Drysuit basics - Help needed

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Ask the shop if you can take the course and buy the suit later and deduct the cost of the course from the suit. I know most shops would let you do that. See if you can take the class and rent a couple of different suits to get an idea of what works for you. I'm a big fan of shell suits. I own a USIA suit that I had custom fit. The fit on any drysuit is very important and I would recommend you pay the extra money for a custom suit..
 
I rented a suit as part of the class at a reduced rate. I didn't want to spend that kind of money until I knew what I would want and use. I bet that if you talk with the shop owner, they will work something out with you to get a savings whether you pruchase the suit before or after the class. At least enough to keep you from spending $100s extra.
 
All your help has been quite useful for me. Thank you Scubaboard! I am hesitant between two drysuits at this moment. One is the DUI TLS350 and the other one is the Bare XCD2 Tech Dry. The price difference is considerable (around 600 Euros). Do you guys know what are the main differences? Well, at this moment I already know that DUI is some kind of reference in dry suits. What about the Bare? Is it good? What are the main differences?

Thanks once again.

Regards
 
Another question. I still didnt understand what is better: fabric or neopreme in a dry suit? what is the difference?

Cheers
 
nunomix:
Another question. I still didnt understand what is better: fabric or neopreme in a dry suit? what is the difference?

Cheers

A neoprene drysuit will have some insulation properties in itself, much like a wetsuit - the air pockets in the neoprene give it its own insultation. Therefore, you may have to wear less in the way of undergarments. However, like a wetsuit, those air pockets will compress at depth, reducing the insulation properties (meaning that at depth, you may find yourself getting colder) and causing issues with buoyancy with depth compression (meaning you may need to adjust your buoyancy compensation for the effects of compression of your neoprene drysuit at depth). You will likely also have to wear more weight to make up for the buoyancy of the neoprene in addition to the buoyancy of your undergarments.

A crushed neoprene drysuit (in which the airpockets in the neoprene are already crushed) will alleviate the issues with the airpockets in the neoprene as well as some of the weight issue.

A fabric or trilaminate drysuit doesn't provide insulation in itself - your insulation is provided by the undergarments you wear underneath. The pluses of a trilaminate dry suit are that you will likely need much less weight than with a neoprene dry suit (but of course, depending on your undergarment), they dry much more quickly after a dive and you can usually wear them across a more varying water temperature range by varying your undergarments. You also don't have the buoyancy issues with suit compression that you have with neoprene, as there aren't any air pockets inherent in the suit itself. However, it isn't going to be as "sturdy" if you're planning on doing things like wreck penetration - you run the risk of tearing a trilaminate suit more easily on sharp metal edges. That's why many wreck divers much prefer a neoprene or crushed neoprene suit to a trilaminate - it's more durable under those kinds of conditions.

So "better" depends on your type of diving preference - it's all subjective...I just bought a DUI TLS350 because that's what was best for *me* - I don't do any wreck penetration and the only wreck diving I do is *strictly* outside wrecks and I stay far away from anything that could tear my suit. The water I dive can range from low 40's to mid-70's so I wanted to be able to wear my suit under a wide range of temperatures - and I always HATED dealing with the buoyancy issues created by my 7mm farmer john.

Best of luck in choosing the right dry suit for *you* :)
 
DUI offers a try our suits special called Dog Days. For info look up their web site. Also as everyone else says "get a dry suit class" as their are a few specific dive skills that should be learned to dive a dry suit.
 
nunomix:
Another question. I still didnt understand what is better: fabric or neopreme in a dry suit? what is the difference?

Cheers
Trilam: two pieces of nylon sandwiching a piece of butyl rubber. Durability and flexibility very depending on the durability and flexibility of the nylon, and cordura rating.
Crushed foam: essentially wet suit neoprene, that has been subjected to high pressure, and in essence crushed. It usually has good flexibility and durabiulity.
Vulcanoized Rubber: I believe viking is the only manufacturer, but it is basicly the same material as a biclcle tube. Advantage -really easy repairs.
Neoprene suit: Same material as a wet suit. Seams are sealed, uses a dry zipper, and seals on neck and wrists.
Again, this information will be in a good dry suit class. I have taught this course under both NAUI and PADI, and either course if taught properly is good. Another suggestion would be to be sure the instructor teaching the course is someone whoe regularly dives a dry suit.
 
If you are buying, you should consider self donning an important feature. Basically it means the zipper is placed where you can actually open and close it by your self if needed. Those that have the zippers across the back mean you stand around with your arms out asking for your buddy to help. Not a big deal but definitely a nice feature.
 
I bought a Bare HD Tech Trilam with hood, T-100 Polarwear and Trek boots for about half the price of a DUI suit. It's even got built in Gators that I like. Very tough suit. As compared to the DUI TLS350 it probably takes longer to dry. Do some research and compare prices. Figure out what kind of suit you want. What type on entry, what type of seals, what material etc. Then compare the top manf. and their prices. As this was my first drysuit purchase I decided to go with Bare as I felt it was very close in comparison to the competition for half the price.
 

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