DIY light cannister, ABS or PVC?

[Capnsnott]

I was looking at materials and ended up measuring the ABS (black sewer) pipe. It is 1/4" thick vs the PVC which was almost 3/16". I also noticed the end caps for ABS are actually flat, the PVC ones are rounded.

In terms of using it for the cannister material, would this work better than PVC? It also solves the "white PVC home made" look.
It seems to be harder than the PVC though, it might break easier if so.

Has anyone used this?

Also,
I may have a solution to the great o-ring debate.....
I found a flat rubber drain seal that has tiny ridges on it that work as guides for cutting. I cut a ring out of it that is the thickness of a 2-133 o-ring, but is a little wider. It seems to give me a better sealing area than an o-ring would. I'll do a report on it as soon as I can test it.

Greg aka Doc.

 

[Quarrior]

I'm planning one of these projects myself. I'd be interested in knowing which battery you are using and where you found the battery and light for it. The rest I've got a good idea where to get them.

 

[Capnsnott]

I'm using the G 5.3 socket and MR16 Halogen lamp.
The socket came from a lighting center here in Denver that fixes lamps. It was $4.95.
The bulb is a Sylvania spot (3 pack for $8.50), I'm going between 20W and 50W untill I get the battery usage figured out. It is also the one that fits in the light head from a Mag Light flashlight. See Padipro's MSN - DIY light group for his "how to" stuff. I found you don't have to do any machining on the head to get the bulb to fit and have the clearance needed for the o-ring. But I used a "D" cell Mag Light for my light head, the c cell size may require it. http://groups.msn.com/Divelight

I'm using two 6V 5Ah batteries for my power. Run in series, they give me 12v @ 5Ah. AND they should fit in a 3" tube.
www.zbattery.com
"BP5-6- B&B 6V 5AH - SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY $6.37 ea"

For the switch, I found a pre wired toggle WITH the boot at my local hardware store for $5.25.
Servalite p# 161BU, 10A @125V.

The sealed connections for the wire/cannister/light head are "non metalic, strain relief connectors, 1/2" dia size (grey plastic fittings). $1.29 These are not a pipe thread, but have their own washer and nut. I just drilled the hole out big enough to slightly thread them in, and tighten their nuts down. Then when I have my wires all done, I will seal them from the inside with something.

I used the yellow 14-3 pvc wire that fit perfectly in the 1/2" strain relief connector.

I'll post pictures on Padipro's bbs when I get done.
Greg

 

[daveg1]

I'm using the G 5.3 socket and MR16 Halogen lamp.
The socket came from a lighting center here in Denver that fixes lamps. It was $4.95.
The bulb is a Sylvania spot (3 pack for $8.50), I'm going between 20W and 50W untill I get the battery usage figured out. It is also the one that fits in the light head from a Mag Light flashlight. See Padipro's MSN - DIY light group for his "how to" stuff. I found you don't have to do any machining on the head to get the bulb to fit and have the clearance needed for the o-ring. But I used a "D" cell Mag Light for my light head, the c cell size may require it. http://groups.msn.com/Divelight

I'm using two 6V 5Ah batteries for my power. Run in series, they give me 12v @ 5Ah. AND they should fit in a 3" tube.
www.zbattery.com
"BP5-6- B&B 6V 5AH - SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY $6.37 ea"

For the switch, I found a pre wired toggle WITH the boot at my local hardware store for $5.25.
Servalite p# 161BU, 10A @125V.

The sealed connections for the wire/cannister/light head are "non metalic, strain relief connectors, 1/2" dia size (grey plastic fittings). $1.29 These are not a pipe thread, but have their own washer and nut. I just drilled the hole out big enough to slightly thread them in, and tighten their nuts down. Then when I have my wires all done, I will seal them from the inside with something.

I used the yellow 14-3 pvc wire that fit perfectly in the 1/2" strain relief connector.

I'll post pictures on Padipro's bbs when I get done.
Greg

Greg,
Before you buy everything you may want to recheck that the batt will fit. With dim's of 2.76 x 1.77 x 3.89 it will not fit in a 3" tube. Also having made a 6.6 ha can with a 35 watt Mr16, I would not go larger on the bulb. I get about 80 min of burn time from mine.With a 50 watt I only get 45 min. Also don't forget to replace the Mag light lense with a thicker one. I used 3/16 poly carb, it works fine, at least down to 100'.

Dave

 

[Capnsnott]

Dave,
I forgot, I ordered a new glass lense from zbattery.com too ($2.10).
I get the batteris tomorrow, I haven't made any cuts in the cannister materials yet. I was looking at heating and stretching the pipe if need be, but that is another story.

I was thinking the 50W was going to ge too much too, the Lows by me didn't have the 35s in, so I was going to mess with it for a while. The 20w they sell are ustra spots, 8 degree reflectors. So I was going to try them too. I dive some crappy conditions up here (3' vis), so the 8 degree seemed good. I want to try a 35w if I can find one in that reflector range.
My ultimate plan is to change to a HID lighthead. This will get me by till then (I hope).
thanks
Greg

 

[bcsean]

I'm using an ABS container. 3" is perfect for my NiMH battery pack. I'm using the endcap on one end, and a threaded cap on the other. I plan on making a simple harness to mount battery pack to lid, and then threading canister around the whole assembly. No latches needed. Just gotta get a better O-ring, cause the one that comes with the threaded cap is kinda sketchy.

 

[miketsp]

I made a post showing a prototype PVC model on:
http://www.scubaboard.com/showpost.php?p=624248&postcount=13

The big advantage of PVC is that it is solvent welded so you can laminate up as many thin layers as you want to get the required strength.
If you decide to go with ABS and you need to join anything then you will need to look at ABS plastic welding kits at a few hundred dollars and up or look into ultrasonic welding.

 

[Capnsnott]

So the ABS cement won't work? AHHHHHHHHHHH
sounds of feet running from the building.......

I thought the ABS cement was as good as PVC cement...
So the PVC is the only way to go then.
Bummer.....
Thanks
Greg

 

[bcsean]

I'd like an explanation as to why abs cement won't work. I have yet to put mine in the water, but can't see any reason it won't work.

 

[Quarrior]

I made a post showing a prototype PVC model on:
http://www.scubaboard.com/showpost.php?p=624248&postcount=13

The big advantage of PVC is that it is solvent welded so you can laminate up as many thin layers as you want to get the required strength.
If you decide to go with ABS and you need to join anything then you will need to look at ABS plastic welding kits at a few hundred dollars and up or look into ultrasonic welding.

From what you say about ABS layering, it appears you are talking about ABS plastic sheeting. ABS pipe is literally welded together by ABS cement, just like PVC. If you're curious about this, track down your local plumber.