Flashlight instead of strobe?

[farsidefan1]

On a recent trip I was quite annoyed by a photographer who tended to hog cool sights by constantly adjusting the strobes, take shot. repeat ad nauseum while everyone else waited for their turn. I, meanwhile flooded my old mini reefmaster. Soooo, I am going to get a more serious camera, one that can also shoot in RAW format bugt I DON'T want to become a photographer terrorist. My photos are just to remember trips - used by me as screensavers but I want as good of shots as possible. I don't really want some big elkhorn rig to drag around. One of th ejoys of my mini was that I just left it in my bcd pocket till I saw something I wanted to record for posterity .

My question is this, could I use a wide beam flashlight instead of strobes? If I held it away from the camera it seems to solve some of the backscatter issues and I don't need the bulk for the entire dive. So hold flashlight in one hand camera in other then after shot put away flashlight. Seems simple but is it totally delusional?

 

[beasleym]

A strobe is a very intense, short burst of light at the right color temperature. You can prove that at home in a dark room with a flashlight and a regular camera; you won't be impressed. I admit it's a bit awkward with the handle and arm for the flash, but it really works better.

The fact that you are cognizant of this type of behavior is good and having a good setup usually means one shot works most of the time. That means quality equipment, but it doesn't mean you have to have really expensive equipment. I recently dove with a person on his first trip with a Canon S95 with a Sealife strobe. Did better than me with my 5-year old equipment so I will be upgrading

 

[flareside]

A few of things to remember about using a flashlight. First, one that throws a wide beam doesn't throw a strong beam as it is disbursing a limited amount of light over a much broader area. Second, the quality and uniformity of the beam is a function of the quality of the flashlight and ones that do both well generally cost big bucks. Finally, lights scare off critters. They are hanging out in the dark for a reason. A flash gives you the element of surprise.

If you want to stay with a pocketable camera, the diffusers that come with most housings do a very good job for close up photography. Essentially to stay pocketable, you will be limited to ambient light photos or moderate close-ups.

If you are willing to go beyond pocketable but are wanting to stay minimalist, I would suggest adding an Inon S2000 with a flex arm attachment and a small base tray to the housing. The flex attachment will allow quick and easy adjustment to the light. The S2000 is a relatively powerful mid-range strobe that will extend your range significantly over the internal flash and the flex arm will allow you to get it far enough away to prevent the backscatter.

As far as becoming "that guy", as long as you recognize what is truly wrong about that guy, you probably don't need to worry about becoming him.

 

[farsidefan1]

Thanks, good information, by the way, it was a girl. That is the fact that saved her from more wrath and perhaps physical harm ;0

 

[Ardy]

It also depends on where you dive. If you dive in clear water mostly then it might work but I have never tried it. If it is average or poor viz you will have no chance. Why not buy a cheap manual strobe like a Intova ISS 4000? http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/strobes-lighting/351650-intova-iss-4000-a.html

Still this kills the idea of keeping in the pocket which is not an insignificant advantage. I think you may have to put up with the inbuilt flash until the next upgrade hits you. U/W photography is like that it can sneak up on you and the next thing you know you are carrying a NikCan DSLR and a Metal housing with dual strobes.

 

[Jax]

Thanks, good information, by the way, it was a girl. That is the fact that saved her from more wrath and perhaps physical harm ;0

Just because it's a girl doesn't mean she should escape righteous anger. No excuse for being a 'view' hog.

 

[Thalassamania]

Back in the bad old days of film I experimented with using a movie light for still photography. The problem was that even with a really bright, color balanced, movie light I was not able to take pictures at a fast enough shutter speed, not enough light.

 

[farsidefan1]

Back in the bad old days of film I experimented with using a movie light for still photography. The problem was that even with a really bright, color balanced, movie light I was not able to take pictures at a fast enough shutter speed, not enough light.

Thanks thalssamania, sadly that makes a lot of sense. I think I'll make do and if the madness hits me ... Nikon look out

 

[Packhorse]

I built an incredibly powerful light for still shots. 4000+ lumen. Thats like 3 21w HID''s

Its great for macros but thats about it.
Ring of light

 

[Searcaigh]

Back in the bad old days of film I experimented with using a movie light for still photography. The problem was that even with a really bright, color balanced, movie light I was not able to take pictures at a fast enough shutter speed, not enough light.

Film required tons of light, especially shooting Fuji Velvia (that I rated at ISO40 instead of 50). Many of the new P & S cameras can shoot in very low light, the quality is not going to be as good, but everyone to their own.

Personally I drag my Elk like structure with me, sometimes two depending on the dive.