DIY Dive-Xtras Echo PTB (power tool battery kit)

[Slorg]

I happen to have access to free 3d printing at university and created this DIY PTB kit. Happy to share the STL if requested. There are three things I would change for a V 2.0, push the mounting surface up 5mm, increase the internal diameter by 3mm and utilize a steel 1/4" plate to reduce the amount of lead in the nose. For the parts it was pretty much what was lying around in my garage, some better materials/connectors could be chosen. The lock ring and battery-scooter connector was salvaged from a dead ni-mh pack.

Materials used:
4 spade connectors
30amp fuse + holder
Various fasteners
12 AWG wire
Various shrink/wire wrap and tape
3D printer!

I did a runtime test with the cheap waitley 9ah batteries and some modified blacktip firmware. The result was 60 minutes with 36% charge remaining in each battery.

 

[nwbrewer]

Well done! What did you do for the ESC?

 

[Slorg]

Thanks! For the ESC I used a FLIPSKY Mini FSESC6.7 PRO 70A.

 

[nwbrewer]

Thanks! For the ESC I used a FLIPSKY Mini FSESC6.7 PRO 70A.

Do you just use a hacked version of the Blacktip software? I have Sierra and a Cuda that I modified much the same way, always curious if someone has something better though.

Consider putting a Blacktip prop on your echo. Someone post instructions here a while back on how to modify the original prop parts to be able to use he more efficient prop. It's pretty simple.

 

[Slorg]

Someone was nice enough to send me some tips for configuring this version for Sierras (Echo is pretty much an old single speed Sierra, I believe it was revised quite quickly?) and it worked for me. I just chopped off the top few speeds and adjusted the motor parameters to suite. If you join this Facebook group you can find it, as it's not mine to share here.

The prop is on the radar!

I have a few trigger issues to sort out now, mainly the positioning of the reed switch and a service of the mechanism itself. It is not as smooth as I would like and doesn't always return to the off position underwater. The reed switch was also zip tied in and moves far too easily, I am thinking a simple hose clamp with some inner tube should do the trick.