Fisheye FIX for the S90

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Could I impose upon you to take a photo of the hot shoe adapter in place, so I can see the manner in which it impairs access to the buttons?

Here are two pictures. One showing the elevation of the shoe adapter (almost enough to get your finger under, but not quite.) The other is a downward shot to see how it partially covers the buttons.

The buttons are not completely blocked and they can be pushed with bare hands underwater. I have not tried pushing them with DUI zip gloves yet, but I can image it is very difficult.

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Gack, that's horrible. That's one thing I was seriously looking forward to... getting rid of the damn triple clamp I'm using now.

When you breakdown and get the ULCS setup, you can get the neck ball adapter. It's $30 and does not move when you loosen the ball joint to move your arms. My earlier photos of my rig show it in place.
 
When you breakdown and get the ULCS setup, you can get the neck ball adapter. It's $30 and does not move when you loosen the ball joint to move your arms. My earlier photos of my rig show it in place.

Yeah, I considered going that route, and might eventually.

Looking at your second photo, I also wonder if that metal ring (the source of the problem, I assume) could be ground down on the side by the buttons to clear the path a bit more?

I'd like to find something that lets me use the hotshoe mount as intended, if possible, even if that means going with a part other than the ULCS. For instance, the Inon Show Base or the Fisheye YS Rotary Hotshoe Base... I wonder how they would work out?

Inon Shoe Base [ino.356] - $40.00 : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros

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Fisheye YS Rotary Hotshoe Base [fix.ysrb2.s] - $39.00 : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros

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That is what I have.

Well, OK, could you machine the back of that washer off on a belt sander? Finish it neatly with a file. So that it does not overlap the buttons?

N
 
Yes, the washer is the issue. Yes, it could be sanded down. If you do sand it down, plan on leaving it mounted on the camera. The washer spins freely when not attached to the camera. This means that you will need to pay attention to its alignment each time you put it on the housing.

As for the other two options, perhaps Ryan could check them out for us.
 
Yes, the washer is the issue. Yes, it could be sanded down. If you do sand it down, plan on leaving it mounted on the camera. The washer spins freely when not attached to the camera. This means that you will need to pay attention to its alignment each time you put it on the housing.

As for the other two options, perhaps Ryan could check them out for us.

Thanks for the info.

I probably plan to mount my Sekonic Marine II meter there instead of a focus light but I had planed to use the ball mount that I think you have for that purpose. It looks like, without having the thing in my hand, that instead of putting a flat on the washer that a smaller washer could be used. The load bearing area is only that which contacts the shoe and it appears the washer is larger than the shoe and therefore larger than required for it's job. (?)

Actually for my meter one of the other swivel adapters might be better that Compudude linked to.
N
 
Hi,I am going to buy a wide angle lense and some macro lenses for the FIX housing,The options i am going for is the Inon M67 thread or the 28AD version,Problem being is i think the threads on the M67 are to fine somtimes difficult to thread underwater the ad mount is much easier but the macro on the AD is 165AD with the 28AD adapter in which you need to zoom in because of vignating,Does anybody have macro pictures taken with the 165AD with the 28AD adapter just to see home much you have to zoom in,Only because when you zoom in a little you lose the fast f2.

boyd
 
My housing just arrived today along with the FIX Rotary Hotshoe Base that I intend to use with a spotting light. It looks like it will work fine as far as getting at the top buttons. It it is close, but I'm able to press the buttons even with my 5mm gloves on. Not sure when I'll get it underwater to find out how it all works (although I can't wait!). I hoped to get in this weekend, but I've caught a cold and the weather is supposed to get nasty all next week.
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Hi,I am going to buy a wide angle lense and some macro lenses for the FIX housing,The options i am going for is the Inon M67 thread or the 28AD version,Problem being is i think the threads on the M67 are to fine somtimes difficult to thread underwater the ad mount is much easier but the macro on the AD is 165AD with the 28AD adapter in which you need to zoom in because of vignating,Does anybody have macro pictures taken with the 165AD with the 28AD adapter just to see home much you have to zoom in,Only because when you zoom in a little you lose the fast f2.

boyd

I have yet to use a macro lens where you don't have to zoom in at least a bump or two. AFAIK, it comes with the territory... you're putting a long tube in front of the lens, after all.

Bayonet is definitely preferably to threaded connections, if you want to put it on and take it off throughout the dive. (I do, too)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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