Closeup lenses are basically reading glasses for cameras. The higher the diopter number (+10 vs +5 for instance), the closer you can physically get to your subject and stacking close-up lenses will increase the strength or diopter correction. In most situations, getting closer is done to make the subject bigger in the frame but people can confuse "getting closer" with the end game. They then may look at the focusing distance specs and perhaps conclude the wrong thing.
You typically get physically closer at the short end of the zoom range (ie--the wideangle end of the lens) on most cameras. However, the size of the object appearing in the frame may not be as big as say being farther away but with the lens set towards the telephoto end. It's a bit deceptive to only look at the actual distance to the subject because focal length also affects image size. What would be nice is if we were told reproduction ratios when specs are given. That would tell you how big the object is in the frame compared to life-size. (ie--1:4 repro ratio would be 1/4th lifesize on the frame) That's what I would want to know anyway, how big is that tiny blennie going to be in my shot, not how close I have to stick my lens to the poor thing!
Assuming you can get an adapter to hold your Dyron lenses close to the housing port you should have no problems using them and seeing results similar to your G-11. When you have those lenses on, the macro setting is not used on the camera, since the diopter lenses control how close you get. Seeing what Canon's minimum focusing distance specs are only matters when using the camera w/out any attachment lenses.
As to whether the shots will be "as good", I would say no--they should be better w/ that big honking sensor Canon is wedging in the G-1X! That is a variable too though, the sensor size. Since I haven't seen user reports yet I guess there could be some concern for corner sharpness or vignetting when using add-on lenses not designed for the bigger sensor size. Seems like it shouldn't be an issue but it would be good to know by seeing actual results. Thing is, even if there were vignetting it would be at the WA end of the lens. Bumping the focal length up a bit should avoid corner problems, that's what I do now w/ my SubSee diopters on my G-11. No biggy, most times I prefer to be a bit further back and use longer focal lengths when doing macro work.
Hmmm, I'd be happy to run test shots if someone wants to send me the camera!
// ww