Drysuit Material

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mmadiver

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I've been diving my viking sport vulcanized rubber drysuit for awhile now and was curious as benefit of the various materials used in other types of suits. Seems like tri-lam suits are very popular but I've also heard they are kind of flimsy.

So what's the best material/construction for normal cold water diving? I recognize that there is likely alot of personal preference involved, just curious if there was an "ultimate" material.
 
mmadiver:
I've been diving my viking sport vulcanized rubber drysuit for awhile now and was curious as benefit of the various materials used in other types of suits. Seems like tri-lam suits are very popular but I've also heard they are kind of flimsy.

So what's the best material/construction for normal cold water diving? I recognize that there is likely alot of personal preference involved, just curious if there was an "ultimate" material.
I think vulcanised rubber is the easiest to repair, but it doesn't have much abrasion resistance. The problem is, if you bond a layer of protective fabric over the rubber, it's not as easy to repair and it looses the "washing off" ability that makes it a good hazmat material. My ideal solution would be a vulcanised rubber suit with a pair of coveralls worn over it. You could even have different coveralls for different situations: A black set for formal dives. A leopard-print one for 80's night-dives. Khaki-coloured ones for tropical dives.... Enough talk! I'm off to buy coveralls!
 
There really is no ultimate material, although vulcanized rubber comes close.

Vulcanized rubber is tough to beat for over all durability and repairability. As indicated above it is quick and easy to patch - dry the leaky spot off, hit it with a tire patch and you could be back in the water in 15 minutes. It also usually has some stretch to it which allows a little snugger cut to the suit than trilam suits that do not stretch at all.

On the negative side, they can be quite heavy in the more durable commerical weights and the heavier weights are less stretchy. And they come in back entry models only.

Trilam suits are almost as durable and are a lot lighter and usually less expensive than a vulcanized rubber suit. But they have no stretch and consequently must be cut with a looser fit to allow full flexibility. This is particularly true with self entry models which have much more lenght in the torso than a rear entry suit to allow you in and out of the suit, whihc in the water adds up to a lot more bagginess. They are also slower to dry and repair than vulcanized rubber.

There are also bi-lam suits made out of polyurethane coated pack cloth. They work ok for a while until the urethane coating breaks down at which point they leak. And they are prone to seam leaks which are almost impossible to fix. They are affordable but are by far the least durable suits available.

Crushed neoprene is a nice compromise material with good durability, a fair amount of stretch, and they offer the potential for a trimmer cut without compromising flexibility. But they are heavier, slow drying and it is harder to find and repair leaks. They also tend to be quite expensive. It is another material that comes close to doing it all pretty well.

Neoprene suits are affordable and very stretchy which allows a very trim almost wet suit like cut. And the inherent warmth of the shell material allows you to use much thinner and much less expensive undergarments. In my experience they offer by far the best "swimmability" available in a dry suit and will tolerate less air in the suit than other types where the squeeze tends to be sharper and more painful.

They are also comparatively inexpensive at about 1/3 the cost of a trilam and a 1/4 the cost of a crushed neoprene or vulcanized rubber suit. They are arguably less durable, but I tend to get at least 400 dives per suit before they start to leak, and when you multiply that times 3, I get at least as many dives out of the three neoprene suits I can purchase for the price of one trilam as I do that one trilam, so it's a wash. And in the process I get three sets of seals, three sets of boots and three new zippers over the life of the three suits for "free" so maintenence is cheaper over time than with a trilam.

In my exprience in very cold water (32-35 degrees), they tend to be much warmer than a trilam or vulcanized rubber suit with heavy thinsulate underwear, even at depths to 150 ft. where the compression of the neoprene material should reduce the insulation it provides. I don't know why they are warmer, they just are.

The downsides of neoprene suits are much slower drying time, heavier weight (about the same as a crushed neoprene or vulcanized rubber suit) and rear only entry zippers.

If possible dive different types of drysuits and see what works best for you. What is great for one diver is not always the first choice of another diver. Unfortunately many divers start with one style suit (usually a trilam) based on what they read or hear from other divers and never try other types. Consequently they tend to have strong predjudices but often have no real comparative experience and do not know what they are missing with other types of suits. I know because I used to be one of them.
 
DA Aquamaster- That is the most thorough, unbiased, best discription of the advantages and disadvantages of various materials that I have ever seen.
Nice job!
 
So by now you've seen that the material depends on what you do when diving in regards to how long it lasts. From my viewpoint the above description of the various materials seems right on, I'd go with it.

For me, my Viking Sport is all I need and seems to be pretty reliable. The lds I use dives Viking more than any other suit and they have few problems with them. One of my favorite things about it is that when I'm done I towel off the suit, unzip and get out and the thing is dry before I get in the van to go home. By the time I'm home the BP/W is dry and all that's left is to put the gear up. I love that.

You can always find me in a crowd however, around here once I get away from the local scene Bare and DUI seem to dominate and I stick out like a sore thumb. I'm the only brightly colored diver around...
 
Good comments everyone, I appreciate the help. A lobsterman gave me the viking suit I have after I repaired some stuff for him. Can't beat free, but I am curious to try other types.
 
What a deal, if it's dry.

One thing I would add is buoyancy issues. With a Neoprene dry suit you have compression issues and will tend to carry more lead to offset the neoprene, crushed is not the same that way. A trilam doesn't have this issue either.

So, you'll find a trilam dives very similar to the Viking you have now and a 6 or 7mm neoprene suit dives differently due to compression.
 
Just a quick question here, not meaning to hijack the thread.

Why is weight an issue with dry suits.

It takes "X" amount of weight to submerge and stay neutral on a safety stop.

What's the difference if it's lead or suit material?

the K
 
As for flimsiness, I have a Bare ATR-HD trilam drysuit, and when installing the P-valve, I got a brand-spanking new razor-sharp hole punch for the job. I put a sturdy block of hardwood under the layer of trilam I wanted to put a hole in, lined up the punch, and gave it a mighty whack with a large hammer. I'm a big, strong guy, so I was suprised to find I hardly dented the fabric. I gave it an even harder blow, then another, and another. Thirty whacks later, I had the hole most of the way through, and cleaned up the edges with a razor blade and hot iron.

I wouldn't exactly call that flimsy.
 
Also note that some materials are better than others if you are diving in a location or situation where there might be contaminates in the water. The rubber suits will not absorb any fuels or oils that might be in the water and for the opposite reason you would want to stay away from a crushed neoprene suit in those waters.
 

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