Drysuit Questions

[diverbug]

I'm getting back into local (coldwater) diving but have decided I'm too wimpy to go back in a wetsuit.

What types of things should I look for in a drysuit? How will I go about deciding on the right one for me?

I've been diving for 12 years, but haven't in coldwater diving in 8 or so (I know, I know - pathetic). I'm female, diving in the Pacific Northwest - I don't know what other info is important in making this decision.

Thanks!

 

[Warren_L]

I went through the same process just recently, but it really depends on what type of diving you plan on doing and what you're comfortable with. This may be of help to you:

http://www.scubaboard.com/t39429/s.html

 

[Uncle Pug]

$$$ is not the least of it.

If you have no concerns about cost then get a custom fitted suit unless an off the rack size fits.

However for many folks dollars do matter and the *best* is not always an option... but I am of the opinion that for PNW diving any drysuit is better than diving wet.

Suit construction choices boil down to:
1) vulcanized rubber
2) bi-lam or tri-lam shell
3) neoprene

Seal choices are:
1) latex
2) neoprene

Zipper/entry choices are:
1) back entry
2) front entry with diagonal zip
3) front entry with belly zip
4) front entry with chest zip

a few Undergarment choices are:
1) polarfleece
2) thinsulate
4) polypro wooly bear
5) Goodwill skiwear

The least expensive will be a neoprene drysuit followed by a back-entry bilam shell suit with Goodwill skiwear undergarments.

Stepping up to the top of the price chart would net you a custom fit DUI CF200 with thinsulate undergarment.

I prefer a trilam shell suit with attached boots and polarfleece undergarment. I have a CF200... but it seldom gets used.

 

[Kendall Raine]

I have been using a drysuit for ten years and have about 800 dives in them. I currently own two suits. Both are made by DUI. One is a crushed neoprene and one a trilaminate. I still prefer a wetsuit, but because of thermal issues that's not appropriate for much of the diving I do.

Things to consider in a suit:

1. Material. This choice will drive cost, comfort and durability factors.

2. Cost. Big range here. Somewhat correlated with quality. Definitely correlated with material. I don't believe the noise about drysuits being economical versus wetsuits in the long run. That's marketing nonsense. For a good drysuit, you're going to spend more money between purchase and maintenance than you would regularly replacing wetsuits. The issue is thermal. Cold is more than uncomfrotable. It's dangerous. Wetsuit heaters are a silly attempt to get around this.

3. Fit. Most suits don't unless you're shaped like a potato. Custom suits are more expensive. Some materials stretch and some don't.

4. Seals. Basically two choices-Latex and neoprene. Latex makes a better seal while neoprene is less vulnerable.

5. Valve positioning. While chest exhausts are increasingly rare, they're still around-especially on older suits. Avoid them. Inflator valves that rotate work and are a good feature. Ankle exhausts are a bad idea for various reasons.

6. Zipper positioning. Various styles. Some allow self-donning while others require assistance. Some are positioned better than others to avoid wear and stress. Across the shoulder types are particularly troublesome inasmuch as you need help to zip them, they get lots of stress across the shoulder and the tank straps rest on them which drives the zipper into your traps and puts weight on the zipper teeth. A new zipper will cost you 200-300 to replace.

7. Options. Things like pockets, boot styles, heavier grade latex on seals, p-valves (men only), attached hoods, zipper covers, valve positioning and dry hoods and gloves are options on certain suits. Just about anything can be changed after purchase even if the manufacturer won't.

I have clear cut opions about what works best. Send me a PM for those.

 

[diverbug]

Thanks for the tutorial. I've been doing some research (mostly online) and was leaning toward the trilam, but Warren's string is giving me a bit more to think about (although I don't plan to do much cold water wreck diving so don't need to worry as much about the 'toughness').

My dive buddy isn't a very good source of info as he uses some of his ancient commercial gear (looks silly, but it works).

I completely agree Uncle Pug - any dry (semi-dry) suit has to be better than wet up here. My hot water rinse only stays so warm - especially after the 2nd dive. The only thing I'm not looking forward to about diving dry is shlepping all that extra weight around - but that's a small price to pay for being warm.

$$ is an issue for me, so I'll probably try for middle of the road. I already own lots of old long-johns (snow skiing in the NW often requires a change of undergarments due to RAIN).

 

[jonnythan]

Kendall Raine once bubbled...
I have clear cut opions about what works best. Send me a PM for those.

Come on, let's hear em! Too scared of your own opinions to voice them publically?

My choice are for trilam, front entry, neo seals, Rock Boots, and polypro+fleece underwear.

 

[IndigoBlue]

Uncle Pug once bubbled...

Zipper/entry choices are:
1) back entry
2) front entry with diagonal zip
3) front entry with belly zip
4) front entry with chest zip

The back entry suits are a major annoyance to me.

You never know if your zipper has been tightened all the way.

You cannot tighten your zipper yourself.

I would recommend the diagonal front entry zipper.

 

[jonnythan]

diverbug once bubbled...
$$ is an issue for me, so I'll probably try for middle of the road. I already own lots of old long-johns (snow skiing in the NW often requires a change of undergarments due to RAIN).

Just as a tip, buying a Bare suit from a Canadian shop (such as http://www.dansdiveshop.ca/) results in a darn good deal. I know a few people who have Bare's budget trilam, the Nex Gen, and have nothing but good things to say about them. A full Nex Gen package will only set you back $500 - $600, whereas Bare's top of the line telescoping torso heavy duty tough as nails trilam (which I have - the ATR HD) will be less than a thousand, including drygloves and boots.

 

[Kendall Raine]

Hardly.

 

[Uncle Pug]

diverbug once bubbled...
My hot water rinse only stays so warm - especially after the 2nd dive. The only thing I'm not looking forward to about diving dry is shlepping all that extra weight around - but that's a small price to pay for being warm.

You should actually end up carrying less weight diving dry if you are taught to use the drysuit correctly.

Tip: diving wet don't pour hot or warm water down your suit between dives... remove your wetsuit and dry yourself off completely. Before putting your wetsuit back on (just before the second dive) pour warm water in it.

When you pour warm water on cold skin you open up the capillaries and end up dropping your core temp.