D300s flash question

[Tienuts]

I just bought a Nikon D300s, Nikon 60mm lens, Nauticam housing, and Inon Z240 strobes. And I am having some issues that I do not understand.

In the program/TTL mode with the strobes in Low TTL mode, all of my macro photos are constantly over-exposed by 1 or 2 stops. I would think that $1,500 Nikon would be able to expose photos correctly right out of the box. I am using ISO 320 and all of the exposure compensation functions are disabled. WTF?

Is there any way to use a faster shutter speed than 1/60 in the flash mode? Looks like I can set the shutter speed from 1/60 to 30 seconds. Isn't there any other way to shoot at a faster speed? Are all of my underwater shots flash photos going to be at 1/60?

I suppose that I could shoot in the manual mode, but in that case why did I pay all this money for automatic TTL capability? Don't get me wrong - I had been shooting exclusively in the manual mode with my old P&S camera for the past few years. I am just trying to figure out how to let this expensive camera do the work for me.

I think what everyone is missing here is the OP is using program mode to shoot in. Program mode is essentially the same as 'auto' mode, except auto mode controls the ISO as well. Program mode does not. You can't control shutter speed or aperture when in program mode.

To the op - there is no such thing as an automatic mode to make outstanding photos when dealing with underwater. Any experienced u/w shooter will tell you that automatic shooting modes and ttl strobe control are like training wheels on a bike. The more experienced you become, the less you rely on these, and your ultimate goal should be to shoot completely manual exposures, and manual strobes. Its not as hard as it sounds, and it's worth it.

The reason for this, and for your underwater woes, is that the cameras were all designed and programmed for topside shooting. There is not a camera made which does underwater exposure properly, because shooting underwater is so different than topside shooting. Even the camera's which feature the 'underwater modes,' don't do it well. U/W shooting can vary so greatly just due to the water quality, so a single type of underwater programming will never be as good as the human eye/brain when it comes to shooting underwater. The camera is, quite literally, out of it's element, and it doesn't know what makes a good underwater shot. Even the 'TTL' the Inon strobe is capable of doing, is based off values and meter readings the camera is doing.

Cameras generally get underwater, and try to overexpose the shot. What makes a good underwater shot is to underexpose it, and let your flash fill in the color of your foreground subject.

To the op - it's kind of unclear if you are using an electrical sync cord or optical cords. If you're using electrical, you cannot get ttl without using a ttl converter. If you are using optical, you can. Make sure your magnet switch is in the correct position on the Z-240. Having it in the wrong position can result in over or underexposed shots.

Secondly, abandon your program mode. You could try aperture priority, but you'll end up with the same issues. Just accept manual is the mode to shoot in, especially with macro. It's not hard to learn.

 

[Doc Harry]

Thanks, but that is NOT what I want to hear.

I am slowly coming to the conclusion that I will have to keep shooting in manual mode with my Nikon. My old Sea & Sea point-and-shoot was fairly useless in the automatic mode and I was forced to shoot manual 99% of the time. When I got into photography 40 years ago, we didn't have automatic modes (at least not in any camera that I could afford), it was all manual. Adjusting exposure with the S&S was a two-handed process that was impossible with dry gloves. Manual adjustments are a whole lot easier with my new Nauticam housing.

I was just about the throw the whole mess into a gar bag. But I guess I'll keep it and shoot in manual mode.

Thanks again!

I think what everyone is missing here is the OP is using program mode to shoot in. Program mode is essentially the same as 'auto' mode, except auto mode controls the ISO as well. Program mode does not. You can't control shutter speed or aperture when in program mode.

To the op - there is no such thing as an automatic mode to make outstanding photos when dealing with underwater. Any experienced u/w shooter will tell you that automatic shooting modes and ttl strobe control are like training wheels on a bike. The more experienced you become, the less you rely on these, and your ultimate goal should be to shoot completely manual exposures, and manual strobes. Its not as hard as it sounds, and it's worth it.

The reason for this, and for your underwater woes, is that the cameras were all designed and programmed for topside shooting. There is not a camera made which does underwater exposure properly, because shooting underwater is so different than topside shooting. Even the camera's which feature the 'underwater modes,' don't do it well. U/W shooting can vary so greatly just due to the water quality, so a single type of underwater programming will never be as good as the human eye/brain when it comes to shooting underwater. The camera is, quite literally, out of it's element, and it doesn't know what makes a good underwater shot. Even the 'TTL' the Inon strobe is capable of doing, is based off values and meter readings the camera is doing.

Cameras generally get underwater, and try to overexpose the shot. What makes a good underwater shot is to underexpose it, and let your flash fill in the color of your foreground subject.

To the op - it's kind of unclear if you are using an electrical sync cord or optical cords. If you're using electrical, you cannot get ttl without using a ttl converter. If you are using optical, you can. Make sure your magnet switch is in the correct position on the Z-240. Having it in the wrong position can result in over or underexposed shots.

Secondly, abandon your program mode. You could try aperture priority, but you'll end up with the same issues. Just accept manual is the mode to shoot in, especially with macro. It's not hard to learn.

 

[AussieByron]

Have you tried the following:

Manual mode
Strobes on full power and moved in close to the port
f22
1/160th
lowest iso (Lo1 or 200)

Does it get you somewhere on the ball park? Play with your f-stops to see what looks good for you?

You have the constant strobe power (full), constant iso. Just play with your shutter and aperture.......

Regards Mark