Diving Two Hose Regulators: Questions

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Wildstar1063

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Location
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Could some of you two hose regulator divers, list some of the
differences between diving a 2 hose regulator, as opposed
to a modem single hose unit?

Also, was there ever a device that went between the tank valve,
and the regulator inlet port that let you tap the high pressure,
gas, so you could have a HP port for a gauge?

I have a US DIvers Royal Aquamaster, that I am getting rebuilt.
I Dove it a couple of times, in the local pool, but I didn't trust it
to any open water dives, 'till I could get it rebuilt.

Alot of people say that these breathe harder than the new regs,
but I find the Royal to breathe easier than many of the new regs
I've tried.

And it's SO NICE not to have the bubbles in you face

Thanks

Wildstar1063 (AKA Chuck E.)
 
Hose clearing requires some techniques not used with single hose regs. A Barrel roll going counter-clockwise (left hose going down) may be needed if a large slug of water finds its way into the hose. The reg will more or less clear itself without needing to exhale if done properly.
For buddy breathing, roll the mouthpiece down & out, keep both persons at same relative depth.
The little US Divers insert for attaching a HP gauge was considered a weak point & not recommended. Use a J-valve and/or bring along a pony.
There were a few different regs that came with a HP port, the Nemrod Snark III being the most popular. It went out of production only 3 - 4 years ago.
You can use the hookah port on your Royal Aqua Master for a LP port. It uses a plain oxygen hose fitting.
 
Bob3,

Thanks for the info, I'll have to Practice the
clearing maneuver, as soon as I get the REG
back from being rebuilt.

I thought I'd buy one of those low pressure
adapter hoses, that Vintage Scuba Supply
sells, and use it as a BC Inflator, and maybe
add one of those inflator-Integrated Octo's for
backup.

I also just bought a new "Duck Bill" valve
(Any one have any Idea how often these
should be replaced?). The one in the unit
was practicly vaulcanized to the metal inside
the Reg.

Someone had told me about the HP insert, I'd like to try it, but even if I wanted to, I cant find one, so I have a US Divers Aluminum 80 with a "J" Valve. IF ANY ONE HAS ONE OF THESE
INSERTS FOR SALE LET ME KNOW!

Do these Regs have the same working pressures as newer ones? or should I
have the tank filled to lower pressures?

Also what do you do if the reg begins to freeflow?

And is the Royal designed to free-flow if it craps out? or will it just stop providing air all togeather

Thanks again for all the
good info

Wildstar1063 (AKA Chuck E.)
 
That rig should be used hooked to a 1/2" NGT 72 with a post valve, or twin 50s, although French Tripples are allowed. Dolphin packs are also suggested.

There were several tank valves of similar vintage that had the 3/8-20 SAEconnection for a SPG built into the valve. Connection was ON at all times so the tank had to be drained to install or remove the gauge.

Seriously, the yokes were rated for about 2500. Single stage regs should be used at 2250 or below although they seem to function well with an occasional 3000 psi loading. "Standard pressure" in the 50s and early 60s was only 1800. Think hard about where the first stage is going if the yoke fails when inspecting the yoke assy on any reg.

FT
 
Wildstar1063 once bubbled...
Bob3,

I also just bought a new "Duck Bill" valve
(Any one have any Idea how often these
should be replaced?). The one in the unit
was practicly vaulcanized to the metal inside
the Reg.

And is the Royal designed to free-flow if it craps out? or will it just stop providing air all togeather


Replace the duckbill valve when it starts to get "sticky" and you have to exhale too forcefully.
The Royal has a downstream second stage just like most modern regs and will freeflow if there is a first stage leak. If you take the mouthpiece out and let it float up (if you are vertical) the reg will freeflow. (In fact, DH regs breathe best when you are vertical in the water. That's why the single hose was invented!) Just get the mouthpiece lower than the reg and it should stop.

Neil
 
neil once bubbled...

The Royal has a downstream second stage just like most modern regs and will freeflow if there is a first stage leak. If you take the
Really? How about the (not 'Royal') Aquamaster? Isn't that an upstream design? And if so, is the second valve designed to withstand the pressure if the first stage leaks?
In the Nemrod's Snark III there's an overpressure relief valve in the IP-chamber. (and then they called it "a 3-stage regulator"...)
 
I've got a Dacor K valve on one of my tanks that's not all that old - say, maybe 70's? - that's got the fitting for a gauge. So they may not be that rare. I'll have to go look in my junk valve box and see if there are any others.

BTW, re pressure, Cousteau had a real thing about his "baby," the single stage mistral, and his team on the Calypso continued to use them (and without BCs) until at least his death. They had gradually modified them to take higher and higher tank pressures, until they were using super HP 5000 psi tanks- not bad for a 30 year old, single stage reg meant for 1800 psi or so.

Cousteau liked the old regs because of the way they allowed the diver to sense depth and remaining air from the way the reg breathed. He felt that a diver diving this way, without SPG and BC etc came closer to his ideal of the "manfish", diving intuitively rather than by constant reference to gauges.







FredT once bubbled...
There were several tank valves of similar vintage that had the 3/8-20 SAEconnection for a SPG built into the valve. Connection was ON at all times so the tank had to be drained to install or remove the gauge.

Seriously, the yokes were rated for about 2500. Single stage regs should be used at 2250 or below although they seem to function well with an occasional 3000 psi loading. "Standard pressure" in the 50s and early 60s was only 1800. Think hard about where the first stage is going if the yoke fails when inspecting the yoke assy on any reg.

FT
 
So far I've gotten a lot of good information from this post.
I've been writing it all down.

Anyone else have any information or wisdom or stories
about 2 hose regulator diving? Especially that kind of hard
won information that can only be obtained by long experience
with these units?

Maybe comparisons of Two hose units you have used

The proper use of a "J" valve and what to expect when
it lets you know when to switch to the reserve air.

Also things like what to expect from a 2 hose in performance VS
a single hose.

Things like the care and cleaning of the units (I've read that
fungus can grow in the hoses) and proper storage.

There are alot of sites on the web that discuss 2 hose regs,
but very few that actually discuss diving with them.

Are there still any divers who just use weights and a backpack
for the tank? Without the BC or Wet suit? What's it like?
(this part might be a subject for a whole new thread)


I'd like this thread to serve as a resource, for other people
trying to learn the in's and out's of diving with a two
hose Regulator.



Thanks

Wildstar1063 (AKA Chuck E.)
 
Wildstar1063 once bubbled...
Are there still any divers who just use weights and a backpack
for the tank? Without the BC or Wet suit? What's it like?
(this part might be a subject for a whole new thread)

In the immortal words of Mr Richie Havens:

Freeeeeedom!

Part of the don't take it if you don't need it tradition DIR it reviving (sort of)!

FT
 
Wildstar1063 once bubbled...

There are alot of sites on the web that discuss 2 hose regs,
but very few that actually discuss diving with them.
Which sites? (I know only http://www.vintagescubasupply.com/ , http://www.vintagescuba.com/ and http://www.goingunder.net/)

Things like the care and cleaning of the units (I've read that
fungus can grow in the hoses) and proper storage.
see this thread: http://www.scubaboard.com/t18353/sdb738c5548c22d3952637cc29898668f.html

Also things like what to expect from a 2 hose in performance VS
a single hose.
and this: http://www.scubaboard.com/t19544/sdb738c5548c22d3952637cc29898668f.html
..
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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