DIY Filter towers

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rjack321:
By the time all the machining you're looking at is done, maybe the shipping on a chamber such as this wouldn't be a bad deal...

http://www.scubacompressor.com/shop...d/152?osCsid=45e01401822260888af8245dc83723bf

A proven product. 6061 Aluminum.

Looks like a winner to me

rjack321:
If you continue on with a DIY approach, I suggest thicker pipe than schedule 40. Not based on any metalurgical science, the incremental cost of schedule 80 or even schedule 160 just won't be that much and you'd have a higher safety factor (= allowance for minor errors). I'd also go with stainless, 316 is often used although not so much for pressure vessels since its difficult to machine.

I don't think anybody suggested schedule 40, I only noted that nominal pipe sizes are based on sch 40.

The real machining challenge here is finding a lathe with a large hole through the spindle. It's a truely big machine that can pass 3" diameter material thru the spindle. (I Know, I have one, Big Leblond, 19 inches of swing, 60 inches between centers and 3.060" through the spindle) A 2.5" hole machine is a little more common, but you won't find one in most shops willing to consider "one off" parts. If you can't slide the tube back into the spindle you have to chuck it up and try to support the free end with some sort of steady rest. It can be done, but it greatly increases the set up time. Cutting threads on the "far end" of a wobbling tube is a recipe for trouble. Large thru bore lathes are more common in the "oil-patch" parts of the country.

Tobin
 
rjack321:
Olly, I think you should ignore the bickering here.

By the time all the machining you're looking at is done, maybe the shipping on a chamber such as this wouldn't be a bad deal...

http://www.scubacompressor.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/152?osCsid=45e01401822260888af8245dc83723bf

A proven product. 6061 Aluminum.


That is the exact thing that I am talking about...Thanks..Richard.... If you add up all required parts from them, there is no much price difference between DIY and pre-assembled one.... BTW, it isn't a hyper filter, but a regular filter.....:D
 
Sorry, somewhere up above I thought someone suggested sch 40. Regardless, if I built a DIY filter I'd DEFINATELY have it hydrotested to at least 5/3rd WP. That might be a difficult thing to arrange though, never tried it.

I don't think I claimed the linked tower was a hyperfilter?

Someone will jump all over me for this but a hyperfilter is just a regular filter with a longer contact time. Possibly finer grained media for more surface area. Regular filters can produce OCA - although there's no universal definition of OCA anyway. Shoot, there's plenty of people out there PP blending with CGA E - not that I would without some additional filtration.

From what I understand of his location, heat, and other pieces of the installation, 2 or 3 of those towers would be ideal. I have heard the commerically available repackable filter canisters for them are no longer made. So I'd have a couple of those made up by a machine shop. Since the interior media container doesn't hold pressure, they are a good DIY project allowing you to use bulk media.

The good engineering and testing practices of today were learned from many years of exploding pressure vessels (e.g. boilers). Not something to mess around with IMO.

Richard
 
rjack321:
Someone will jump all over me for this but a hyperfilter is just a regular filter with a longer contact time. Possibly finer grained media for more surface area. Regular filters can produce OCA - although there's no universal definition of OCA anyway. Shoot, there's plenty of people out there PP blending with CGA E - not that I would without some additional filtration.

LF sells a hyperfilter. What is different about it is the direction of flow. In a regular tower the air flows first up through the inner canister,out the top of the canister and returns to the bottom via the space between the canster and the ID of the tower.

In a hyperfilter it's reversed, up between the id of the tower, in the top of the media canister, and out the bottom.

The reason is you don't want your super clean hyperfiltered air in contact with the potentially dirty inner wall of the tower. When the tower is opened to service the media canister the inside of the tower is subject to contamination.

rjack321:
The good engineering and testing practices of today were learned from many years of exploding pressure vessels (e.g. boilers). Not something to mess around with IMO.

Richard

I agree competely.

Tobin
 
Magneto, the 2 inch schedule 80, 6061-T6 aluminum pipe is not going to be strong enough. After adjusting for threading, and adjusting Barlow's for thick wall calcs, it looks like you are going to need about 0.30 inch wall thickness for 3000 psi WP. This would give a margin of safety. Schedule 80 is approx .218. So, you should look into other methods or materials. The closest to this would be nominal 2 inch, schedule 160. My filters are fabricated with that size using alloy 2024-T6, but aluminum alloy 6061-T6 would be fine. This common alloy is not as strong but has the big advantage of being extremely corrosion resistant(anodizing optional). The hoop stress to yield spec (failure) would meet commonly applied US requirements for 3000 psi WP which are very conservative. I can't remember where I got the pipe. I'll look through some receipts but I can't see that helping you at this point. You need a local solution.
 
