mikerault
Contributor
What are the best techniques for getting good shots in sub-optimal conditions, i.e. low viz due to algea, silt or both? This would be for non-moving objects such as wrecks or reefs.
Good shots in murky water
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Mike, you don't say what the vis is. For me, low vis is about 10-20'. Anything less than that and I won't bother with a camera unless it's macro.
>Have a lens system that lets you have a field of view equivalent to at least a 20mm on a film camera.
>Get close. Real close.
>Get strobe arms that let you place your strobe at least 30" away from the center of the dome.
>Strobe at as low of power as you can get away with.
>Use the visibility falloff as a way to frame your subject.
Good luck!
All the best, James
>Have a lens system that lets you have a field of view equivalent to at least a 20mm on a film camera.
>Get close. Real close.
>Get strobe arms that let you place your strobe at least 30" away from the center of the dome.
>Strobe at as low of power as you can get away with.
>Use the visibility falloff as a way to frame your subject.
Good luck!
All the best, James
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looks like you have a Sealife digital in your avatar image
if so, for wide angle, get the wide angle lens, and the new flash link ( optical cable ) as well as many of the strobe arm extensions the cable will allow you to use. a strobe diffuser will be helpful as well, either the sealife one or make one yourself with plastic from a 1 Gal milk jug or try using a white handkerchief and a rubber band. get the strobe head as far from the lens as possible and point the strobes straight out or even a tad cockeyed. fire off some test shots to dial it in then go for the keepers.
otherwise, the economical approach is get the macro kit and just concentrate on shooting that. the flash link and diffuser will be quite helpful there as well.
also sealife just released a digital strobe which is adjustable ( at last ) and will work with any pre flash combination. not as nice as Inon or Sea and Sea but a lot less $$
if so, for wide angle, get the wide angle lens, and the new flash link ( optical cable ) as well as many of the strobe arm extensions the cable will allow you to use. a strobe diffuser will be helpful as well, either the sealife one or make one yourself with plastic from a 1 Gal milk jug or try using a white handkerchief and a rubber band. get the strobe head as far from the lens as possible and point the strobes straight out or even a tad cockeyed. fire off some test shots to dial it in then go for the keepers.
otherwise, the economical approach is get the macro kit and just concentrate on shooting that. the flash link and diffuser will be quite helpful there as well.
also sealife just released a digital strobe which is adjustable ( at last ) and will work with any pre flash combination. not as nice as Inon or Sea and Sea but a lot less $$
OP
mikerault
Contributor
Unfortunately macro won't do. The size of object I expect to attempt to shoot is several feet in length, height and width. Would putting the camera on a stable mount, and shooting wideopen then using the flash like you would in a large cave (moving it around, flashing at given intervals) help? I will probably be using a Nikonos IVa rather than the Motormarine.
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How about using faster film and shooting natural light. I have some great images of wrecks shot using Fuji NPC 160 ( negative ). good contrast!
Bob3
Contributor
We used to use a big clear water box for inspection work in the Mississippi River, just how big are you talking about & how much hassle are you willing to put up with?
OP
mikerault
Contributor
Afraid an inspection box isn't going to do it here. We are talking something 20-30 foot wide, 60-100 feet long, connical in cross section with no smooth sides...
fpoole
Contributor
yah,
I use natural light (turn off the flash to eliminate backscatter) and then whatever f-stop and speed I can get away with...
Typically it's f-1.8 (oly 4040) an 1/30-40-50th speed..
You have limited depth of field and possible blurring, but in the over all shot, it still might be usable... I've found that truning OFF the strobes is the key. And depending upon your point of view, they can be "Pushed" in Photoshop - levels etc...
Hope that helps..
I use natural light (turn off the flash to eliminate backscatter) and then whatever f-stop and speed I can get away with...
Typically it's f-1.8 (oly 4040) an 1/30-40-50th speed..
You have limited depth of field and possible blurring, but in the over all shot, it still might be usable... I've found that truning OFF the strobes is the key. And depending upon your point of view, they can be "Pushed" in Photoshop - levels etc...
Hope that helps..
chippy
Contributor
You could always use a tripod too, as mad as it may sound!! (I'd be tempted to avoid flash in really bad viz, it has a habit of making a tough job even tougher!)
Use a wide angle lens and get as close as possible!
Use a wide angle lens and get as close as possible!
fpoole
Contributor
I tried that, tripod, those little plastic ones you use for camping/backpacking.
Got a little 1lb shot wieght, plastic-tied it and gave it a shot...
It was a littel too much to try to do with an anxious dive buddy, but will try again when have a little more time... I'm guessing it would come out OK, but with fish blurr?? motion??? might even be interesting as it only takes a drop down to about1/10th to 1/30th sec to make it happen....
Will post some soon...
Got a little 1lb shot wieght, plastic-tied it and gave it a shot...
It was a littel too much to try to do with an anxious dive buddy, but will try again when have a little more time... I'm guessing it would come out OK, but with fish blurr?? motion??? might even be interesting as it only takes a drop down to about1/10th to 1/30th sec to make it happen....
Will post some soon...
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