D300s flash question

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Harry,

Just a suggestion. Try this:

Camera on ISO100
use between f22-f29
shutter 1/100th
strobes on your TTL setting and then try manual strobes full power. Strobe in really close and on a 45 degree angle to your camera.

Does it get you started and the desired shot your after?

Regards Mark

Can't set ISO 100, ISO 200 is the lowest
Shutter is fixed at 1/60, that's one of my main problems
 
I just bought a Nikon D300s, Nikon 60mm lens, Nauticam housing, and Inon Z240 strobes. And I am having some issues that I do not understand.

In the program/TTL mode with the strobes in Low TTL mode, all of my macro photos are constantly over-exposed by 1 or 2 stops. I would think that $1,500 Nikon would be able to expose photos correctly right out of the box. I am using ISO 320 and all of the exposure compensation functions are disabled. WTF?

Is there any way to use a faster shutter speed than 1/60 in the flash mode? Looks like I can set the shutter speed from 1/60 to 30 seconds. Isn't there any other way to shoot at a faster speed? Are all of my underwater shots flash photos going to be at 1/60?

I suppose that I could shoot in the manual mode, but in that case why did I pay all this money for automatic TTL capability? Don't get me wrong - I had been shooting exclusively in the manual mode with my old P&S camera for the past few years. I am just trying to figure out how to let this expensive camera do the work for me.

I'm not an expert by any stretch of anyone's imagination and have no formal training.

I shoot macro with the D300 Ikelite housing and Ikelite strobes. Lens 105 macro. I have the histogram displayed during preview mode and adjust the TTL to accommodate the needs of the photo.

I shoot in manual mode.

Shutter control on C but in the future on S.

Manipulation of the shutter speed controls how blurred the background is or used to give a continuous blue hue or black back drop to the photo. I tend to find a setting and leave it for most of my pics.

ISO 200

I aim the strobe centered over the lens but behind it and tilted slightly up.

Even though the camera setting is manual it's easy to shoot and if your subject stays still you can tryout different settings.

None of these are my ideas I picked up a lot from Underwater Photography by Martin Edge.

A few pics from Bonaire on Flickr. Search my last name Flaris.

Good Luck




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Can't set ISO 100, ISO 200 is the lowest
Shutter is fixed at 1/60, that's one of my main problems

I believe you can get ISO100 out of your D300s in one of the custom settings. On my Nikon D90 its called Lo1. Sorry I am not familar with the settings on the D300s to help you in this regards.

You shoot the camera in manual (M) mode?

Cheers Mark
 
I believe you can get ISO100 out of your D300s in one of the custom settings. On my Nikon D90 its called Lo1. Sorry I am not familar with the settings on the D300s to help you in this regards.

You shoot the camera in manual (M) mode?

Cheers Mark

Yes I shoot manual. Fairly usual from speaking with other photographers. I like the versatility. But I tend to shoot macro mainly.

It's L01 for ISO 100.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Shutter is fixed at 1/60, that's one of my main problems

It shouldn't be fixed at 1/60 in manual. You should be able to
set anything up to at least 1/250th with the strobe on. RTFM and
figure out how to set the shutter speed higher.

And there's got to be some reason Nikon calls ISO 100 "L01". Like
the potential to fill up the pixel with photons and blow it out?
 
I didn't notice anyone mentioning this upthread, but you may want to check your EV setting. When I am photographing something like an insect on a white wall, I will make it positive because otherwise the subject is underexposed because most of the frame is white. If I forget to change it back, then it will overexpose if I am taking a photo of a normal scene.

If you haven't accidentally left it positive, you can also try making it negative, which should underexpose (or if you are consistently overexposing with it neutral, should help you get the right exposure).
 
blow it out?? why??

The sensor "counts photons". To get a high ISO, they multiply the
"photon count". To get a really low ISO, they divide, but there
may have been enough exposure to "fill the photon bucket" at
the brighter pixels.
 
"And there's got to be some reason Nikon calls ISO 100 "L01". Like
the potential to fill up the pixel with photons and blow it out?"

I believe that's to indicate that 200 is the base ISO for that particular sensor, and anything lower is "lower" than that base. A bit of truth in advertising.

I shoot Nikon above the water, but my underwater camera is a DC1200. It's lowest rated ISO is 64, and there's no way I believe that that itty bitty sensor has a base ISO of 64.

;-)

coop
 

Back
Top Bottom