D300s flash question

[Doc Harry]

I just bought a Nikon D300s, Nikon 60mm lens, Nauticam housing, and Inon Z240 strobes. And I am having some issues that I do not understand.

In the program/TTL mode with the strobes in Low TTL mode, all of my macro photos are constantly over-exposed by 1 or 2 stops. I would think that $1,500 Nikon would be able to expose photos correctly right out of the box. I am using ISO 320 and all of the exposure compensation functions are disabled. WTF?

Is there any way to use a faster shutter speed than 1/60 in the flash mode? Looks like I can set the shutter speed from 1/60 to 30 seconds. Isn't there any other way to shoot at a faster speed? Are all of my underwater shots flash photos going to be at 1/60?

I suppose that I could shoot in the manual mode, but in that case why did I pay all this money for automatic TTL capability? Don't get me wrong - I had been shooting exclusively in the manual mode with my old P&S camera for the past few years. I am just trying to figure out how to let this expensive camera do the work for me.

 

[Coop42]

I only shoot nikon above water, using nikon flashes, but sounds like the problem is with the flashes not quenching fast enough. The auto ttl is designed to work with a nikon flash, either on camera or using their cls system. Does the inon support cls, or are they Optically tethered?

You said that the flashes are on low; is there away to set an exposure comp on them, and then run the rest on auto? You did say that the overexposure was fairly consistent.

 

[Doc Harry]

The strobes with FO connections are supposed to be compatible with the Nikon. Yeah, the strobe power can be adjusted manually, but doesn't that defeat the purpose of having TTL?

I thought the whole purpose of buying this sophisticated (and expensive) system was to be able to put the camera on auto/TTL, pull the trigger and - BAM! - properly exposed photo. No more fiddling with manual shutter speeds and manual f-stops and manual flash power settings.

Now I am finding with my Nikon that, like my cheap camera, I have to manually adjust everything to get a correctly-exposed photo.

I set the minimum shutter speed for flash sync to 1/60, and set the maximum flash sync to 1/250, but that doesn't seem to have any effect.

I have tried a variety of subjects and apertures and lighting, and a variety of programs, but the shutter speed is fixed at 1/60 with the flash enabled. Even if I point the camera at a bright subject and set the aperture to f4 (aperture priority) and the ISO to 400, the shutter speed remains fixed at 1/60. The camera should pick a higher shutter speed based on the aperture, but it doesn't. It stays fixed at 1/60 no matter what I do.

 

[Doc Harry]

Okay, never mind. I found a book about the D300s, I'll read that and see if if I have any questions remaining.

 

[HerraduraDivers]

Outch!
I think that the Inon TTL mode work only with optical cable and not with electrical cable.
If your housing allows the strobe to open, fire and it has a "strobe port", you may try to use it as optical triggered strobe.
You can adjust the strobe power in 12 steps with the most right dial.

Full TTL will only work only with a Nikon or other i-TTL strobe, ikelite housings have a built-in TTL convertre to use with their strobes, but it don't work always perfect.

Chris

 

[AussieByron]

The Ikelite TTL is almost perfect for macro work

Regards Mark

 

[HerraduraDivers]

The Inon D-2000 work also "almost" perfect....

Nauticam states:
Divers could choose to use lighting system with either 5 pin bulkhead or Nauticam high quality optical fibers. There are two types of connectors for Nauticam optical fibers to use with Inon S-TTL strobe and Sea&Sea DS-TTL strobes.

Nauticam have a 5-Pin bulkhead what theoretically can providing native i-ttl, but you will need a i-ttl strobe.
This means a housed Nikon, Sunpack, Sigma i-ttl enabled strobe.
It will not work because :
In the Inon Z220, the SP signal ( speedlight monitor) from the camera (activated when the shutter is half-pressed) is used to operate the focusing light. Note that the strobe must be in Nikon mode for this functionality, i.e., the magnet must be in the 'N' hole.

The Z240 uses the Nikonos protocol and is NOT able to use i-TTL WITHOUT a TTL converter.
This webiste explains the Nikon(os) protocol, why it won't work and provide scematics to buils a converter.
http://www.camerasunderwater.info/engineering/flash/nikttl.html

If you have the fiber optic port on your camera, just use optical connections and you will surprised how well they work.

Chris

 

[Cp111]

The strobes with FO connections are supposed to be compatible with the Nikon. Yeah, the strobe power can be adjusted manually, but doesn't that defeat the purpose of having TTL?

I thought the whole purpose of buying this sophisticated (and expensive) system was to be able to put the camera on auto/TTL, pull the trigger and - BAM! - properly exposed photo. No more fiddling with manual shutter speeds and manual f-stops and manual flash power settings.

Now I am finding with my Nikon that, like my cheap camera, I have to manually adjust everything to get a correctly-exposed photo.

I set the minimum shutter speed for flash sync to 1/60, and set the maximum flash sync to 1/250, but that doesn't seem to have any effect.

I have tried a variety of subjects and apertures and lighting, and a variety of programs, but the shutter speed is fixed at 1/60 with the flash enabled. Even if I point the camera at a bright subject and set the aperture to f4 (aperture priority) and the ISO to 400, the shutter speed remains fixed at 1/60. The camera should pick a higher shutter speed based on the aperture, but it doesn't. It stays fixed at 1/60 no matter what I do.

Hello Harry,

I've been able to shoot D300s in the mode you are describing. The strobes are just mimicking the main flash, so I don't think they are the issue. What is your custom setting e1 set to?

[edited]Also, just noticed that you are talking about macro.... the shutter speed isn't really going to make much difference in macro shooting with flash. Have you tried this (outside of the housing) with just the built in flash? Is this same overexposure happening if you do that?

Cheers,
Chris

 

[AussieByron]

Any reason to use ISO 320 or 400 with the shooting macro with the 60mm?

Regards Mark

 

[AussieByron]

Harry,

Just a suggestion. Try this:

Camera on ISO100
use between f22-f29
shutter 1/100th
strobes on your TTL setting and then try manual strobes full power. Strobe in really close and on a 45 degree angle to your camera.

Does it get you started and the desired shot your after?

Regards Mark