalt Coast and diving with Divetech. Our original plan had been to do one week in the West Bay area and a second week at Cayman Diving Lodge at East End. After Hurricane Ivan demolished most of East End, we were fortunate to be able to add a second week at Cobalt Coast.
We arrived on November 20th, the first day that overnight visitors were allowed back onto the island. As the plane came in on final approach, we saw thousands of blue tarpaulins covering roofs everywhere. On land, the remnants of the storm were visible, not only in the remaining debris but in the starkness of areas where all trees and vegetation had been blown away. Obviously, some people suffered more than others, but everyone we met seemed genuinely relieved to be resuming their old routines. Before the storm, Divetechs two boats had been tied to the dock at the Yacht Club. After the storm, they were found, relatively intact, in the mangrove trees about a quarter mile from the water (along with the dock they had been tied to). The Divetech staff had spent the post-storm months repairing the boats and the dive shops, and everyone was ready to get back to diving.
On the afternoon of our arrival, we had hoped to do a shore dive from the Cobalt Coast pier but, the wind had been blowing hard from the Northeast and the breakers were pounding the end of the dock. Alas, the wind persisted throughout our stay, but there were several days when shore diving was OK from the CC pier (try the scooters if you want to go all the way out to the deep wall). Shore dives were doable most days at Turtle Reef, although the seas were pretty choppy there too.
The typical dive day starts with breakfast at 6:45 (I know , but you get used to it). Dive starts at 7:45. Most days we were driven by minibus to the West Bay boat landing where we boarded the boats for the short run to the sites along the West and Northwest walls. On several days, we were able to board the boats at Cobalt Coast, but this was dicey due to the choppy seas and shallow bottom. We were able to dive some of the great sites on the North Wall (notably Ghost Mountain, a mind-blower) but the seas were high and the current strong. Most divers preferred the easier conditions on the still-spectacular W/NW sites. The payoff for the early start is that they plan for two sixty-minute dives with an intervening surface interval of 45 minutes. If you dont have a computer, Divetech will loan you one for free. As long as you had enough air (or other gas of choice) you could generally do the first dive to 100+ feet yet get in the full 60 minutes by finishing the dive on top at about 40 feet. Second dives were in the 50-60 foot range and were beautiful and were easily within a 60 minute no-deco profile. After unloading at the public dock we were driven back to the resort, usually by about 11:45.
I had expected that the reefs would have sustained more storm damage than I actually saw. At the shallower depths there was some damage to the corals and sponges, and there often seemed to be a dusting of sand on the shallow structures. Below about 40 feet, though, I noticed little damage. The DMs said that on many of the swim-thru dives (such as Trinity Caves, Big Tunnels, Little Tunnels and Round Rock) the tunnels had actually been enlarged by the displacement of sand and were more accessible to divers. The most startling sight on the reef was the detritus that must have blown off the island during the storm. Flower pots, a lampshade, a bright orange traffic cone, various articles of clothing, items of lawn furniture and an upholstered sofa cushion. Divers were encouraged to help clean up if so inclined.
Divetech put two DMs in the water on every dive, and you were welcome to follow them or do your own thing. Water temperature was consistently 82F (84 at Stingray City). Visibility averaged 70-80ft. There was abundant fish life, and on many dives I could have logged 60+ species using the REEF method. Turtles and eels were spotted on almost every dive. Groupers, snappers, tarpon and every kind of parrot, angel and filefish. Schools of jack and chub and parades of Creole wrasse. At the Turtle Reef shore dive, I must have seen 15 lobsters.
Meanwhile, back at Cobalt Coast , this place has the nicest accommodations weve ever encountered at a serious dive resort. The rooms are large with European-style furniture and appointments, cable TV, DVD, phone, fridge, coffee maker, electronic safe, etc. (Wireless internet is available in the bar/restaurant area, but BYOC). Bathrooms were spacious with great showers and big thick bath towels. Also blow-dryer and ironing board for that high-maintenance diver! Breakfast is included in the room rate. When there are many divers in the house, breakfast is served as a buffet beginning at 6:45.Fruit, juices, eggs, bacon, sausages, potatoes, toast, French toast or pancakes, yoghurt, cereals, etc. On days with fewer divers, breakfast is served a la carte.
We chose the all-inclusive meal plan which includes lunch and dinner and all tips and taxes. Unless you rent a car or plan to spend a lot of time and money on taxis, this is your best bet as there really are no restaurant alternatives nearby and the prices are very high. Unlike many AI plans, lunch and dinner are not served as buffet or family-style meals. You can show up when you want and you order from the menu, the same menu offered to the public. Lunch is a choice among salads, sandwiches, pastas, platters, etc. Dinner includes choice of starter, entrée and dessert. There are specials offered every day and the chef is very good. A few items (e.g. lobster or strip steak) have a small surcharge. Bar charges are not included and, like everywhere in the Caymans, they are on the expensive side.
Arie, the founder and owner of Cobalt Coast, is a Dutch ex-pat with many years experience in the hospitality industry. You will see Arie at 6:45 helping to set out the breakfast and hes still there after dinner to wish you goodnight. Hes a true, old-fashioned host and, along with Dora and the rest of the CC staff, they make you feel at home. Nancy and the whole crew at Divetech are equally solicitous (and these guys are also into deep air, technical, trimix, rebreather, etc., in case youre looking for something different). Well certainly be going back.
