DIN VS YOKE

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My attitude is that if a dive operation cannot support my DIN regs directly coupled to a tank, i.e. without a yoke adapter, then i'll find another company to dive with that can.
 
Like Lorenzoid, I started out using DIN because I was convinced by the ScubaBoard Received Wisdom that it was a better mousetrap. I've mostly switched to yoke except for twinsets and stage/pony bottles.

The adapters do move the reg closer to your head and depending on your body shape, BC, etc., you may hit your head. I do.

I have also found that the dive ops I have used are mostly switching to convertible valves with the inserts, but:
- As Lorenzoid says, they have to find an allen wrench and take the insert out. There are two "standard" sizes of wrench required to get the inserts out, and neither one is part of a typical fold-up save-a-dive tool. The insert is sometimes stuck and has to be muscled loose.
- On some valves the insert will be so stuck, that they will have to get you another cylinder.
- For many ops, only some of the cylinders have convertible valves, and so if you ask for a special cylinder (larger than 80, smaller than 80, nitrox) you may end up with a problem because they can't just trade out with the person next to you
- You do sometimes end up starting out the dive being perceived as the special snowflake who is holding up the whole boat while the DM deals with your goofy regulators

If you have your own cylinders but take them someplace to get them filled, you may find that the shop that fills them only has one yoke-to-din adapter, so that it takes longer to get fills especially if you drop off a half dozen cylinders at once.

Now, as for safety and reliability, there are really only two problems with yoke that matter:
1) If you are diving a stage or pony with the valve closed, it is possible to loosen the yoke clamp when it is your intention to open the valve, because they feel similar, especially with gloves on.
2) If the regulator isn't properly aligned and the clamp properly tightened, it is possible for the o-ring to extrude during the dive leading to a rapid loss of gas. This will generally happen on the surface or towards the beginning of the dive, when the pressure is highest, but can happen later in the dive you bump into something with the reg. If you pay attention when you put the reg on and do it right it won't happen.

DIN valves are not as rugged as yoke valves which is the main reason dive ops don't like them. The valve is more easily bent to the point where the threaded opening is out of round, if the cylinder is handled roughly with no regulator attached.
 
Only have a bit of experience on the West Coast but so far all the tanks I have used have been convertible. I have a little zippered pocket in my regulator bag where I keep the allen wrench, the DIN adaptor, and a spare tank insert from my own tank, just in case I manage to destroy or lose the shop/boat insert. So far, no problems.
 
All DINs here for local diving. When travelling I take the convertor.
I used to have both but found that I would take the wrong regulator to a dive site. Yes, it sounds stupid an maybe I''m stupid but it did happen so I converted all of them to DIN. Now when I travel, my checklist includes the adaptor. Unfortunately I have see only a few places where the tanks have DIN/K valves.
 
For sidemount, DIN means one less knob cluttering up the valve/reg area that you're wrapping with a bungee loop and tucking under your arm pit. I have DIN locally, but plan to take an adaptor for travel.
 
There are two "standard" sizes of wrench required to get the inserts out, and neither one is part of a typical fold-up save-a-dive tool.

This is a huge bug bear of mine.

There are many many more variance of size's. Some inserts have metric Hex, others have imperial with multiple variations in sizes. I carry one complete set of each type of hex key incase I need to convert a cylinder for someone. Why oh why the industry could not sell on one size.

I'm Din across the board. This side of the world convertible valves are standard. All the places I've dived in Asia Indonesia etc all have Din cylinders available, although I do carry a adaptor just in case.

If I was diving In US/Mexico - I'd probably convert my regs back to A clamp for the duration of the trip to save hassle
 
DIN for me, I have the hex to remove inserts, and also the light weight Scubapro adapter if I can't get hold of DIN or convertible tanks.

I take both on board dive boats at all times, more than once did I have to take an insert out or get the adapter ready for the second tank because no second DIN tank was loaded for me - since it's such an alien thing in Australia.

Despite the extra effort in this part of the world there is no way I would not buy DIN.
 
For sidemount, DIN means one less knob cluttering up the valve/reg area that you're wrapping with a bungee loop and tucking under your arm pit. I have DIN locally, but plan to take an adaptor for travel.
A yoke villain, for side mount, is the yoke dust cap. It might be best left on the surface.

Trying to unbungee a yoke tank on two dives, worked fine the first time. The second time the bungee loop, nylon tank leach, and dust cap all locked up, with the bungee half undone. Unclipping the tank and looking at it from all angles didn't help. After swimming with it half down, I eventually managed to rebungeed it and decided to dealt with it later on the surface. I wasn't super careful on which part lay under which other part, but just a heads up for those that have not screwed this up yet.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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