DIY Canister Light and Lighthead

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If all you need is a canister it doesn't require anything more then a hand saw to cut the tubing, some glue to hold everything together and a good file and sand paper to smooth out the edges when you're done. Have you checked out my MSN site yet? There are lots of good ideas posted in the message section, hundreds of pictures of many different lights and even a set of complete instructions on how I built mine in the documents section. Take a look and you might find the info you need.

DIY Canister Light
 
This has been a fun thread to follow - and Padipro - between this thread and your msn group I was inspired to try my hand at a light myself. I completed the head and tomorrow will complete the battery housing. Tonight during my preliminary water testing of the light head (standard maglite housing) I noticed water seeping in slowly through the butt cap - the o ring is in place properly and after 30 minutes at 3 feet (in a bucket) there were drops of water in the threads past the o ring, however none got past the bulb seals. Are you using anything other than the "stock" o-ring at that end in the maglite housing? I could use teflon tape but figured I'd try without it first.

suggestions anyone?

Thanks,

Tim
 
I did the thread tape thing at first, and it worked just fine but after a while I just desided to JD Weld the end cap on to eliminate any chance of it leaking.

Please post some pictures of the light on the MSN site, I'd like to see how it turns out.
 
Thanks, but guess I'm limited to "tape" then - my whole design is based on a removable end cap - I'm using nearly all "scrounged" parts from around the house and in order to have interchangeable bulbs (a 20 & 50 watt depending on needs) and access to the charging line, the butt cap has to be removable - - I'll keep working on it and post pics when it's finished - I just finished soldering all my connections and sealing them with silicone - so tomorrow I can put the end caps on the canister (I used an oven softened 3" ABS pipe shaped around my batteries - so the end caps are going to be permanent)

P.S. Will either a 20 or 50 watt bulb be usable above water? or will both simply fry the internal components without water cooling them off?
 
I used teflon pipe thread compound (similar to teflon tape) on my endcap & it works. I wanted to keep the endcap removeable in case I ever need to replace the socket.

So you're making a permanently sealed battery canister, and charging it through the lighthead socket? Isn't that dangerous? (hydrogen gas)?
 
actually I'm going to add a vent cap to the end cap of the canister so that I can vent the gas, but not have any major seals to contend with.
 
Did this thread 'burn out', or what?

I looked under my sink and had an idea for an instant canister. I don't know how much these things cost, but this water filter is water tight, has 1/2" NPT threads already in it, and just might be large enough for a bunch of nimh batteries.

There's a little purge valve in the top of it, which is probably where the switch would go.

-Tiny-B.
 
Scott,
Ever thought of an HID lamp?
I'm working on a new light head.
I've decided to build an MR11 HID lamp.
Looking a the commercial ones they aren't rocket science.
I can reduce the battery pack, I've got some 7.5 hr lead acid batteris that fit nicely in a 4 inch abs tube. Quick calulation say's I can make it neutral.

The lamp head is the only major machining.
The commercial units just use a c-clip (retaining ring) to keep the glass lens inplace and sealed.
Ever taken a look at the HID head?

Mike D
 
Tiny Bubbles:
Did this thread 'burn out', or what?

I looked under my sink and had an idea for an instant canister. I don't know how much these things cost, but this water filter is water tight, has 1/2" NPT threads already in it, and just might be large enough for a bunch of nimh batteries.

There's a little purge valve in the top of it, which is probably where the switch would go.

-Tiny-B.

I have played around with one of these filters. worked well for 25m, bever tested deeper. major problem was that you can not fit any normal led-acid battary into the filter, and other battrays are not cheap.

there is an additional problem - the oring is on the wrong side of the thread - so you will have water in the thread, and there is a decen chance thay may get into the can when you open it. not more then an annoince, but still annoing.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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