DIR Manifold

[true]

I'd say that it's a wash between the 200 and 300 bar with respect to strength-- the weak link is the stem going in the regulator 1st stage, not the threads of the manifold. Personally, I have all 300 bar so that all of my gear is standardized. Halcyon makes both its manifolds and single tank valves in 200 and 300 bar fittings.

Best,
anthony

 

[WaterDawg]

Anthony,

Any chance we might see the Halcyon manifold have a protected burst disk nut in the future? I know the Thermo manifold have it, but all the DR and Halcyon Manifolds Ive seen/have do NOT.

Also, thank you for your participation in the thread.

 

[true]

While I can understand the aesthetic choice of the recessed nut, from a practical standpoint I don't think we'll see much support for changing our design from the staff. I'm sure it's happened to _someone_, but in our history of selling manifolds nobody here can remember a single instance of a manifold damaged becaused the burst disk nut wasn't protected. It's not going to be a priority to change the casting to protect against something that almost never is an issue.

Best,
Anthony

 

[Robert Phillips]

Anthony,
Thank you very much for the very interesting info on the Halcyon manifold. You guys have obviously put a lot of thought into the design of the inner workings of the valves.

Am I correct in assuming that these where recent (in the last year or so) design improvements and that older Halcyon manifolds are basically the same manifolds as sold by Sea Elite?
Obviously, if this were the case, it would not matter as I feel both valves are of high quality, the newer Halcyon's just being higher.

Thanks again,
Robert

 

[Dan Gibson]

Then again, maybe its not a wash. I seem to recall some thread about 200 BAR not working out to well if one uses SS DIN inserts. The 300 BAR threads don't get boogered up when you remove the plug under presure. Supposedly the 200 BAR stands a better chance of damage when relieving the pressure.

I have no clue if this really is the case.

I'd say that it's a wash between the 200 and 300 bar with respect to strength-- the weak link is the stem going in the regulator 1st stage, not the threads of the manifold. Personally, I have all 300 bar so that all of my gear is standardized. Halcyon makes both its manifolds and single tank valves in 200 and 300 bar fittings.

Best,
anthony

 

[cool_hardware52]

Then again, maybe its not a wash. I seem to recall some thread about 200 BAR not working out to well if one uses SS DIN inserts. The 300 BAR threads don't get boogered up when you remove the plug under presure. Supposedly the 200 BAR stands a better chance of damage when relieving the pressure.

I have no clue if this really is the case.

Every 300 bar din valve I've ever seen has a relief hole in the side. This is primarily to prevent a 200 bar reg from pressurizing at all. The short 200 reg won't seat the Oring and the when you turn on the valve it vents out the small hole just ahead of the oring sealing surface. If you pressurize a SS din plug in a 300 bar you only need to back it out a little to uncover this small hole.

I've seen some 200 bar din valves (all my thermos) that have the small vent, and some, DiveRite for example that do not.

I suppose that one could have a problem removing a SS din plug from a unvented 200 bar, both in terms of thread damage, and some small risk to personel from the plug itself, but in practice I doubt. The threads themselves aren't going to be gas tight for long, just back off the Din Plug a little and wait, the tiny volume of gas trapped in the valve will bleed off through the threads.



Tobin

 

[dbg40]

The sea elite valves are very good.

 

[Dan Gibson]

The only problem is the O-ring generally extrudes through the pin hole on 300 BAR manifolds. It has also has happened to me on single 200 BAR DIN valves. My 200 Bar manifold (I believe a Sea Elite) has them as well. It takes quite a bit of force using a wrench when the O-ring extrudes through the pin hole. The gas was not escaping around the threads. I have no idea why. I would have thought it would have as well. Maybe I just didn't wait long enough, but it took several minutes with small turns with the wrench and waiting for the gas to escape. I took more turns than I had anticipated before the thing finally when poof.

I think one of the guys on TDS came up with the thread damage warning.

Every 300 bar din valve I've ever seen has a relief hole in the side. This is primarily to prevent a 200 bar reg from pressurizing at all. The short 200 reg won't seat the Oring and the when you turn on the valve it vents out the small hole just ahead of the oring sealing surface. If you pressurize a SS din plug in a 300 bar you only need to back it out a little to uncover this small hole.

I've seen some 200 bar din valves (all my thermos) that have the small vent, and some, DiveRite for example that do not.

I suppose that one could have a problem removing a SS din plug from a unvented 200 bar, both in terms of thread damage, and some small risk to personel from the plug itself, but in practice I doubt. The threads themselves aren't going to be gas tight for long, just back off the Din Plug a little and wait, the tiny volume of gas trapped in the valve will bleed off through the threads.



Tobin

 

[cool_hardware52]

The only problem is the O-ring generally extrudes through the pin hole on 300 BAR manifolds. It has also has happened to me on single 200 BAR DIN valves. My 200 Bar manifold (I believe a Sea Elite) has them as well. It takes quite a bit of force using a wrench when the O-ring extrudes through the pin hole. The gas was not escaping around the threads. I have no idea why. I would have thought it would have as well. Maybe I just didn't wait long enough, but it took several minutes with small turns with the wrench and waiting for the gas to escape. I took more turns than I had anticipated before the thing finally when poof.

I think one of the guys on TDS came up with the thread damage warning.

Dan, I've never had the oring crawl out the vent hole :11: , but I have had a couple of occassions where SS Din Plugs got "energized" In both cases I tore up the oring. I assumed it was friction on the face seal.

Now I have to go try one and see with some soapy "snoop" if they do eventually leak past the threads. Can't see how it won't, the threads aren't tapered......


More when I know it.



Tobin

 

[Jason B]

Tobin, I'm interested in what you find. I use a 200 bar sea elite and when my SS din plugs get "energized" it takes a few turns (tough ones) and then the gas seems to escape as you describe. Kinds scary the first time.