I have learned so much from the scubaboard threads over the last couple of years. Pescador775 has provided a great deal of advice regarding compressors/filling stations as well as others to some of us less knowledgeable. Most of us are on the sidelines learning, but it seems like the tone is a little compared to others. I know that everyone involved is concerned about safety given the topic and I hope that the discussion continues without it turning personal. Again thanks to all for the hard to get information.
 
oxyhacker:
Re aluminum, yes it can be used safely, but if Bauer and Mako and several others cannot make aluminum stacks that don't fatigue and occasionally let go (or at least stress crack), or have to be severely limited in cycles, what chance does a DIYer have? Remember they don't only design the things and hope they've though of everything, , but also test the design extensively before putting it into production. A DIYer doesn't have this luxury an basically gives it his best shot and then keeps his fingers crossed.

If alu is to be used, I think a Bauer style setup where an O-ringed plug goes into the tube and is held on by an externally threaded collar is preferrable to the a stepped plug that fits inside and is retained by internal threading - less reduction of the tube diameter, less steps to act as stress risers and external threading is always easier than internal for the amateur.

SS is hard to work, yes. So the secret is a design that requires the least workng possible. Cross bolted O-ring sealed plugs are probably the easiest way, though you have to keep the diameter fairly small to avoid overloading the bolts, though plugs retained by a collar can also be done with a minimum of machining. You wouldn't want to do this with alu, since the cross bolts would likely overstess it.

(Those Groban accumulators are starting to look pretty good even with postage)

I apologise for my absence from the discussion. Unfortunately my computer crashed as I was trying to reply to the above post.

My original question was whether or not any one had any personal experience of building filters. I asked this because I wanted to have sufficient depth of information to be able to come to an informed and considered decision on how best to expand the filtration capabilities of my system.

Before posting I spent several days searching the web and it became apparent that there was very little information publicly available on the subject. Being an extremely cautious person with a minimal understanding of suitable materials, construction methods, etc. etc. it seemed a little too Darwinian to attempt such a potentially lethal project from scratch when it was almost certain that there were in existence proven and tested DIY designs.

Imagine my surprise, I hadn’t expected to be told on a DIY forum that I wasn’t serious, neither had I expected to be told that I should buy them ?.

Previous research had led me to the conclusion that due to the high temperature and humidity of the area I needed to add between four and six towers, depending on size and final layout, to the factory provided equipment. I’m sure that when one considers a cost of $800 to $1500 each the attractiveness of a self build option requires no explanation.

From reading Vance’s publications and posts I was leaning heavily towards the notion that the easiest and safest solution was to use accumulators but I still wanted to evaluate the feasibility of alternative ideas. This was mainly due to the fact that despite aircraft parts being unavailable locally there was an abundance of oil industry paraphernalia to be had if one was prepared to search for and identify it. Again, the attraction of locally sourced materials requires little explanation and when coupled with the abundance of machine shops the subject proved worthy of further investigation. In fact just after posting I located some extremely robust SS piping that had already been machined internally and that looked ideal for the project.

So being an extremely cautious individual in need of some hands on experience and knowledge prior to making a decision I felt that this forum would offer me access to some very knowledgeable individuals which it has.

Vance hit the nail squarely on the head when he drew every one’s attention back to the focus of my question, which was a DIY solution in the spirit of a straightforward, safe design that eliminated any safety concerns.

And as he summarized the accumulators appear to be the most straight forward way to proceed and recently I’ve been able to track some down at a very reasonable price, albeit in the US. I’m currently waiting for the vendor to send me a few more details on the spec and then I should be all set.

The information put forward by all contributors, both on and off line, has been most useful and I thank you all for taking the time to answer my questions to date.
 
I'm glad you found some suitable accumulators, a better option IMO than struggling with pipe. I assume these are hydraulic? What's their rating?

I have a steel hydraulic tie-rod cylinder as an argon booster. Cleaning it of oil was disgusting. I eventually used powdered laundry detergent (which must be like pH 11 or 12) to cut the oil. It was thick, and smelly.

Then Simple Green about 3x, then rinse rinse rinse. After it dried there was still some whitish detergent residue so I rinsed somemore. Took a surprisingly long time and I was able to get it disassembled (tie rod design).

If you can't disassemble your accumulators, I think you'll want to have some sort of circulating wash and then circulating rinse.
 
Magneto, as I said, you were not serious. Thanks for finally coming clean, and hopefully your computer is doing better. My responses were mainly an intellectual exercise for the potential benefit of a larger crowd so, no problem.
 
Stats, you are welcome and your post about "personal" stuff is well taken. However, the somewhat dense nature of "hardware" did elicit more responses from me than would be the case. Magneto can thank him for that. However, his admittedly disengenuous questioning became an annoyance and I do take it personally when trolls patrol.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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