Budget strobe for TG-5 + Seafrogs

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I am talking about Olympus slr/mirrorless specifically. In order to sync high speed shutter
You have to be very very careful with the terms here. What you're referring to here is specifically called High Speed Sync, or HSS, at it is used to sync strobes with cameras above their normal strobe sync speed. Most (but not all) interchangeable lens cameras use what is called a focal plane shutter, which consists of a pair of curtains (on older cameras, it used to be literally a pair of black fabric curtains; nowadays it's lightweight solid blades). When you take a shot, first curtain moves out of the way, exposing the sensor, and when the desired exposure time is finished, the second curtain moves in, cutting off the light. If you're shooting with flash, the flash fires in the interval when both curtains are open. However, because their movement is not instantaneous, if you set your exposure speed faster than a certain model-dependent value, the second curtain will start to close before the first curtain is fully open, creating a strip of light that moves across the sensor - in this mode, the entire sensor is never fully exposed at the same time, so if you fire a flash, part of the image will be dark. To overcome this, you can (but not necessarily want to) use the HSS mode, in which the flash fires a series of high-speed (typically between 10kHz and 40kHz) pulses, creating, effectively, a longer pulse of light that is active while the exposure strip races across the sensor. This allows you to overcome the limitation of normal sync speed, but severely limits the strobe's output power - I can get roughly the same flash exposure using a full dump on my strobes with my lens at f/22 in regular mode, or f/8 in high-speed sync. It is not exclusive to Olympus RC mode, but it does have fairly limited support among underwater strobes - notably, Retra flashes do it with optical triggering (which requires a compatible trigger - it won't work off a camera's pop-up flash or a basic trigger), while Seacam and OneUW do it with electronic sync.

Note that this is very distinct from simply syncing at arbitrary speeds, which is something afforded by cameras with a lens-plane, or leaf shutter - this is typically fixed-lens cameras, although some interchangeable-lens systems also use this type of shutter. Instead of a pair of curtains installed next to the sensor, these cameras use a small leaf shutter installed in the lens, near the entrance pupil, where its range of motion is minimal. This lets them open and close the shutter at extremely high speeds, unattainable by curtain shutters, and thus most compacts can sync with normal strobes (non-HSS) at speeds such as 1/2,000s or 1/4,000s. However, since a full dump of a strobe takes significantly longer than that, it also limits the actual power of a strobe available for a shot.

Finally, there's the Sony's global shutter available in their A9 III camera - this is no shutter at all, but rather the ability to read the entire sensor out simultaneously, instead of line-by-line as is normal in digital cameras. This lets you sync with strobes at absolutely arbitrary shutter speeds, all the way to 1/80,000s, but with the same caveats as leaf shutters.
 
You have to be very very careful with the terms here. What you're referring to here is specifically called High Speed Sync, or HSS, at it is used to sync strobes with cameras above their normal strobe sync speed. Most (but not all) interchangeable lens cameras use what is called a focal plane shutter, which consists of a pair of curtains (on older cameras, it used to be literally a pair of black fabric curtains; nowadays it's lightweight solid blades). When you take a shot, first curtain moves out of the way, exposing the sensor, and when the desired exposure time is finished, the second curtain moves in, cutting off the light. If you're shooting with flash, the flash fires in the interval when both curtains are open. However, because their movement is not instantaneous, if you set your exposure speed faster than a certain model-dependent value, the second curtain will start to close before the first curtain is fully open, creating a strip of light that moves across the sensor - in this mode, the entire sensor is never fully exposed at the same time, so if you fire a flash, part of the image will be dark. To overcome this, you can (but not necessarily want to) use the HSS mode, in which the flash fires a series of high-speed (typically between 10kHz and 40kHz) pulses, creating, effectively, a longer pulse of light that is active while the exposure strip races across the sensor. This allows you to overcome the limitation of normal sync speed, but severely limits the strobe's output power - I can get roughly the same flash exposure using a full dump on my strobes with my lens at f/22 in regular mode, or f/8 in high-speed sync. It is not exclusive to Olympus RC mode, but it does have fairly limited support among underwater strobes - notably, Retra flashes do it with optical triggering (which requires a compatible trigger - it won't work off a camera's pop-up flash or a basic trigger), while Seacam and OneUW do it with electronic sync.

Note that this is very distinct from simply syncing at arbitrary speeds, which is something afforded by cameras with a lens-plane, or leaf shutter - this is typically fixed-lens cameras, although some interchangeable-lens systems also use this type of shutter. Instead of a pair of curtains installed next to the sensor, these cameras use a small leaf shutter installed in the lens, near the entrance pupil, where its range of motion is minimal. This lets them open and close the shutter at extremely high speeds, unattainable by curtain shutters, and thus most compacts can sync with normal strobes (non-HSS) at speeds such as 1/2,000s or 1/4,000s. However, since a full dump of a strobe takes significantly longer than that, it also limits the actual power of a strobe available for a shot.

