Flash rust in O2 bottles

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Simple Green leaves residue, especially when it is in hot mixes (e.g. used in ultrasonic cleaners). There will be a slight green tint, barely noticeable, that you'll have to flush out multiple times. Blue Gold does not leave that tint. Also, it has rust inhibitors and is certified for O2 high-pressure component cleaning. Finally, it smells a lot better than Simple Green.

If you do O2 cleaning and have steel and aluminum tanks, going with Blue Gold is easier. If you have only aluminum tanks, Simple Green and lots of proper rinsing will do.
 
Crystal (unscented) Simple Green is what I use. Less expensive than Blue Gold. Nearly all my tanks are steel. No residue I have ever been able to detect. I do a distilled water rinse for tanks and regs.

 
Crystal Simple Green does not have rust inhibitor to my best knowledge. You may get away with it, but why not get a better option. You dilute Blue Gold 2-4% based on the application; it is tested and certified for oxygen equipment... But you do you.
 
Crystal simple green is not O2 rated. Extreme is.


I've always used 2-4% Blue Gold. Works great, rust inhibitor. A gallon has lasted me for years. My local dive shop is a DOT hydro tester, they use it.
 
Crystal Simple Green does not have rust inhibitor to my best knowledge. You may get away with it, but why not get a better option. You dilute Blue Gold 2-4% based on the application; it is tested and certified for oxygen equipment... But you do you.

You read far too much into what I wrote. I was only addressing the residue issue. So here's the whole story:

- First, I tumble the tank if it's just back from hydro to remove the flash rust.
- Then, I use Crystal Simple Green diluted with distilled water (not sure why anyone would think I used it uncut!).
- Next are distilled water rinses until the water coming out passes the glass jar bubble test, indicating that any residual cleaner is down to a few PPM or less.
- Next, I use a diluted (as specified) O2-compatible rust inhibitor (from Global, I think, but I'm not going out to check right now).
- There's another short (8 seconds?) rinse specified by the rust inhibitor manufacturer.
- Then I dry the tank with breathing air and put the (newly serviced, of course) valve in immediately to prevent condensation.
- Last, without delay, I put several hundred PSI in it.

I don't think I'm "getting away" with anything. It was how I was trained to clean tanks. When I take them apart for the next VIP or hydro, they are always pristine inside.

I'm willing to hear why you think Blue Gold is better in practice. I'm always interested in learning if anyone has a better way. Are you a certified O2 tech? It was part of one of my certs (though I can't recall which at the moment--probably advanced gas blender).
 
I haven't tumbled a tank with media in decades. Phosphoric acid then a swish with simple green is the bees knees for steel cylinders. Rinse with the hottest water available and dry with copious amounts of scuba gas.
 
You read far too much into what I wrote. I was only addressing the residue issue. So here's the whole story:
This thread started with a question about rust. The answer is "use rust inhibitor," which you already do.

However, it doesn't appear you're using an agent approved for oxygen use. Is that ok? Only you can answer what's right for you. Note, over the years the make up of the original Simple Green changed due to environmental issues. If you want to stay safe, check out BlueGold or Extreme Simple Green.
 
This thread started with a question about rust. The answer is "use rust inhibitor," which you already do.

However, it doesn't appear you're using an agent approved for oxygen use. Is that ok? Only you can answer what's right for you. Note, over the years the make up of the original Simple Green changed due to environmental issues. If you want to stay safe, check out BlueGold or Extreme Simple Green.

However the thread started, it was you who raised the question.

I have never used original Simple Green to clean tanks, and would not. I use Crystal Simple Green, a formulation with no scent. It's just a detergent to remove hydrocarbons, notably oils. The bubble test reduces the residual to a single digit PPM (3 or 5, I don't recall) in the water that is drained. Feel free to continue to suggest improvements, but I'm comfortable with what I'm doing and, again, it was how we were trained. It's possible you were trained differently (shrug), assuming you were trained. Different agencies, different times, different standards.

Also, it is certainly possible that they changed the formulation of CSG, but I bought two gallons of it some time ago and it might well be a lifetime supply at the rate I use it. I also have the Global cleaner, and the labeling doesn't say it's "approved for oxygen use" either. I use them interchanageably, more or less, for tanks and regs, but usually use the CSG because it's less expensive (or was).

Who says the cleaner you are using is "approved for oxygen use"? The manufacturer or an independent testing body of some sort? I would actually be surprised that, absent independent testing, anyone would make that claim without qualification. I'd expect something more like "intended for oxygen cleaning" or some such to avoid liability when someone used it incorrectly and got blown up.

I'm a partial pressure blender, and for nitrox I put in O2 first (for trimix, second). I've never had a problem with a mix to date. But if I'm doing it demonstrably wrong I want to know. Stuff does change, including training and procedural standards, and it's been quite some time since I took the classes.
 
I have never used original Simple Green to clean tanks, and would not. I use Crystal Simple Green

Who says the cleaner you are using is "approved for oxygen use"? The manufacturer or an independent testing body of some sort?


Crystal simple green is not O2 rated. The manufacturer of the product states such. See previous link.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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