Converting HOG Regulator From Din to Yoke

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Yes, you need to remove everything in the schematic.
The yoke nut takes the place of 6.
 
Yes, you need to remove everything in the schematic.
The yoke nut takes the place of 6.

I got it. I was taking the term yoke nut literally. There is a actually a lot more to it than that. Not something I am going to pick up at the local hardware store :depressed:

I just took a look at a schematic of the Apex T50 to get a better understanding of what I will need to get my hands on. They have a nice schematic that shows both the DIN parts and yoke parts side-by-side. Kind of makes me wonder if the specs for that part of the D1 reg is the same for the Apex???
 
The Hog D1 1st stage is a DST/UST copy (depending on if it has the cold water kit).
The 2nd stage is an ATX50 copy.
 
seems a shame to pay to downgrade the reg.

why not look for a second hand 1st stage with a yoke.
 
.....it'd also be a shame to have it sitting in a box because there weren't any DIN tanks to use it on.
 
Are the converters not practical to use on a daily basis? I ask bc I'm interested in HOG but don't want din.
 
It depends on the user. If you don't want DIN you do have another option. Use HOG seconds on Epic firsts. There are still some Epic first stages available separately. Or at least there were a week or so ago. I would have to call and confirm. Performance is just as good. I use the adapter with the D-1 for all my single tank diving and personally have never had any issue with it hitting the back of my head. Still I prefer DIN and all my tanks are. In a purely practical sense the only downside for me would be forgetting the adapter as it is something you really shouldn't leave on the reg all the time.

But without the D-1 you lose the benefit of the turret which is really nice for routing if you dive a single with a long hose set up. Conventional hoses - not an issue and you can even put the Edgeflex braided hoses on. Adds a little to the cost doing it cafeteria style like this but you do get what you need.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
There is a actually a lot more to it than that. Not something I am going to pick up at the local hardware store :depressed:


You need an allen wrench to unscrew the DIN fitting and a large Cressent wrench to tighten the yoke fitting after screwing it in with your fingers. (after making sure the first stage side o-ring is in place) It takes less than a minute. It takes way longer to dig out an old yoke fitting that you had hoped never to see again
 
seems a shame to pay to downgrade the reg.

why not look for a second hand 1st stage with a yoke.

This is actually what I am transitioning away from. Lots of reasons but the big one for me is that I want to maintain all of my own gear and I don't dive enough when on vacation to warrant the cost of buying 4 additional sets of regs to dedicate to this purpose. I already have 2 sets for doubles and 4 sets for singles (wife and kids dive as well).

---------- Post Merged at 10:49 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 10:40 AM ----------

Are the converters not practical to use on a daily basis? I ask bc I'm interested in HOG but don't want din.

They work fine in most cases for most people. I have used them on probably 50-75 dives with only one serious problem. I had an oring extrude between the adapter and the reg because the DM who was messing with my gear cranked down on it without paying attention. The oring popped when I was down about 75 feet or so.

The things that are minor irritants for me are when I smack the back of my head on the reg because the adapter pushes it further out from the tank, the additional weight of the adapter means I have to adjust other things on my gear to maintain my trim, and I have to remove and reinstall the adapter after every day of diving otherwise they start to fuse together (I am guessing they are dissimilar metals).

---------- Post Merged at 10:54 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 10:40 AM ----------

You need an allen wrench to unscrew the DIN fitting and a large Cressent wrench to tighten the yoke fitting after screwing it in with your fingers. (after making sure the first stage side o-ring is in place) It takes less than a minute. It takes way longer to dig out an old yoke fitting that you had hoped never to see again

I had meant that there was a lot more to the yoke nut than one traditionally thinks of as a nut. My wife's old yoke regulator actually has a nut that holds the yoke to a post on the regulator. That is why I was having a hard time understanding what fishpie was saying. He was talking about what I would consider an assembly and I was talking about a simple little nut.
 
I had meant that there was a lot more to the yoke nut than one traditionally thinks of as a nut. My wife's old yoke regulator actually has a nut that holds the yoke to a post on the regulator. That is why I was having a hard time understanding what fishpie was saying. He was talking about what I would consider an assembly and I was talking about a simple little nut.


OK.............It's a modular assembly that functions as a simple little nut with an o-ring. There is a nut on the yoke assembly which turns independently of the yoke itself. Actually now that I look at it apart, it functions as bolt masquerading as as a nut. Egads, I am wrong.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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