Convince me to get steel tanks

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Well my buddy just broke up with his girl (got the dear john letter) so he has much more money in reserve now. I got one at the beginning of the deployment so I've had that extra money for quite a while, leading to my complete dive kit minus tanks. Wow is it nice being single again. What is with women these days though? It's only a year. I think I convinced him to get HP100s though. :) Now I need to get him Nitrox certified.

Well I've been convinced to get steel obviously. Now I'm in a 100/119 dilemma with the Worthingtons :( I think I'll eventually order them off Leisure Pro since the deal is far more appealing with free shipping and no sales tax.

100 - $355 shipped
119 - $390 shipped

scubatankcharacteristic.jpg

I vote for the bigger 119 tank. The Bigger LP tanks are also a good option.
 
As if the decisions weren't hard enough, now I'm looking at LPs. I already dive with 10 lbs and the LP121 is 11.1lbs full, then again the LP108 is 10.7 so I'll still be a little overweighted. A 3mm wetsuit will be added though so it could compensate.
 
As if the decisions weren't hard enough, now I'm looking at LPs. I already dive with 10 lbs and the LP121 is 11.1lbs full, then again the LP108 is 10.7 so I'll still be a little overweighted. A 3mm wetsuit will be added though so it could compensate.

Your best bet would be to rent different tanks to see what ones work best for you.
 
How much shorter of a life span am I looking at filling LP tanks to ~3000psi?

How much wear on regulators using HP tanks? I have an Atomic B2 DIN.

How much capacity am I looking at overfilling a LP95? Seems to have about the same dimensions/weight/buoyancy characteristics as an HP100 for about $35 less.

How about the LP108? If I go the LP route, might substitute that for the HP119. I like how the LP95 is 2.8 inches shorter than the LP108 though...

This is what Fill Express has to say about the Worthington LP tanks...

Many experienced divers have preferred low-pressure cylinders because they are easier on regulators, have no short-fill concerns, and are more suitable for partial-pressure blending. More recently, the low-pressure 3AA cylinders (2640 psi, i.e., 2400 with a +) are being replaced by the new DOT exemption cylinders (3442 psi, no plus needed). That's because you can use the high-pressure 3442 psi cylinders as low-pressure 2650 psi cylinders if you prefer, simply by under filling. The 3442 psi DOT Exemption cylinders have the same length, diameter, and capacity at lower 2640 psi pressure as the 3AA cylinders. Even better, the empty weight of the new cylinder design has been reduced slightly, yet the buoyancy remains slightly negative when empty.
 
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Your best bet would be to rent different tanks to see what ones work best for you.

The problem with that is I'm only home for a short period of time. I'd prefer to order them online because it is significcantly cheaper than the LDS plus tax. By the time I tried them and found out what I wanted, I wouldn't have time to order what I wanted before heading back. We'll see.
 
1> Buy something
2> Dive them
3> Don't like them? They will have a high resale value, sell them and go back to step 1
4> Otherwise, keep them

In the bigger scheme of things, having a couple of tanks like the HP 100s will be most useful. If nothing else, loan them to your buddy when you buy the LP <whatevers>. Without the high upkeep of a girlfriend, you will be able to buy all the tanks you could possibly want.

I would pass on overfills. It is a truly bad idea.

Richard
 
One other thing: the buoyancy of a tank is interesting when you consider weighting and BCs. But the mass of the tank (essentially its weight) is the part you have to accelerate with your fins. Deceleration is probably related to drag more than fin activity.

Think of it like having a neutrally buoyant submarine strapped to your back. Sure, it will carry a lot of air but how hard do you have to fin to get it moving? If you did get it to move, how do you get it to stop?

The same kind of thing happens when you roll on your side. The tank wants to roll you face up.

It's worth considering weight when you evaluate all the other factors.

Richard
 
Im lookin for steal 120's to set up doubles and someone told me to run lp 94's with a burst disc
 
1> Buy something
2> Dive them
3> Don't like them? They will have a high resale value, sell them and go back to step 1
4> Otherwise, keep them

In the bigger scheme of things, having a couple of tanks like the HP 100s will be most useful. If nothing else, loan them to your buddy when you buy the LP <whatevers>. Without the high upkeep of a girlfriend, you will be able to buy all the tanks you could possibly want.

I would pass on overfills. It is a truly bad idea.

Richard

Yeah I think I might just grab a couple HP119s and if it doesn't work out I'll throw them on Craigslist.
 
One other thing: the buoyancy of a tank is interesting when you consider weighting and BCs. But the mass of the tank (essentially its weight) is the part you have to accelerate with your fins. Deceleration is probably related to drag more than fin activity.

Think of it like having a neutrally buoyant submarine strapped to your back. Sure, it will carry a lot of air but how hard do you have to fin to get it moving? If you did get it to move, how do you get it to stop?

The same kind of thing happens when you roll on your side. The tank wants to roll you face up.

It's worth considering weight when you evaluate all the other factors.

Richard

Are you talking about dead weight? There is only .9lbs negative buoyancy difference at the beginning of the dive between the HP100 and 119. 10 and 10.9, 33 and 42, rsepectively. I understand the concept you're getting at but I don't see that being much of a problem with these tanks. Maybe I am missing something.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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