D9 Battery change "How To"

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D9tx Oring

Captain_HX:

I am puzzled with your picture. Never saw before that type of proprietary Oring in suuntos, only in some Mares models such as the Excel. I did change the battery of a D9tx about a year ago and I can assure you was identical to that of the D9. Furthermore, I regularly obtain my odd measures Orings from an ebay US provider under the name of Battastic. As per today, he still sells the same Oring for the D9 and D9tx. Another provider of dive computer Orings on ebay (UK) is stalkera. He also sells the same Oring for both Suunto computers. I suggest you mail your picture to both of them and see what they have to say.

Excuse me for the stupid question: your computer is a D9tx or the new DX? I ask because I have not opened the first DX yet and could not tell about the Oring. But, if indeed it is a D9tx, the charming gang of Suunto designers decided to replace the Oring for a proprietary model that you got to buy from them, except that they would´t sell it to you. Only to authorized Suunto repair centers which will charge you about US$ 100 for the job.

Sorry for not being able to provide further help. At any rate, keep us informed about the case so we all can learn from your experience.

hi Arturo

thanks for your reply :cheers:

i opened the d9tx earlier today and i noticed that the oring is not the standard d9 oring. it looks like a purpose made oring for suunto.

View attachment 169157

the question now is from where to get the oring? :huh::huh::huh::huh: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
thanks for your reply

this is a d9tx bought nearly 2 years ago from singapore. maybe this type of oring is fitted on d9tx's sold in the asia market.

what worries me the most is that i found rust on the oring and this is why i would like the computer to be sent to suunto as its still under warranty.

Captain_HX:

I am puzzled with your picture. Never saw before that type of proprietary Oring in suuntos, only in some Mares models such as the Excel. I did change the battery of a D9tx about a year ago and I can assure you was identical to that of the D9. Furthermore, I regularly obtain my odd measures Orings from an ebay US provider under the name of Battastic. As per today, he still sells the same Oring for the D9 and D9tx. Another provider of dive computer Orings on ebay (UK) is stalkera. He also sells the same Oring for both Suunto computers. I suggest you mail your picture to both of them and see what they have to say.

Excuse me for the stupid question: your computer is a D9tx or the new DX? I ask because I have not opened the first DX yet and could not tell about the Oring. But, if indeed it is a D9tx, the charming gang of Suunto designers decided to replace the Oring for a proprietary model that you got to buy from them, except that they would´t sell it to you. Only to authorized Suunto repair centers which will charge you about US$ 100 for the job.

Sorry for not being able to provide further help. At any rate, keep us informed about the case so we all can learn from your experience.
 
Captain_HX:

1. I concur that the rust on the Oring is very odd and simply should´t be there. I´ve only seen that happening in flooded Suuntos.

2. If if still is under warranty, I would close it back and send it to an authorized service center for a battery change. If you tell Suunto you open the D9tx, you would loose your warranty.

3. You can find all kinds of fakes and replica watches sold over in Singapore and I hope yours is an original Suunto. The guys at the service center will let you know right away.

4. Wish you good luck and appreciate if you let us know how the story ends.
 
Very informative and helpful all done now apart from jumping in the shower and testing it��

Thank you
 
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I hate to say this, but manufacturers generally can tell if a unit has been opened.That will void your warranty. Period. I understand why it's tempting to go ahead and try to save money by DIY, but if a manufacturer wants it sent back to them, it's because there is a good reason. There are other o rings that get changed, on the buttons, software is checked, all kinds of things. They are depth tested. Jumping into a shower is not a depth test.

What generally happens is a consumer tinkers with something and does not get it right on reassembly or run into something they did not expect. They shrug their shoulders and reuse things like o rings and get it not quite right. No depth test is done. (Jumping in a shower is useless) Then they go diving and it floods or malfunctions. Then they send it back and indicators show (believe me, they show, it's very, very tough to get something past the factory. They see everything you can possibly imagine and some you can't. Any warranty consideration from them under these circumstances is pure, unadulterated mercy) The customer is informed there will be a charge, and the consumer gets upset. "I paid $1500.00 for this! What am I supposed to do now! You make a crappy product! etc!"

You are not likely to find that o ring. If they can see you opened it, and see rust, expect to pay. You violated the terms of the warranty, which both parties have responsibilities because it is a CONTRACT between the two of you.Contracts go both ways. If they had opened and saw that you did NOT open it, it would have most likely be covered.

They generally try to use things in these high end units to discourage people trying to mess around with them. It's always a risk with these expensive models, you don't get it right, it floods, and the consumer is very, very upset at the cost. This is a customer service nightmare for them. It's a dead loss.

