Question Drysuit Heating. Which valves should I get?

[ChrisMBC]

I have a Santi Thermovalve that lasted me -60 dives before the E/O cord gave up. Even before the connector died completely, I found the connectivity to be somewhat intermittent (would turn off and on during a dive). This is despite me treating it as well as I possibly could - never wet connected/disconnected, rinsed thoroughly etc.

I replaced it with an Ammonite valve that’s been rock solid for 100 dives now. The E/O connector definitely seems more robust - though in fairness, I think some of the benefit is that my battery is also an Ammonite battery, so the two E/O connectors are the same brand/size.

 

[suricatasuricata]

I have heard the claim that Santi valves don't play nice without Santi batteries. But it seemed very surprising to me because there are very few people who use the Santi batteries (compared to other choices).

60 Dives is a bit outrageously low for an expensive valve.

 

[ChrisMBC]

I have heard the claim that Santi valves don't play nice without Santi batteries. But it seemed very surprising to me because there are very few people who use the Santi batteries (compared to other choices).

60 Dives is a bit outrageously low for an expensive valve.

In fairness, you don't have to replace the entire valve, just the E/O cord, which can be had for something like $40-50. The replacement process is a bit of a PITA though and you need some basic soldering skills.

I agree with the sentiment however, which is that the E/O cord shouldn't be an annual consumable that you have to replace - or at least, it doesn't seem to be for other manufacturers.

 

[lermontov]

Be aware that the E/O cables eventually break and are very expensive (for a cable) and a little fiddly to repair as you need a soldering iron and the correct connectors (as Santi glue theirs, so you can't open them unless you're lucky). Have had three failures with the Santi connector in 5 seasons.

This ^

I recommend you only us the heated connector valve when you really need it- ie take it off and put a standard inflator valve on when the water is warm - the constant movement when not in use will fatigue the wires - i put in a seperate connection because part of the issue is the wires are bent at 90º when they enter the valve and they can rub agains the inflator valve dump

I made a separate hole to make it less of an issue and got delrin plugs to cover the housing when not in use - having no inflator on it means the wires aren't kinked and you can put some sort of rubber silicone in it to give it more support

 

[suricatasuricata]

This ^

I recommend you only us the heated connector valve when you really need it- ie take it off and put a standard inflator valve on when the water is warm - the constant movement when not in use will fatigue the wires - i put in a seperate connection because part of the issue is the wires are bent at 90º when they enter the valve and they can rub agains the inflator valve dump

I made a separate hole to make it less of an issue and got delrin plugs to cover the housing when not in use - having no inflator on it means the wires aren't kinked and you can put some sort of rubber silicone in it to give it more support

Thank you, I do plan to use a regular valve most of the time. Our climate in California doesn't force me to use a heated undergarment, so this is mostly a travel consideration when going to the PNW and Alaska.

 

[Fat old english bloke]

Just another addition to the Santi failure list here.

Mine went at the need of last week, just as I was kitting up for a reasonably long and reasonably cold dive.

I like dive kit which is dependable, so won’t be getting another.

If the repair is too much of a PITA, or I’m not convinced that it’s longevity will be adequate, I’ll give the Ammonite a go.

 

[Alekseolsen]

Just another addition to the Santi failure list here.

Mine went at the need of last week, just as I was kitting up for a reasonably long and reasonably cold dive.

I like dive kit which is dependable, so won’t be getting another.

If the repair is too much of a PITA, or I’m not convinced that it’s longevity will be adequate, I’ll give the Ammonite a go.

Did you suffer from a cable-failure or something else?

 

[Fat old english bloke]

Did you suffer from a cable-failure or something else?

Did you suffer from a cable-failure or something else?

I haven’t carried out a continuity test on it, but by testing the various connecting cables, batteries and clothing with another thermovalve it was obvious that my valve had failed. It’ll be either the cable or a connector, but from what I’ve read & heard the cable is most likely to have gone.

 

[stuartv]

Is there any reason the Si Tech Vega valve hasn't been mentioned here?

I use the Vega and like it just fine.

Bonus: I got my Vega valve from Seaskin for much less money than I could find it from any U.S. supplier.

Currently 97GBP (excluding VAT), which is USD$122.

SI TECH VEGA Inflation Valve | Seaskin Drysuits Shop

The VEGA Inflation Valve is designed for extended range diving in cold environments - Seaskin Drysuits are made to order directly from the factory.

seaskin.co.uk

 

[Wibble]

Just another addition to the Santi failure list here.

Mine went at the need of last week, just as I was kitting up for a reasonably long and reasonably cold dive.

I like dive kit which is dependable, so won’t be getting another.

If the repair is too much of a PITA, or I’m not convinced that it’s longevity will be adequate, I’ll give the Ammonite a go.

Heating System E/O Cord | Rebreatherpro-Training

Heating System E/O Cord Super strong. Having problems with your heating system E/O cord, then try the new coaxial cable. Extremely durable and tolerant of

www.rebreatherpro-training.com

WAM E/O - Cord Kabel für Akkutank, Heizung ... schwarz

SF-1 ScubaFreaks

www.sf-1.eu