DIY Canister Light and Lighthead

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mddolson:
Hopefully I'll take you up on that someday Scott.
I've got a daughter getting married July 31 this summer so we're kind of busy for a while.

best regards

Mike D

I know what you mean, my son is graduating this year from High School and so my summer is going to be hecktic as well.

Good luck on the wedding plans.
 
I took my light down 51 feet last weekend. The canister flooded. The maglite head didn't flood. I think I'll take it diving this weekend without any batteries in it, and hope I can see a leak in it somewhere.

-Tiny-B.
 
Instead of trying to match the oring size, depth and resisitance, you may consider my fix for the oring problem... go to the hardware store and purchase rubber gasket material and cut it to fit your inner diameter of the lid. There are usually two thicknesses of the rubber, and you know the gasket will fit. I simply used an Xacto knife to cut it.

The other issue might be if the lid isn't smooth, there are small cracks for the water to leak through. superfine sandpaper worked for my light. BTW don't drop a flashlight on your canister. Just kidding.
 
Tiny Bubbles:
I took my light down 51 feet last weekend. The canister flooded. The maglite head didn't flood. I think I'll take it diving this weekend without any batteries in it, and hope I can see a leak in it somewhere.

-Tiny-B.

Someone once suggested putting news paper in the canister, along with some soft weights when leak testing. The weights compensate for the battery and the news paper helps you determine what area the leak is comming from.

Did you use an o-ring around the base of the strain releaf? If so did you counter sink the area around the hole for the strain releaf to give the o-ring somewhere to seat and form a good seal? Did you also use thread tape on the strain releaf base before screwing it into the lid?. What about the switch? Is the rubber boot cut, did you use RTV to seal around the switch as you installed it into the lid permanently? I also used a switch gaurd around the rubber boot and then put some more RTV around the base of the boot inside the gaurd.
 
Padipro, I can't seem to access the documents on your msn site.

I can view the images but I get asked for an msn password to access the docs. Do I need to setup an msn account or is there another way.

Great advice here, I'm looking forward to starting my system sometime soon.

Cheers,

J.
 
Freeflyer:
Padipro, I can't seem to access the documents on your msn site.

I can view the images but I get asked for an msn password to access the docs. Do I need to setup an msn account or is there another way.

Great advice here, I'm looking forward to starting my system sometime soon.

Cheers,

J.

Have you joined the group? I don't believe you have to view the pictures but you might inorder to view the documents. I've never had anyone ask me this before. If you've already joined the group I'll take a look and see if there is something wrong within the site.
 
Thought I'd post a pic or two of the progress I made this weekend... While working on a "Goodman" type handle I realized that with my big paws, I don't even need to put a base plate in there.. I'm planning on simply using the double snap shackle as the handle. This won't work for those of you with smaller hands. As you can see it fit mine perfectly.

I think it looks really professional and I hope it serves some inspiration up to someone whose trying to build their own...it actually IS possible!!
 
How do ou deepen the groove on the mag lites? I do not have access to machinery here to machine it.

Thanks
 
O2Addict:
How do ou deepen the groove on the mag lites? I do not have access to machinery here to machine it.

Thanks

Don't deepen the groove just yet. I did it on my last light and I suspect that is where the light flooded. Try using the Phillips lightbulb and a proper-sized oring.. It will probably work out fine without it.

If you do, I used a Dremel tool with a sanding disc on it.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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