I have done thousands of battery changes, and when a manufacturer says it ought to go back, it ought to go back. If I as a technician screw it up, it's on me to make it right, which is very expensive. If I as a diver screw it up. I pay.

If the factory screws it up, they will likely simply fix it, make it right, and the end user will never be the wiser. And they warranty it. I see consumers dodge and weave and try to get around it for various reasons (some very good, like you can't find a authorized service center for love or money)

And it works. Until does not. And it's always at the worst moment when it does not. Been doing this a long time. I'm sorry for your trouble, I truly am, but don't be surprised if this winds up being expensive.
 
Hi ,

I know this is far far too late to continue this thread but still perhaps can see this.....

I had similar experience with my D9. Somehow it unscrews itself.
Sure enough it somehow partly flooded.
I had dried it out and replaced battery again and now it 'half' works.
So now it shows the time but when i put it i any dive mode it gets 'stack' and only way to reset it it to re-sit the battery.

I have already said my final prayers for it and will not use for diving however Im interested how to remove the insides of it to estimate the actual damage inside.
Can anybody share some instructions how to remove the 'insides' of the D9 from its shell.

regards....mariuszm











Since you already sent your computer to Suunto, probably my thoughts are too late to help you. At any rate, here they are:

a) What are you using to screw the retainer ring? There is a special wrench to open (and close) back cases.

b) The module does come out from the back of the D9. You don´t need to remove the front glass to do that. Is not a simple operation and you have to be extremely careful not to harm the four internal reeds that are operated by the four push buttons. More important, have them well aligned when reassembling the unit.

c) Did you try using a new O ring? Maybe the one you are using has lost compressibility and pushes back the retainer ring.

Post the outcome when you get it back from Suunto.
 
Very interesting thread, thanks to all who contributed.

I am interested to see that there is so little information on the actual o-ring; available sources of exact replacements - noting original diameters and material composition. I would assume there are other variables to an o-ring than its measured size: elasticity for one thing, compressive strength, etc. While I am sorely tempted, I feel some skepticism in purchasing an o-ring from an anonymous eebayer. For those who had failures, I would love to know the source. Did the outward appearances match?

Also, for those with failures, could there be any reason to consider the amount or application, or kind of the silicone? I use Dow Corning 111 (a very fine high temperature, high pressure lube) on my espresso machines but I wouldn't know if it is good for the rubber compound in the original Suunto o-ring. Also, when tightening the case - might it be good practice to screw it back as if you were tapping a thread, forward 15 degrees, back 5, until tight - so as to 'break' any bond between the case and o-ring that may cause tension on the ring?

Just to clarify... I am totally pro DIY - not knocking the spirit of self reliance of this thread.

EDIT, I notice my old Oceanic kits use Ikelite #0184.1 Silicone Lube
 
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Mariuszm:

I do not think that the "self unscrewing" personality of the D9 is related at all to the silicon grease used to lubricate the Oring. I have always used a standard diving silicon grease for every other (more than 350) computer I´ve replaced the battery and have not observed this behavior in any of them.
 
I hate to say this, but manufacturers generally can tell if a unit has been opened.That will void your warranty.

If the computer only has a one year warranty, then sure, dont do it while it is still under warranty.

If you computer is 2, 3, or even 5 years old, you have no warranty to lose.
Sure it could cost you money if you stuff it up, but that is part of the learning curve.
And if you do stuff up a computer that is very old, its a great excuse to buy a new one.

---------- Post added February 27th, 2015 at 12:50 PM ----------

I am interested to see that there is so little information on the actual o-ring; available sources of exact replacements

You can buy the kits on ebay.
I recently got one and the guy sent me a flat battery, so instead of a replacement, I asked him to send me 5 o rings instead.
Worked out well for me as the batteries are easy to source.

---------- Post added February 27th, 2015 at 12:58 PM ----------

I wish I would of seen this thread a couple of weeks ago....Paid $160 today for the full service on my D9!

Woah they only wanted $125 in Australia to do mine.

I found all the kit on Ebay for about $65 (that inc transmitter battery and o rings).

---------- Post added February 27th, 2015 at 01:05 PM ----------

If you want to explicitly buy the variant of the 3V lithium battery with the "smaller diameter part being as high as half of the battery", the right model is called CR2450N, not just CR2450.

Good to know, thanks for that info.

---------- Post added February 27th, 2015 at 01:08 PM ----------

Stinger O ring (in mm) ID = 39,5; cross section = 1mm

D9 O ring (in mm) ID= 37,5; cross section= 1,2 mm.

Hope somebody can tell us where to get those akward O ring sizes.

Anyone?
 
If you change the battery yourself you may want to change the straps every 5 years or so too.
Mine broke in half recently. About 8 years old I guess.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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