Differences between Jacket, Back-Inflate, BP/W

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

No pic, however, back in the day, we would use one of the metal weight belt buckles and put it on one of the shoulder straps. Of course this was on the old plastic backpacks, but would work on a BP/W as well.

I have one somewhere, probably a box not opened from my move, that I used for the pool. If I find it I'll post a picture.


Bob
So this idea would NOT require sewing the webbing, because there are enough slots on buckles to get a solid grip, right? actually have a plastic pinch release buckle that might work, needs a closer look. Thank you!
 
Does a Hogarthian rigged BP&W need a quick release?

Maybe, I won't say there is no application for some form of QR, or harness extender, etc.

However in my experience few really need them, but a majority of divers transitioning from a conventional vest / jacket BC to a BP&W are pretty certain they *must* have one.

It's the classic pre purchase perception. The post purchase reality is usually different.

Why? The typical Vest / jacket bc lacks a crotch strap, and usually has little more than fabric between the diver and the cylinder.

In a (often futile) effort to keep the BC from riding up, and or the tank from flopping around divers ratchet their harness very, very snug. In this condition there is little chance of doffing the BC without a QR or some form of release.

Divers who have never used a properly set up Hogarthian Harness on a back plate assume they will have to run their Hogarthian Harness just as snug.

They don't. With shoulder straps *and* waist strap *and* a crotch strap a Hog harness simply positions the plate on the divers body, and the plate takes the flop or roll out of the cylinder.

The typical Hog harness is run much looser than a Vest / jacket harness. Not sloppy loose, but no where near as snug as most jacket harnesses.

This is what allows donning and doffing a Hog harness.

And that's when the post purchase reality becomes apparent.

Of course plenty of suppliers are happy to sell to the Pre Purchase Perception......

Tobin
 
I'm still figuring out where to put my octo as there is a lack of octo pockets that would be uncommon in jacket BCDs. Can't come out with a satisfactory solution yet as of now (maybe I'm reading too much DIR articles, resulting in me thinking that the longhose configuration is the only way to not interrupt the "perfect balance" of the BP/W:wink:)

Octo placement shouldn't be hard. While I am recently convinced of the utility and benefit of a longhose, there are other options. At this point bending the hose to stick it through a small pocket or D-ring seems like it would likely impact the hose over time so that wouldn't be my preferred method.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...=2OrTXi-hjv4&usg=AOvVaw3wwU5uqLO73zz-lTa1P8wT

That video explains some of the hose placement mentioned. Additionally, you could attach one of these to your right shoulder D-ring: Octo Silicone Strap , to have a secondary take setup.

Thank you! Putting together my first bp/w after 30 years of jackets, but when tired after dive, quick release is a treat. Need 3 set ups, so $390.00 vs making my own for very little requires some reflection.

Deep6 is having a 25% off sale all month so definitely like them out on FB to get the code. You can also use an affiliate code to save an additional 5%.
 
If you want the strength and construction of steel but want lightweight, Dive Rite makes a lighter SS BP
I don't have experience with this BP as both of my plates are both full SS
My wife and I have the lightweight DiveRite stainless steel backplate for warm water, and have the regular DiveRite ones for everywhere else. Lots of cutouts to make it lighter, plus thinner gauge stainless. And it looks very cool! It's about 3 lbs lighter than the steel one

Compared to an aluminum backplate, it weighs about the same, but is slightly more negative buoyant because stainless steel is denser than aluminum. If you scratch anodized aluminum it will start to oxidize, no similar problem with stainless

I also used it in Florida diving with steel doubles, where I didn't need any lead and didn't want to be overweighted. In Palau I'll dive with about 2 lbs of lead with the lightweight backplate; with my regular one I'd be too heavy by a couple of pounds
 
