For beginners - Point and shoot flash

[Jason B]

Okay, so I'm eating dinner and I realize that my last post probably did nothing but confuse. It sounds like a faster shutter speed is all that is needed to solve the problem so let me explain a little more. If the shutter has opened and is closing and the strobe has not yet fired, a partial exposure will result because half the film plane had already been exposed before the flash even fired. The word sync pretty much sums it up. You want the strobe to fire when the shutter is open...you want them in sync. Now, with my previous post about the ghost image...if you have a nikonos...1/90 is the fastest sync speed....doesn't mean it can't take pictures at higher shutter speeds, the strobe just won't fire at the correct time to properly expose the entire film plane.

 

[Chris Bangs]

Actually, A strobe does not change intensity with the different "power" settings, What changes is the duration of the flash, therefore increasing or decreasing the time the image is exposed to the flash output.

Cat keeper, I will work on answering you questions asap, just got back from the mountain, not to mention we have a little volcano issue developing very near where I live

 

[Chris Bangs]

As far as I know, A nikonos V will default to 1/90 if set on a higher shutter speed. The Calypso, Nikonos II, and III will in fack fire out of sync. what you will get is eithier a shot that is only partially exposed (upper frlame exposed to flash, lower frame not) or if a very fast shutter speed is used very little of the frame will be exposed to the flash output

 

[Chris Bangs]

Regarding the ghost image, if using large aperture settings and slower shutter speeds on moving subjects or due to camera movement, it is quite possible for the natural light exposure to affect the image. you get a nice sharp flash exposure with a bit of motion blur "ghosted" in as well.

 

[the_cat_keeper]

Actually, A strobe does not change intensity with the different "power" settings, What changes is the duration of the flash, therefore increasing or decreasing the time the image is exposed to the flash output.

Cat keeper, I will work on answering you questions asap, just got back from the mountain, not to mention we have a little volcano issue developing very near where I live

No problem, take your time... really appreciating all the responses all of you took time to answer!

 

[the_cat_keeper]

Shutter speed is how long the camera stays open to expose itself to the image.

So the shutter (curtain?) on the camera always open at the same speed? So does a shutter speed of 1/125 mean

(1) it takes 1/125sec for the shutter to move from being fully open to fully closed? Or
(2) is it 1/125sec for the shutter to move from a closed position to an open position to fully closed position?

 

[the_cat_keeper]

Actually, A strobe does not change intensity with the different "power" settings, What changes is the duration of the flash, therefore increasing or decreasing the time the image is exposed to the flash output.

the longer duration allows the flash to reach a further object... is this how it works?

 

[Chris Bangs]

yes , The longer duration will increase the amount of light that is reflected back to your camera off the subject. It will increase the exposure on anything within the strobes max range. Distance is a very important factor in determining strobe exposure, but if you subject is more than 2.5 meters/8 ft away very little light will reach the subject, therefore shoot distant subjects using natural light only

 

[Chris Bangs]

2) is it 1/125sec for the shutter to move from a closed position to an open position to fully closed position?

this is the correct answer on film cameras and SLR digital as well. No SLR digital cameras do not have a mechanical shutter, so I would guess that the shutter speed is actually how long the sensor is activated to capture the image.

 

[Chris Bangs]

I will start a new topic to discuss Cat Keepers strobe positioning question