Question Drysuit Heating. Which valves should I get?

[ChrisMBC]

I have a Santi Thermovalve that lasted me -60 dives before the E/O cord gave up. Even before the connector died completely, I found the connectivity to be somewhat intermittent (would turn off and on during a dive). This is despite me treating it as well as I possibly could - never wet connected/disconnected, rinsed thoroughly etc.

I replaced it with an Ammonite valve that’s been rock solid for 100 dives now. The E/O connector definitely seems more robust - though in fairness, I think some of the benefit is that my battery is also an Ammonite battery, so the two E/O connectors are the same brand/size.

 

[suricatasuricata]

I have heard the claim that Santi valves don't play nice without Santi batteries. But it seemed very surprising to me because there are very few people who use the Santi batteries (compared to other choices).

60 Dives is a bit outrageously low for an expensive valve.

 

[ChrisMBC]

I have heard the claim that Santi valves don't play nice without Santi batteries. But it seemed very surprising to me because there are very few people who use the Santi batteries (compared to other choices).

60 Dives is a bit outrageously low for an expensive valve.

In fairness, you don't have to replace the entire valve, just the E/O cord, which can be had for something like $40-50. The replacement process is a bit of a PITA though and you need some basic soldering skills.

I agree with the sentiment however, which is that the E/O cord shouldn't be an annual consumable that you have to replace - or at least, it doesn't seem to be for other manufacturers.

 

[lermontov]

Be aware that the E/O cables eventually break and are very expensive (for a cable) and a little fiddly to repair as you need a soldering iron and the correct connectors (as Santi glue theirs, so you can't open them unless you're lucky). Have had three failures with the Santi connector in 5 seasons.

This ^

I recommend you only us the heated connector valve when you really need it- ie take it off and put a standard inflator valve on when the water is warm - the constant movement when not in use will fatigue the wires - i put in a seperate connection because part of the issue is the wires are bent at 90º when they enter the valve and they can rub agains the inflator valve dump

I made a separate hole to make it less of an issue and got delrin plugs to cover the housing when not in use - having no inflator on it means the wires aren't kinked and you can put some sort of rubber silicone in it to give it more support

 

[suricatasuricata]

This ^

I recommend you only us the heated connector valve when you really need it- ie take it off and put a standard inflator valve on when the water is warm - the constant movement when not in use will fatigue the wires - i put in a seperate connection because part of the issue is the wires are bent at 90º when they enter the valve and they can rub agains the inflator valve dump

I made a separate hole to make it less of an issue and got delrin plugs to cover the housing when not in use - having no inflator on it means the wires aren't kinked and you can put some sort of rubber silicone in it to give it more support

Thank you, I do plan to use a regular valve most of the time. Our climate in California doesn't force me to use a heated undergarment, so this is mostly a travel consideration when going to the PNW and Alaska.