Good shots in murky water

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I've thought about the tripod shot inside of caverns. Leave the shutter as wide open as I could with my 5060 and swim around with a fixed output SeaLife strobe firing it around different rock formations. Seems like it would get me some pretty interesting shots once I figured out all the settings - probably take a few dives while running under 1/3rd airsource rules :D LOL

If anyone has done similar, I'd like to see results from another Pro-sumer PnS.
 
love to see those......I thought about getting my aquatica fitted with a tirpod thread and buying a cheapo tripod to try it......have you seen Lee Bishops work? Awesome (i hate that word!) shots......it's online somewhere and well worth a gander
 
Hmm... would be interesting, especially with the dive light that you'd use to move around to see.. errr unless you're just behind it and pointing the strobe in different areas... that'd be kewl..
I've seen an accidental photo of a fish, but some other dive lite shining on the background about 4-6 feet behind and off to the side.. really looked kewl...
Would take two to do it...

Heheh.. geeze.. in a cave, wandering around with all the silt?? good luck, it should look great... have to leave it open for a 30+second shot??
 
It would like photographing fireworks. You put the f-stop down to like 8 or even 16 and then you get almost infinite field, but reduce the overexposure chances. The only issue is...how many housings/cameras have cable/remote hookups to let you open the shutter and trip the flash repeatidly? I know the Nikonos has the manual shutter where you can hold it open. I guess you could rig it with some sort of bracket to hold the shutter release down...

You would have to have a stable platform like a monopod embedded in the bottom. A cable release removes the vibration of you pushing the button from the picture. No way you could float there and hold the button down without introducing shake.
 
fpoole:
Heheh.. geeze.. in a cave, wandering around with all the silt?? good luck, it should look great... have to leave it open for a 30+second shot??

I don't do the cave thing yet, but there are some caverns somewhat local to me(within 2hours) that don't silt up - ie, sand/gravel bottoms. My 5060s longest shutter duration is 15sec I believe, unless I find a way to hold the button down manually - which will keep the shutter open for as long as I want(not sure how I'd keep it still for that though).

I'd have to work it with atleast 2-3 people, or confine myself to a smaller area. It'll take alot of trial and error to get anything I'd imagine...
 
I don't either, caves, but if you what you are indicating with the 15 sec display, then the small tripod with weight might work well... then just either us a dive lite or strobe to fire in different directions?? say, using the face of an up right clock, shoot at 9 - 12 - 5 (5= for a different broken angle) with you just above the camera or floating above, but out of site... heheh.. like sunrays.

I'm going out this weekend - tomorrow - am taking the 5050 with tripod and will try a few "T-shots (Tripod)" and use a flash lite or something. Won't look like much, disclaimer here, but will get a better idea of what's needed... heheh.. good discussion, should probable start a new theread...
Think I will so as not to Clutter up the "Murky Water" theread...

Stay tuned eh?? heheh... gawd, what am I getting into ... LOL...
 
if using a flash light you will need a HID or LED type which produce a white 5500 degree light. regular lights will produce a warmer ( yellow ) undesirable light.

regarding the strobe question, Nikonos strobes such as the SB 105 and SB 104 can be set manually 1/16, 1/4, full, and triggered by using the "test" feature. I am not familiar with the consumer cameras but my Digital SLR ( Fuji S2 )can be set for long exposure times.
 
one more note, David Douiblet uses high intensity flood lights to illuminate caverns, no tripod required
 
I have access to a SeaLife fixed output strobe, it has a 'test' feature that I will use. I figure if I can swim around and get 2 shots off with the external strobe and someone else swims around and gets 1-2 shots of with the internal strobe from the SeaLife camera itself, I may be able to get enough light on some rock formation to make a somewhat desirable picture. I have a UK C8 eLED as well, if it'll put off enough light - I'm not against using it too :D

Then again, maybe not :)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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