Canister Light: beam angle 6° vs 16°

[DevonDiver]

I'd still be focusing on canister purely because of the burn time as i envisage doing deco dives in the near future (won't be extremely long ones in the beginning, but intend on furthering my tech training).

Hand held LED primaries are definitely the future.

I wouldn't suggest making a CURRENT investment based on assumed FUTURE needs, when technology is changing at a rapid pace.

Not sure what dive times and water conditions you're predicting when you further your tech training. However, improved battery tech is likely to outpace the speed at which you extend runtimes, assuming you progress your diving responsibly and patiently.

In the meantime, the charge capacity in your cannister's rechargeable battery is inevitably degrading....

Also, consider When you'd need the light activated. Even if you want to be "very DIR" and use one for communication in clear open-water conditions.... it's usually only dark/dim at depth.

Do you really need a torch when conducting shallow team deco (a large proportion of your runtime)?

I dont know about others, but I'd switch my primary torch off once I'm in mid-shallow stop range. Even if the water remained dim... we're just hanging there as a team face-to-face and in constant eyeball contact.

I've got a little handheld primary that I use regularly. It's got a punchy beam and burn time is ~50 min on full. On ascent I drop power to 30%, where it will last many hours.

It uses rechargeable batteries via micro USB. You can also replace the battery, if you wanted. During surface intervals I can recharge it. My regular boat has sockets. If the boat doesn't have sockets, I use a regular phone power-bank.

It cost $50

Honestly, I think most tech divers nowadays who buy cannister lights is just for the image-factor, or because they read some tech article or other, written over a decade ago.

 

[admikar]

a variable beam light 6-25 degrees.

Which light is that?

 

[buddhasummer]

MB-Sub VB50. They are no longer trading, which likely means if I have a problem I could be in trouble. Having said that it's about 5 years old and so far so good. It is very well made but electronics all fail eventually.

 

[eelnoraa]

For canister light, definitely 6 degree. 16 degree is very wide. I can see in cave (dark), clear water, it will be useful, but in open water with moderate ambient light, 16 degree beam won't get anyone's attention.

I am with Stuartv about DiveRite LX20. I don't see why would anyone spend $700 on this. But I have to give pops to DiveRite not inflating LED light output. The true is XML-L2 U2 LED just can't pump out 1000lumen in practical use. This LED can produce maximum of 1000 lumen under ideal condition. It is like say a car has max speed of 150MPH, but you can never get there safely due to other infrastrcutre limitation (road condition in this case). In the case of a flash light, it is the driver efficient, battery supply and runtime constrain.

I personally prefer canister light over handheld as primary in general. I like to be able to take off the light head quickly and the ability to let it go without losing the light. When I am on vacation with a handheld, I kind of miss the cord. But I do agree that for recreational dive, the cord is going away as light technology improve

 

[DevonDiver]

I personally prefer canister light over handheld as primary in general. I like to be able to take off the light head quickly and the ability to let it go without losing the light. When I am on vacation with a handheld, I kind of miss the cord.

I'll tie some cord on a handheld primary for ya.... save you $0,000's. LMAO

 

[Centrals]

I don't really care if it is canister or handheld as long as it suits my requirement andIi do prefer narrow and sharp beam.

 

[tbone1004]

I'll tie some cord on a handheld primary for ya.... save you $0,000's. LMAO

for the diving you do, I'd agree. Unfortunately for the long cave dives, there is still really no way to get rid of them. The lights with a sufficient burn time are just so damned big and heavy that it's insane. For wreck diving I see 0 reason to take a canister, but for the long cave dives, the technology just isn't there yet...

 

[DevonDiver]

for the diving you do, I'd agree. Unfortunately for the long cave dives, there is still really no way to get rid of them. The lights with a sufficient burn time are just so damned big and heavy that it's insane. For wreck diving I see 0 reason to take a canister, but for the long cave dives, the technology just isn't there yet...

I agree with respect to expedition grade cave exploration. I also agree where a canister might also power heating systems etc.

But that's a tiny minority of technical divers. Only a tiny minority needs opt for canister lights nowadays.

I also don't agree with using (more complex) equipment merely to fulfill a protocol. Technology advances, new protocols should be written to encompass that change.

 

[OMANDIVER]

I agree with respect to expedition grade cave exploration. I also agree where a canister might also power heating systems etc.

But that's a tiny minority of technical divers. Only a tiny minority needs opt for canister lights nowadays.

I also don't agree with using (more complex) equipment merely to fulfill a protocol. Technology advances, new protocols should be written to encompass that change.

Agreed. That's why I like Tillytec. You can swap out the light emitters and batteries as and when the technology changes at minimal cost. I use two for cave diving. Made in Germany, good quality and inexpensive.

 

[Derelict]

Honestly, I think most tech divers nowadays who buy cannister lights is just for the image-factor, or because they read some tech article or other, written over a decade ago.

Unfortunately in order to do cavern and cave courses we are required to have a canister light. It's ****. I'll probably just hire or borrow one if I ever go that route.

Personally, I use a Sola Tec 600 atm. It's supposed to be 8 degree beam but I'd say it's closer to 12 degrees. But it's a fantastic torch. Great quality so you actually get the full output. At night and in wrecks it's more than sufficient, and with 3 hours burn time on max, that's plenty. Can drop to medium to add an hour to the burn time. The only issue I've had with it is when I've had to do valve drills on a course. It's tricky to take it off quickly.