My wife and I got certified in jacket BCs. She's small, and the smallest one never fit her right. Mine fit, but I found I would stop moving, and all the air inside would keep moving, making it hard to get properly trimmed. There's typically a lot of fabric on jacket BCs, which has a little buoyancy and traps tiny air bubbles, so right off the bat you'll need more weight compared to a backplate setup with just a harness and wing (someone told me a Zeagle Ranger is something like 8 lbs positively buoyant just because of all the fabric, not sure if I believe that or not). From my own experience, if you go from a jacket BC to a 6 lb stainless backplate, you'll be able to take off a bit more than 6 lbs of lead once you get things figured out after a few dives

I have both continuous webbing harnesses and comfortable harnesses with padded shoulders and quick release buckles. To each his own, but I find the continuous webbing less comfortable, particularly for a long walk for a beach dive, even with a 7mm wetsuit and hooded vest. In the water, you won't feel any difference. And if you have different thickness suits, or go from wetsuit to drysuit, a comfortable harness like the DiveRite Transplate is definitely easier to deal with

I still have my jacket BC. I use it in the pool and don't really care what the chlorine does to it. It's pretty indestructible

My wife won't dive with anything except her backplate setup. Unlike jacket or back inflate BCs, you can size a backplate and harness exactly to fit you
 
So this idea would NOT require sewing the webbing, because there are enough slots on buckles to get a solid grip, right? actually have a plastic pinch release buckle that might work, needs a closer look. Thank you!

You could just leave a small loop on the shoulder strap, add a triglide at the buckle (each side) so it doesn't slide, keep the webbing in one piece. I have a slider on mine, I find I never need to slide it more than a couple of inches. Might need a bit more for 7mm suit, still you shouldn't need a big loop in there.
 
You could just leave a small loop on the shoulder strap, add a triglide at the buckle (each side) so it doesn't slide, keep the webbing in one piece. I have a slider on mine, I find I never need to slide it more than a couple of inches. Might need a bit more for 7mm suit, still you shouldn't need a big loop in there.
So for a sternum/chest strap, two of these “2 to 1 point quick disconnect triglides” would mean you could wear a chest strap or not, depending on how loose you wanted your harness: $15 each.
Tactical Link Quick Disconnect 2-To-1-Point Sling Convertible Triglide - 1.25"
Is there a less expensive way?
But for loosening side straps, would you have two regular triglides behind two buckles, each attached to two loops on shoulder strap? Not sure I am picturing your shoulder strap suggestion correctly.
 
Oh. I've no chest strap, I would probably try a pair of these DGX Offset S/S Rigid D-Ring with a bungee and a bolt snap or something, maybe after banging on them with a hammer.

No, I was thinking if you have 2" side-squeeze plastic buckle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018Q1UA1...t=&hvlocphy=9018944&hvtargid=pla-319846601208 you could put it on the shoulder strap without cutting the strap or needing to sew anything. Whereas if you used a weight belt buckle, as suggested upthread, you'd have to cut the strap.

Looking at it again, I may have misread your post.
 
What about lift? I'm not really planning on a lot of cold water diving. The mid 60s is about as cold as I'll go.
I dive with a 25# wing. Ss sta and soon a hp100. And still have plenty of lift. Tbone is a wealth of knowledge and he helped me get my wing setup.
 
Octo placement shouldn't be hard. While I am recently convinced of the utility and benefit of a longhose, there are other options. At this point bending the hose to stick it through a small pocket or D-ring seems like it would likely impact the hose over time so that wouldn't be my preferred method.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi766LnlrLXAhXs7oMKHTzLD10QtwIILzAC&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OrTXi-hjv4&usg=AOvVaw3wwU5uqLO73zz-lTa1P8wT

That video explains some of the hose placement mentioned. Additionally, you could attach one of these to your right shoulder D-ring: Octo Silicone Strap , to have a secondary take setup.



Deep6 is having a 25% off sale all month so definitely like them out on FB to get the code. You can also use an affiliate code to save an additional 5%.
Put it on a necklace.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom