Dryglove failure?

[Rainer]

Having used my own suggestions for a few weeks now, I've yet to flood my gloves in the last six trips. This past weekend I decided to stop wearing wet gloves under my dry gloves, and wouldn't you know it... I stayed dry. Felt warm, had greatly improved dexterity, and was quite pleased. Looks like these Si-Tech gloves might work out after all.

 

[JeffG]

(2) Light lube on the o-ring (yes, I know it says not to).

Use spit instead. Give the rings a lick before putting them on. Lube is just asking for dirt to stick to it.

 

[Jeremy Bouwman]

I have a viking dry suit with the rings. It looks hilarious and people laugh, but I just take those rubber gloves for cleaning your kitchen/bathroom or whatever, throw a small pair of warm gloves underneath and pull them over my rings. I've never had a leak even and these gloves only cost like $3. you need someone to help you put them on, but it is an awesome DIY thing that is super cheap if you have rings already. They keep my hands nice and toasty warm.

 

[JeffG]

I have a viking dry suit with the rings. It looks hilarious and people laugh, but I just take those rubber gloves for cleaning your kitchen/bathroom or whatever, throw a small pair of warm gloves underneath and pull them over my rings. I've never had a leak even and these gloves only cost like $3. you need someone to help you put them on, but it is an awesome DIY thing that is super cheap if you have rings already. They keep my hands nice and toasty warm.

I find that they have the best dexterity as well. My Skanna/DC gloves are not as nice.

 

[theskull]

I dive the DUI Zip Gloves, many many dives with the original blue smurf style, and a dozen or so with the new compressed neoprene style. On one dive I did not have a glove properly zipped on and it leaked immediately. By the end of the dive one arm was soaked, but thanks to the miracle of thinsulate I was colder than usual but not hypothermic. I find it hard to believe that someone could easily puncture the newer compressed neoprene gloves unless really doing some aggressive wreck diving.

Several friends dive the SiTech gloves and have had many glove leaks, mainly resulting in finishing the dive with a cold wet hand--not really a big deal.

theskull

 

[np251]

hi all

cheers for all the comments.

Decided to keep the seals on... redundancy is always good, plus its not THAT much of a PITA when i weigh it up against all the rest of the donning kit procedure.

About replacement smurf gloves- found the cheap home depot blue gloves, they are a little thinner, but given the price definately the way to go. However, they have the inner cotton layer - not so much a lining really, more just a comfort layer i guess- that are completely attached to the glove. There is NO removing them. And they WICK like crazy. On a pool test at the w/end, i was in 10 minutes before my hand was damp, 20 before it was soaked. I tried folding the end under so as not to expose the cotton, but no dice...

Is there a 'liquid rubber' or something i can dip the ends in to seal the cotton? this might also help bulk out the ends where the oring attaches to the glove

cheers guys

 

[Fire_medic_RescueDiver]

I have both the nonseal zip seal dry glove, have not had any problems with leaking yet but only on less than a dozen dives. I plan on go to Norfork Lake AR in May and will be diving around 4 dives a day for 4 or 5 days so time will tell.

 

[dave4868]

hi all

cheers for all the comments.

Decided to keep the seals on... redundancy is always good, plus its not THAT much of a PITA when i weigh it up against all the rest of the donning kit procedure.

About replacement smurf gloves- found the cheap home depot blue gloves, they are a little thinner, but given the price definately the way to go. However, they have the inner cotton layer - not so much a lining really, more just a comfort layer i guess- that are completely attached to the glove. There is NO removing them. And they WICK like crazy. On a pool test at the w/end, i was in 10 minutes before my hand was damp, 20 before it was soaked. I tried folding the end under so as not to expose the cotton, but no dice...

Is there a 'liquid rubber' or something i can dip the ends in to seal the cotton? this might also help bulk out the ends where the oring attaches to the glove

cheers guys

(Crickets chirping)

Since Diving Concepts dryglove owners haven't answered you, I'll take a stab at it (I use SI TECH).

I have seen people use AquaSeal sealant to make a good sealing surface on the cotton-flocked side of a "supported" glove, such as the pvc gloves from Showa (Atlas) and others.

The following image is from a Diving Concepts webpage. It appears they use a Showa (Atlas) 495 pvc glove, which is made of thin pvc supported by cotton flocking. Is that true?

http://www.divingconcepts.com/dryglove.htm

How did DC prepare the glove for attachment to the ring? Have you taken yours apart yet?

Did they have to use sealant on the flocking or did they roll the hem over to put the smooth outer side against the sealing surface? Please forgive my ignorance, I've only seen them a couple times.

I may be wrong about this, but I thought they had to glue the glove onto their glove ring, which makes a semi-permanent attachment.

That was one of the reasons I went with SI TECH. I can change gloves in about 2 minutes, which I do about three times a year when I switch to smaller gloves as the water temps go up.

Dave C

 

[Mo2vation]

When the Atlas gloves are installed correctly on the DC glove-side rings, there are no leaks. They are not glued on. They are back folded onto the glove-side ring using a large O'ring.

Its possible the wetness in the Home Depot glove came from a couple of sources:

1) Your hands sweat - Without some kind of fabric lining (fleece gloves, the bogus floppy yellow one, whatever) it could be condensation. It is significant, especially in a pool.

2) Improper Seal on glove-side ring - its possible the Home Depot glove is too think to effect a proper seal with the standard DC glove-side Oring

3) Improper installation on glove-side ring - once you've installed several, using the tool I've outlined in SB, its easy. The first few can be rough. Its important that there be about 1/8 of an inch intrusion (symmetrical intrusion - same amount all the way around) of the glove end into the glove-side ring as you look into the glove. Too much (like 1/2") and its possible to seal that glove end between the rings and you'll have a leak. Too little and the glove, under load, can pull out of the back-seal and you'll have a leak.


The atlas gloves are the gloves the DC system have been designed to work with. Sur LaTable, a kitchen supply place sells look-alike blue gloves that are noticable thinner (maybe only double PVC dipped and not triple?) We've used these with much success as a substitute for the Atlas gloves.

I generally use the Atlas gloves with removable liners. Not the thick, yellow pile integrated gloves. I prefer the ones with the removable yellow liners. I chuck the yellow liners and use some fleece or my possum fur gloves for liners. In the summer, I dive with no liners at all.


If you need some additional assistance, or have other questions - PM me. I'd be glad to assist.

Thanks

Ken

 

[dave4868]

I generally use the Atlas gloves with removable liners. Not the thick, yellow pile integrated gloves. I prefer the ones with the removable yellow liners. I chuck the yellow liners and use some fleece or my possum fur gloves for liners. In the summer, I dive with no liners at all.

Where are you chucking those liners?

By the way, here's a place with a good price on the Atlas 495 with separate liners ($12.72, not including S&H):

http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=ATL495L

Dave C