Finally, there's the Sony's global shutter available in their A9 III camera - this is no shutter at all, but rather the ability to read the entire sensor out simultaneously, instead of line-by-line as is normal in digital cameras. This lets you sync with strobes at absolutely arbitrary shutter speeds, all the way to 1/80,000s, but with the same caveats as leaf shutters.
Sorry, too long and not so relevant and a ChatGPT style response. I am pretty sure @cerich understood. If I give a high shutter speed in conjunction of sync, I do mean high speed sync. He rightfully pointed that there are strobes labeled as rc, and my response is, rc without high speed sync is a bit pointless as it does not bring much more to the user.
 
Sorry, too long and not so relevant and a ChatGPT style response. I am pretty sure @cerich understood. If I give a high shutter speed in conjunction of sync, I do mean high speed sync. He rightfully pointed that there are strobes labeled as rc, and my response is, rc without high speed sync is a bit pointless as it does not bring much more to the user.
The OP has referenced a TG-5 - this is a leaf shutter camera, which does not suffer from the limitations of focal plane shutters, and can sync at any speed without HSS. The OP could use, say, a YS-D3 Duo in RC TTL mode (if their budget would stretch that far, which, to be fair, is a mighty stretch) and never notice its lack of HSS support.

The advantages of RC mode include - if you believe Olympus marketing's hype - more accurate TTL control, not just high-speed sync, which, as you've noted, may or may not be present in a strobe with RC support, nor is RC support a requirement for supporting HSS.
 
I am talking about Olympus slr/mirrorless specifically. In order to sync high speed shutter, you need both camera and strobe supporting same rc protocol, in the case of Oly, it’s UFL-2. I think there were newer models “supporting” rc mode but not being able to sync in high speeds. The way I see is only advantage of rc is to sync in high speeds, take that out, in my view it does not support rc.
some of the strobes do HSS, some just a bit more (UFL3 does 1/200 vs 1/160 with non RC strobes if I recall). The AOI does HSS in RC as does the Backscatter MF2 (made by AOI, but not as powerful and not a semi wide solution solo.. at all)

regardless, disagree that is only advantage ,and RC TTL is much better than S TTL from non RC TTL strobes and gets a higher "keeper rate" for exposure (if not by composition etc as we are talking underwater photography after all.. LOL). There are times that TTL is good underwater, i know that is an eternal debate however...

Baraglot is correct regards HSS and leaf shutter
 
some of the strobes do HSS, some just a bit more (UFL3 does 1/200 vs 1/160 with non RC strobes if I recall). The AOI does HSS in RC as does the Backscatter MF2 (made by AOI, but not as powerful and not a semi wide solution solo.. at all)

regardless, disagree that is only advantage ,and RC TTL is much better than S TTL from non RC TTL strobes and gets a higher "keeper rate" for exposure (if not by composition etc as we are talking underwater photography after all.. LOL). There are times that TTL is good underwater, i know that is an eternal debate however...

Baraglot is correct regards HSS and leaf shutter
Especially with leaf shutter, I do not see any specific need to pick rc over any other type. Maybe if you want to control the strobe settings over the camera menu, but that is not so practical anyway. And your argument is subjective keeper rate.
 
Is this discussion way off topic, since one cannot set the shutter speed on the TG series?
 
Especially with leaf shutter, I do not see any specific need to pick rc over any other type. Maybe if you want to control the strobe settings over the camera menu, but that is not so practical anyway. And your argument is subjective keeper rate.
naw, RC TTL is awesome withe TG and macro for most TG users
 
Is this discussion way off topic, since one cannot set the shutter speed on the TG series?
Yes and no, strobes outlives many cameras. My Inons were used with Canon, Nikon and Oly and once I got rental Sony and it was plug and play with that as well. Rc will not be as versatile. And most people move onto slr/mirrorless sooner or later so sync speed will become relevant in the future. We are giving purchase advice, so imo, it is relevant.
 
Why would you need HSS under water? In air, you might need it maybe for fill flash for a subject in a bright lit desert... or to capture multipleexposures of a flying bird in a single picture. But for normal stuff, I do not see the point of HSS. And UW, everything is much slower. I would say it is much better to freeze the exposure via a more powerful flash (meaning not-HSS flash), and it is not like your background will be too bright at 1/200 and ISO 100 10 meters below... Even when you point it towards the sun, you will not try to expose sun correctly.

Anyway, so I can try to get any "modern" (??) Inon or Sea and Sea used, which would fit my budget and which is at least manual, is that so?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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