"Dive"trailer.

[mike_s]

OK. I got frame from HarborFreight already, and looking to build box on it. For some reasons I can not see any pictures in old treads. I found one plan on the web, but it is more of a camping trailer. One part for shower, one part for kitchen. Looks very nice, but I'm looking for something usefull for diving and camping. I want to keep all my diving and camping gear in a trailer in the garage, so when I'm ready, I just hook up trailer to my car.

Since you're wanting it for camping and diving, how about putting truck mount tool boxes on your harbor freight trailer?

ones like these, perhaps bigger?

The only concern you have with a Harbor Freight trailer is most of the max out at 1100 pounds or so payload. You get a bunch of tanks, other gear, coolers, etc and you can easily reach that.

I'd also upgrade those smaller 8" rims/wheels to larger 12" rims/tires. It'll cut down on your axel bearing wear greatly.

 

[Chapik]

I'm thinking something like this one http://http://www.minicampingtrailer.com/

 

[Firefyter]

I'm thinking something like this one http://www.minicampingtrailer.com/

Backing that thing will be a real pain in the rear when it's loaded.....

 

[mike_s]

Backing that thing will be a real pain in the rear when it's loaded.....

backing any trailer that 'short' in tounge length will be a pain. almost impossible. even with a tiny car.

the only benefit is that it's so small he can unhook it and push it back.

 

[daniel f aleman]

Choose materials that don't bleed liquids, such as unpainted wood. I linked the photo above to show an alternative to a rear door style that you see a lot. The hatch style is for day trips to the shore or to carry items to-and-fro the LDS and such.

I also like the EP Hayes model.

 

[Teamcasa]

backing any trailer that 'short' in tounge length will be a pain. almost impossible. even with a tiny car.

the only benefit is that it's so small he can unhook it and push it back.

Maybe a mini cooper! Every time I see one, (a mini cooper) I hear the calliope playing circus music and I wait for the clowns to burst out at any time!


Dave

 

[dave4868]

OK. I'm trying to build myself a small trailer to keep all my equipment in one place. Every time I'm going diving, I'm forgetting something. So I though to put everything in trailer and keep in my garage, which is not connected to my apartment. So, anyone have any suggestions, or maybe a picture of a trailer set-up? Please keep in mind that this is 40"X48" trailer, so no walk in. Also, I was thinking to put my camping gear on it.
Thanks.

My DIY utility trailer bed design won't help you because it's based on a boat trailer with a bigger frame, but I'd like to give you some suggestions.

From the Harbor Freight image you posted, you've got a trailer with the following specs:

40x48" frame. 860 lb capacity. 8" wheels.

Short-coupled, perhaps 60" from ball to axle, from the looks of it.

You want to create a box for it to accomodate one set of open water scuba gear, I assume.

Here's my advice.

With the short coupling, to prevent instability, I'd try to keep the center of gravity low by having a simple plywood deck, low 24" removable plywood sides and no top.

Plan on laying the tanks down.

Use the "built-in slots" in the frame to insert the stakes on the removable sides.

The low height will make it easy to move gear in and out of the trailer. Or take one of the sides off when moving stuff in and out.

The removable sides will also allow you to have a flatbed utility trailer when needed.

Dave C

 

[mike_s]

There's a 6'x10' dive trailer on EBAY. Same one a SB member had for sale here at one time.

$15,000 starting bid.

 

[Hoosier]

As you may remember, I have been on this project.

If you want to pack at least two full sets of gear, you need to get at least 5"x10" size. Otherwise, you can't organize your gear in the trailer except just packing up all gear. And, most small SUV only can handle less than 1500 lb (Max), so you can't go beyond 5x10 size without having a separate trailer brake and I'm stupid cooler.


Based on my research, the most ideal size is 6x10 or 6x12 with a ramp gate, trailer brake and I'm stupid cooler. It will be about $3K for the brand new one and $2K in the used one.



Just my 2 bar...

 

[mddolson]

Mike, I have one of these little utility trailers.
It was very inexpensive, so I can't complain.(total cost under $200)
It's 48" long, x 40" between the fenders.
I put a 3/4 inch plywood floor and 1/2" sidewalls , 20" high.
It's rated for 1200 lbs and is great for hauling tanks.

But as you caution it's a pain to back up. The tounge should be longer.
Yes , you're right, it's easier to unhook it and push it back in when we're done with it.
A couple of 30" ABS pipes at the back corners help so I can see it when backing up.
I drive a Blazer

I use it as a garden utility trailer, with a lawn tractor when the need occurs.
It's much better in that application

Mike D

backing any trailer that 'short' in tounge length will be a pain. almost impossible. even with a tiny car.

the only benefit is that it's so small he can unhook it and push it back.