Checking seal on computer with pump sprayer.

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boat sju

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Anyone every put a computer in a pump sprayer and pressurize it to check the battery compartment seal? I believe they pressurize to 40 psi which would be about 90 ft.

Any other creative ideas?

boat
 
Wot a good idea !! Why the hell did I not think of that :/ K
 
I got all excited to try it and realized my computer is a hair too big to fit in the clean sprayer I've got. If you do try it don't put too much water in the sprayer or it will pressurize/depressurize too quickly.
 
boat sju,

Yes putting a DC in a pump sprayer with water and pressurizing it will be equivalent to taking your computer to a 90 feet dive (to continue with your example of 40 psi max pressure). However, your procedure would be only safe for dive computers with a battery compartment separate from the electronics (Sunnto Zoop, for example). Trying your procedure with any DC in which the battery is in the same enclosure as the electronics (Oceanic OC1, OCi, Suunto's D4, D6, D9, etc) risks flooding the computer electronics and ruining computer for good in the case is not 100% waterproof.
 
The other problem I see is you have to open it up again to check it.

Then you put it back together again but the o-ring doesn't seal right this time.

Its a never ending circle.
 
Doctor,

How do they pressure test them at your LDS then?

oops. Just looked closer at your avatar. But I guess I don't understand. How do you protect the DC in a pressure vessel?
 
boat sju,

You are right, my avatar is a picture of one of our Bergeon dive computer pressure testers. These pressure testers were developed by the Swiss watch industry to test the high-end dive watches (Rolex, Omega, etc) without flooding a $ 10,000 watch due to a defective rear case gasket, a leaky crown or a cracked glass. First, the transparent lucite vessel is filled halfway with water. During Phase 1 of the test, your dive watch (or computer) is hanging in the air (upper half of the vase) while the vessel is pressurized to the desired equivalent depth. In case the watch or computer is not 100% watertight, air at the testing pressure will get into the specimen but not affecting at all the integrity of the parts or the electronics inside. During Phase 2 of the test, the sliding rod where the watch or computer is attached is pushed down to submerge the specimen in water (which is at the same pressure as the air inside it, thus preventing water to get into the unit). During Phase 3 you slowly open the purge valve to depressurize the vessel. Under the hypothesis that the unit is not 100% watertight, you will see air bubbles coming out of the watch or computer. Noticing where the bubbles come from you will learn where the leakage is. You then remove the watch from the pressure tester and correct the leakage. If, on the other hand, the watch or computer was watertight to the test depth, no air would get inside it during Phase 1 and there will be no bubbles coming out during Phase 3. At our shop, we pressure test to 160 feet (50 meters) every computer or dive watch we service. And we have serviced a few thousands of dive computers and dive watches throughout the years without ever flooding a single one.
 
Divewatchdoctor,

Thanks for the explanation. Very cool. I was just trying to figure how to test the seal on my user changeable battery compartment before I head out on a trip. I don't have easy access to a pool anymore. I used to just hop in the deep end with it. I'm pretty good at the feel of it sealing now - I had it fail once early on though. I got out of the pool and I could see water inside and the battery leaked immediately.

boat
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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