Din Care and Maintenance??

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HarveyO

Contributor
Messages
151
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Location
Honolulu Hawaii
# of dives
100 - 199
I've been diving with a yoke set up for the last year and have recently started diving with my own tanks (Faber HP 120's in single configuration one set up for air and one set up for Nitrox).

As I'm using my own tanks almost exclusively these days I'm starting to think about converting my first stage from yoke to DIN and remove the K inserts from the tank valves. I figure I can always use the yoke adapter on my first stage on the few rare occasions I'm renting tanks.

My questions to the Ohana are?
Does this seem resonable? and What do I do about keeping the tank valve threads healthy?

I was in the Dive Shop yesterday and they showed me a tank where the valve threads were getting so badly pitted that it was getting difficult to attach a first stage. They were saying that If I go DIN, I should from time to time put some silicone grease on my tank valve threads . Does that seem like a good idea to you all? What about with the Nitrox?

Thanks for the feedback.
 
Many O2 regulator (DIN) are using the chritolube instead of the silicone lube, but up to 40%, the silicone lube is fine. Actually, I don't put any thing on the valve thread.

Instead, I completely dry out the valve with an air after detaching the 1st stage and put the DIN plug like this:

ssdinpluglg.jpg


http://www.divesports.com/mall/xsscuba_acc_ssdinplug.asp
 
Harvey - I'm doing the same thing you plan on and it is working well for me. I have not had any corrosion issues thus far after 2 years, however I can see what they mean - be sure to dry out your valve before putting a cap on, and if you feel the need to put some silicone on it I'd go with christolube.

Let us know what you decide

Aloha, Tim
 
kidspot:
Harvey - I'm doing the same thing you plan on and it is working well for me. I have not had any corrosion issues thus far after 2 years, however I can see what they mean - be sure to dry out your valve before putting a cap on, and if you feel the need to put some silicone on it I'd go with christolube.

Let us know what you decide

Aloha, Tim
Yeah I forgot to mention that I ordered the plugs and I'll probably use the christolube. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Hey Hoosier, By Hawaii prices the place on your link is unreal. Thanks for the tip. I could have saved a bundle on my tanks. Even with shipping!!!
 
HarveyO:
Hey Hoosier, By Hawaii prices the place on your link is unreal. Thanks for the tip. I could have saved a bundle on my tanks. Even with shipping!!!

Phill is our board member, too. He is running the special for the board member on the plugs. He actually charged the actual shipping, even to Canada. Call or email him first is the best bet.:D
 
Hi Harvey,
I wish I’d gone DIN originally but…I went DIN a year ago and personally very pleased although it is always a bit of a challenge to step outside the box. I’ve developed a reputation - those tanks. Switching was easy, took 5 minutes but did have to special order it. Atomic pays for shipping and it came in FedEx Priority Overnight.

My tanks came with the Yoke nut in them and even I felt comfortable getting the nut out safely – geeze they were tight. I was told by dealer and several LDS no need to lube, just rinse and dry things. For plugs I use the plastic ones. Just loop it around dry bag handles to find it again nice and dry and air blast everything else dry, no pitting so far.
I also bring my tanks boat diving and get fill compensated for not using the Ops included tanks. It’s more work for me but the diving is better, I get beat up with an AL80.

The Yoke adapter has been useful considering most people and shops are Yoke although I wouldn’t consider it for everyday use, its pain – literally, but I’m short.
One thing I’ve found is it’s easy to get the adapter connected tight enough I can’t get it apart by hand with little leverage in tight space. Thank goodness for Vice Grips and duct tape, now I avoid anyone else figuring out how to do it for me.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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