Coltri mch6 air leaking back through the air intake

[lukejjon]

Thank you for all of the replies. Just in case gasoline does leave some residue , what are you thoughts on flushing with isopropyl alcohol, then blowing out with air?

 

[Agro]

I guess you can use C3H8O. I don't see any compressor parts which might get dammaged but I am not the expert.

 

[Alex Ouroboros]

On the subject of humidity in the compressor and reason for springs rotting etc,
I was told by the uk distributors engineer that before and after use (when cooled slightly) the compressor should be run for a few minutes to stop any accumulation of condensation with the taps open a no cylinder attached, after I had a bout of Coltri issue, and subsequently solved it (there is a write up on SB) it’s never put a foot wrong, but it is only used for myself and wife’s cylinders.

 

[Agro]

On the subject of humidity in the compressor and reason for springs rotting etc,
I was told by the uk distributors engineer that before and after use (when cooled slightly) the compressor should be run for a few minutes to stop any accumulation of condensation with the taps open a no cylinder attached, after I had a bout of Coltri issue, and subsequently solved it (there is a write up on SB) it’s never put a foot wrong, but it is only used for myself and wife’s cylinders.

Let's get to the point: Colri MCH6 (today they are rebranded because of its poor reputation) are very poor quality. I do not know any other compressor which has the problems as described.

Sell your Coltri and buy a reasonable compressor - any brand but Colri. Unless it's a larger Coltri such as MCH15

 

[Wibble]

@Agro - What cheapo starter compressor for lightweight use would you recommend?

(Appreciate that the word "cheap" is very rarely used in Switzerland )

 

[Wallowa]

On the subject of humidity in the compressor and reason for springs rotting etc,
I was told by the uk distributors engineer that before and after use (when cooled slightly) the compressor should be run for a few minutes to stop any accumulation of condensation with the taps open a no cylinder attached, after I had a bout of Coltri issue, and subsequently solved it (there is a write up on SB) it’s never put a foot wrong, but it is only used for myself and wife’s cylinders.

Same here....was advised by Nuvair to run a couple of minutes after filling with drains open and not pressurized [no load] to cool down the cylinders and this does purge any moisture....still do not understand where the moisture is coming from, must be ambient humidity is high...

Agro...not certain why you are so vitriolic against the MCH-6....mine and many others are running just fine for the use intended...you and Lord HaHa seem to really have it in for Coltri..."very poor quality" and "poor reputation"? By what metric? That is why so many are in use I guess we appreciate poor quality.... Anyway, to each their own.

 

[Agro]

There are so many MCH6 in use because they are cheap.

I had 2 Coltri MCH6, I treated them very well, after 50 hours they were gone: 300 bar tube broken, cylinder 4 heavily leaking, crankshaft dammaged.

I friend had 2 MCH6 as well, same problems, after 40-60 hours they were rubbish.

Better small compressors are:
- Bauer Junior
- Bauer PE 100
- L+W100

A much better small compressor is:
- Bauer Oceanus

I don't know IDE compressors.

 

[happy-diver]

I know that means something....but what?

We can only hope that before commencing welding the farmer uses non flammable petrol

 

[happy-diver]

Just in case gasoline does leave some residue

Mate go conduct some petrol experiments before speaking of something you know nothing about

what are you thoughts on flushing with isopropyl alcohol, then blowing out with air?

Dude!

The all the crevices of the sump is where the worn particles go to gather and rest and harden and stay
and some of the particles bored with where they've been may be swept out when you change your oil

Thing is if you have built up particles and other stubborn crud in the crevices that is where they should
stay until you clean it out properly before you spread all the crap through your compressor blowing air

Crud and stuff and pieces and particles in sump

More crud and stuff and pieces and other pieces and more particles in sump

Only some of the very important pieces above the crud in the sump

To avoid splashing petrol dislodging your crud and blowing it through your important pieces is good

 

[happy-diver]

Here again are only some of the very important pieces that live above the sump

Here is the same sump without crud and stuff and pieces and particles in the sump
to be petrol blown through some of the important pieces that live above the sump

Never ever listen to people, that want you to splash petrol and blow crud through your important pieces


Has anyone managed to count all the dozens and dozens of needles in the bearings in those conrods yet