Cuda vs P1

[lostsheep]

I ended up getting a cuda 650 with a lithium battery. Thanks for the advice.

What did you do for the battery? Custom pack or was there an off the shelf solution?

I recently acquired a sierra and am exploring li ion options. I think it was cell power that makes replacements for the Sierra but I don’t see a US vendor and the price point hurts a bit.

 

[211ratsbud]

What did you do for the battery? Custom pack or was there an off the shelf solution?

I recently acquired a sierra and am exploring li ion options. I think it was cell power that makes replacements for the Sierra but I don’t see a US vendor and the price point hurts a bit.

I purchased an 1000 or was it 1050wh battery from Jona along with the Smart-DPV Controller. I was around 1700 for both pieces. I could have gotten a black tip but I heard about recent problems with their functionality so the Sierra with 36v lion battery and Smart-DPV seemed logical.

Reach out to Jona. When it gets here I will do a little recap thread..

 

[rjack321]

What did you do for the battery? Custom pack or was there an off the shelf solution?

I recently acquired a sierra and am exploring li ion options. I think it was cell power that makes replacements for the Sierra but I don’t see a US vendor and the price point hurts a bit.

You can make your own li-ion battery for a Sierra. Expect to pay about about $450 in cells, BMS, and charger all in. Another $100 for a andurio spot welder.

Its hard to fit more than about 21-23ah into the existing case. If you are willing to craft a new case or pack very efficiently you can cram in more cells. Mine is a 7s7p but the BMS is a bit large and I could have fit more if I was willing to be more creative with the packing.

The Sierra won't magically keep up with the modern motors but the Sierra is still fine for what it is. The prop blades and the yoke pins will always be the weakest point(s).

 

[lostsheep]

I purchased an 1000 or was it 1050wh battery from Jona along with the Smart-DPV Controller. I was around 1700 for both pieces. I could have gotten a black tip but I heard about recent problems with their functionality so the Sierra with 36v lion battery and Smart-DPV seemed logical.

Reach out to Jona. When it gets here I will do a little recap thread..

When you say smart controller, are you talking about the programmable electronics from divextras? If so I assume that is just so you can control the cutoff voltage for the higher 36V battery?

You can make your own li-ion battery for a Sierra. Expect to pay about about $450 in cells, BMS, and charger all in. Another $100 for a andurio spot welder.

Its hard to fit more than about 21-23ah into the existing case. If you are willing to craft a new case or pack very efficiently you can cram in more cells. Mine is a 7s7p but the BMS is a bit large and I could have fit more if I was willing to be more creative with the packing.

The Sierra won't magically keep up with the modern motors but the Sierra is still fine for what it is. The prop blades and the yoke pins will always be the weakest point(s).

I have to laugh at myself for saying this but I'm not too sure I want to try and make my own battery. I am a self employed machinist and make stuff for myself everyday but I am not very good when it comes to circuits. That being said, I'd be very interested to see the BOM for what you built.

Since P1 is in the title of this thread and everyone likes pictures, here's the beginnings of revA for a replacement housing for my Piranha. Cap will be welded on and the tube will be cut down after I actually get the battery in my hands (it's 36" long in this pic.) For this one I deliberately copied the piranha geometry so it would look stock to the untrained eye...I love sleepers.

Pay no attention to the rough surfacing, it's on the inside anyways and I was using large steps with the tools that were already loaded,

 

[211ratsbud]

@lostsheep no, I purchased the following controller

Smart-dpv

 

[FIGJAM007]

What did you do for the battery? Custom pack or was there an off the shelf solution?

I recently acquired a sierra and am exploring li ion options. I think it was cell power that makes replacements for the Sierra but I don’t see a US vendor and the price point hurts a bit.

it was a custom battery, huge thing still trying to work out the details with that but is 63 amp hour apparently.

Very nice on making the replacement tube, looks really good. I’m looking at glass beeding my cuda body/tail, getting the sealing lip tidied up (will help maintain clearance with hard growth) and type 3 hard anodising the whole thing. Only thing I’m unsure about is what oversise tap to use on the threads before anodising. Will you be anodising the new body?

 

[lostsheep]

Very nice on making the replacement tube, looks really good. I’m looking at glass beeding my cuda body/tail, getting the sealing lip tidied up (will help maintain clearance with hard growth) and type 3 hard anodising the whole thing. Only thing I’m unsure about is what oversise tap to use on the threads before anodising. Will you be anodising the new body?

We’d love to see pictures of whatever you come up with.

I will be anodizing the tube but not sure if I’ll spring for type 3 on RevA. If there’s one thing I know it’s that there’s always a revB lol. Also, hard ano would likely cost me more than I spent on the aluminum.

As for the oversize tap, if you’re going to hard ano , I’d run the +.1mm.

 

[maxtrax]

We’d love to see pictures of whatever you come up with.

I will be anodizing the tube but not sure if I’ll spring for type 3 on RevA. If there’s one thing I know it’s that there’s always a revB lol. Also, hard ano would likely cost me more than I spent on the aluminum.

Although Type III is potentially more abrasion/ding resistant, Type II is actually generally more corrosion resistant. Would recommend sticking with Type II for scooter application.

 

[lostsheep]

Although Type III is potentially more abrasion/ding resistant, Type II is actually generally more corrosion resistant. Would recommend sticking with Type II for scooter application.

I was under the impression that the only difference between type 2 and 3 is the thickness of the anodic layer? The chemical process is the same and as such I would think that a thicker layer would be more chemically resistant to corrosion.

Type 2 Anodize vs Type 3 Anodize

 

[maxtrax]

That is only part of the difference. Type II must be sealed (contributing to corrosion resistance) whereas Type III is typically not. You can seal Type III to contribute to corrosion resistance at the sacrifice of lower abrasion resistance (the whole point of Type III). Even with full duplex sealed Type III, in practical application we've still found the best saltwater corrosion resistance with Type II Class 2 dyed ano, particularly with regard to galvanic corrosion around stainless fasteners.