I just left R4 a few hours ago, after 12 days, 21 dives. I have been twice before - both times on Mermaid LOB... 10yrs and 5yrs ago.
I do not think it is nearly as good as I remember... fish-wise or coral-wise. But of couse how good is my memory v/s how much has it changed??? Some of both likely. Too many people, climate change, overfishing... the reefs will degrade. When I went 10yrs ago it was already much worse than 10yrs before. It was still great diving, and I will come back, but Im not in a rush.
I could have stayed as long as I wanted, but decided I was done. Mostly done with repetitive lackluster food at homestays, rats in my bed, no hot shower for a couple weeks... I can be a dirtbag for months, but I also feel the value of R4 homestay-life is lacking and I decided I had enough. Diving-wise, I could do more. Next time I will stay at a nicer place... I would have this time but they were booked.
I dove with Arborek Dive Center and Tarzan. Both top operators.
My first Blue Magic was nothing short of magic. No other groups were there. I had my own dive guide, and we had amazing manta encounters. My guide got a >3min video of a manta just circling us and playing. That was one of several great encounters on that dive. But we went there again this afternoon and it was PACKED. Way too many divers getting way too close... Scared them all off. I saw one manta.
I did also have a fantastic trip to Manta Sandy. Again we were the only group, and it was swarming with mantas.
I also went to Melissas Garden and was not blown away like I was 10yrs ago. Maybe it was memory, or the sunlight, or the guide not diving the site very well... I think a bit of all that.
I did not get to Misool, so I cant speak to how that has changed.
It's an open ocean. And unfortunatly there are many divers and operators who do not dive the way others would like them to. It sucks that this acitity ruins it for others. But diving is no different than many other things in that respect. Perhaps Thanos will fix it. Until then, I shall continue to dive, and enjoy as much as I can.