We arrived on November 20th, the first day that overnight visitors were allowed back onto the island. As the plane came in on final approach, we saw thousands of blue tarpaulins covering roofs everywhere. On land, the remnants of the storm were visible, not only in the remaining debris but in the starkness of areas where all trees and vegetation had been blown away. Obviously, some people suffered more than others, but everyone we met seemed genuinely relieved to be resuming their old routines. Before the storm, Divetechs two boats had been tied to the dock at the Yacht Club. After the storm, they were found, relatively intact, in the mangrove trees about a quarter mile from the water (along with the dock they had been tied to). The Divetech staff had spent the post-storm months repairing the boats and the dive shops, and everyone was ready to get back to diving.
On the afternoon of our arrival, we had hoped to do a shore dive from the Cobalt Coast pier but, the wind had been blowing hard from the Northeast and the breakers were pounding the end of the dock. Alas, the wind persisted throughout our stay, but there were several days when shore diving was OK from the CC pier (try the scooters if you want to go all the way out to the deep wall). Shore dives were doable most days at Turtle Reef, although the seas were pretty choppy there too.
The typical dive day starts with breakfast at 6:45 (I know , but you get used to it). Dive starts at 7:45. Most days we were driven by minibus to the West Bay boat landing where we boarded the boats for the short run to the sites along the West and Northwest walls. On several days, we were able to board the boats at Cobalt Coast, but this was dicey due to the choppy seas and shallow bottom. We were able to dive some of the great sites on the North Wall (notably Ghost Mountain, a mind-blower) but the seas were high and the current strong. Most divers preferred the easier conditions on the still-spectacular W/NW sites. The payoff for the early start is that they plan for two sixty-minute dives with an intervening surface interval of 45 minutes. If you dont have a computer, Divetech will loan you one for free. As long as you had enough air (or other gas of choice) you could generally do the first dive to 100+ feet yet get in the full 60 minutes by finishing the dive on top at about 40 feet. Second dives were in the 50-60 foot range and were beautiful and were easily within a 60 minute no-deco profile. After unloading at the public dock we were driven back to the resort, usually by about 11:45.
I had expected that the reefs would have sustained more storm damage than I actually saw. At the shallower depths there was some damage to the corals and sponges, and there often seemed to be a dusting of sand on the shallow structures. Below about 40 feet, though, I noticed little damage. The DMs said that on many of the swim-thru dives (such as Trinity Caves, Big Tunnels, Little Tunnels and Round Rock) the tunnels had actually been enlarged by the displacement of sand and were more accessible to divers. The most startling sight on the reef was the detritus that must have blown off the island during the storm. Flower pots, a lampshade, a bright orange traffic cone, various articles of clothing, items of lawn furniture and an upholstered sofa cushion. Divers were encouraged to help clean up if so inclined.
Divetech put two DMs in the water on every dive, and you were welcome to follow them or do your own thing. Water temperature was consistently 82F (84 at Stingray City). Visibility averaged 70-80ft. There was abundant fish life, and on many dives I could have logged 60+ species using the REEF method. Turtles and eels were spotted on almost every dive. Groupers, snappers, tarpon and every kind of parrot, angel and filefish. Schools of jack and chub and parades of Creole wrasse. At the Turtle Reef shore dive, I must have seen 15 lobsters.
Meanwhile, back at Cobalt Coast , this place has the nicest accommodations weve ever encountered at a serious dive resort. The rooms are large with European-style furniture and appointments, cable TV, DVD, phone, fridge, coffee maker, electronic safe, etc. (Wireless internet is available in the bar/restaurant area, but BYOC). Bathrooms were spacious with great showers and big thick bath towels. Also blow-dryer and ironing board for that high-maintenance diver! Breakfast is included in the room rate. When there are many divers in the house, breakfast is served as a buffet beginning at 6:45.Fruit, juices, eggs, bacon, sausages, potatoes, toast, French toast or pancakes, yoghurt, cereals, etc. On days with fewer divers, breakfast is served a la carte.
We chose the all-inclusive meal plan which includes lunch and dinner and all tips and taxes. Unless you rent a car or plan to spend a lot of time and money on taxis, this is your best bet as there really are no restaurant alternatives nearby and the prices are very high. Unlike many AI plans, lunch and dinner are not served as buffet or family-style meals. You can show up when you want and you order from the menu, the same menu offered to the public. Lunch is a choice among salads, sandwiches, pastas, platters, etc. Dinner includes choice of starter, entrée and dessert. There are specials offered every day and the chef is very good. A few items (e.g. lobster or strip steak) have a small surcharge. Bar charges are not included and, like everywhere in the Caymans, they are on the expensive side.
Arie, the founder and owner of Cobalt Coast, is a Dutch ex-pat with many years experience in the hospitality industry. You will see Arie at 6:45 helping to set out the breakfast and hes still there after dinner to wish you goodnight. Hes a true, old-fashioned host and, along with Dora and the rest of the CC staff, they make you feel at home. Nancy and the whole crew at Divetech are equally solicitous (and these guys are also into deep air, technical, trimix, rebreather, etc., in case youre looking for something different). Well certainly be going back.
