I’m wondering which canister can be use for heating gear if I need it later, and primary light? Also which canister do you recommend that is bright? I don’t want to have to buy twice… also if possible something under $1700…. Hope it’s reasonable. Are the diverite good?
Canister advice
- Thread starter johnydive
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Post to help you understand heat:
scubaboard.com
I am of the opinion that combined heat + light into a single canister is a relatively poor idea and much prefer separate canisters. In terms of light, UWLD40>Focus2>LM32VF>Dive Rite EX35. If you do decide to combine the heat + light, the UWLD platform allows for this easily. The Light Monkey, on the other hand, does not, nor does the Focus2 or EX35. What are your target dives? Durations and temperatures? $1700 US or CAD?
If you're wanting to include heat, I'd suggest a bare minimum of 20Ah. The PDF in the above post will help you with the math.
Bottoms of feet cold (drysuit, 39F / 3.9C water)
I'm trying to dial in my exposure protection for winter Lake Tahoe diving. It gets down to (and is currently) 39F, pretty much from the surface on down. I've taken a number of steps to boost my thermal protection and have successfully done 90 minute dives at this temp without getting too chilly...
I am of the opinion that combined heat + light into a single canister is a relatively poor idea and much prefer separate canisters. In terms of light, UWLD40>Focus2>LM32VF>Dive Rite EX35. If you do decide to combine the heat + light, the UWLD platform allows for this easily. The Light Monkey, on the other hand, does not, nor does the Focus2 or EX35. What are your target dives? Durations and temperatures? $1700 US or CAD?
If you're wanting to include heat, I'd suggest a bare minimum of 20Ah. The PDF in the above post will help you with the math.
I’m diving in Canada year around. From 32F to 73 and in the tropics. I’m doing wreck dives and for now nothing longer than 2hPost to help you understand heat:
Bottoms of feet cold (drysuit, 39F / 3.9C water)
I'm trying to dial in my exposure protection for winter Lake Tahoe diving. It gets down to (and is currently) 39F, pretty much from the surface on down. I've taken a number of steps to boost my thermal protection and have successfully done 90 minute dives at this temp without getting too chilly...
I am of the opinion that combined heat + light into a single canister is a relatively poor idea and much prefer separate canisters. In terms of light, UWLD40>Focus2>LM32VF>Dive Rite EX35. If you do decide to combine the heat + light, the UWLD platform allows for this easily. The Light Monkey, on the other hand, does not, nor does the Focus2 or EX35. What are your target dives? Durations and temperatures? $1700 US or CAD?
If you're wanting to include heat, I'd suggest a bare minimum of 20Ah. The PDF in the above post will help you with the math.
The pdf will help you, but the summary is also in the post.
TL;DR 20Ah or larger independent canister, Light Monkey shirt or similar vest (a la Lola) and a separate canister light of appropriate config and burn time. The Santi full suits are far overpriced by the time you pay duties and the import premium.
Mostly wreck I don’t have cave training for now.
Duped thread with: Canister advice
Answer is same, UWLD LD40 > Focus 2 > LM32VF = LM 20 > Dive Rite EX35 >>>>>>> OrcaTorch though no personal extensive experience with Seaya or Ammonite
Regarding the duped thread, johnydive's two canister light threads have been merged
Answer is same, UWLD LD40 > Focus 2 > LM32VF = LM 20 > Dive Rite EX35 >>>>>>> OrcaTorch though no personal extensive experience with Seaya or Ammonite
A ScubaBoard Staff Message...
One thing that is sometimes overlooked with lights is what are your buddies using? We use lights for signaling. If a team member has a light that is so bright that it drowns out another light, you lose the signaling aspect of it. I've been using Light Monkey lights and I have had good luck with them. I currently have an older 21W LED head and the 32W Variable Head. The 32W is very bright, and there is enough backscatter that I oftentimes turn it down to help minimize the high beams in the fog effect. I also really like the small size of the non 32W heads from LM.
For heat you will need atleast a 15 amp hour battery pack any less and you wont have the burn time you need for extended deco
You l can order a 15 amp hr can with a heater controler in the lid and a separate lid for running a light without the heater.
Most people up in the lakes run a can for heat and a handheld light as the bottom times do not require the long light burn time.
I ran 2 cans on my right hip for years and only recently switched to a 20 amp hr double output can.
I do like the double can .
You l can order a 15 amp hr can with a heater controler in the lid and a separate lid for running a light without the heater.
Most people up in the lakes run a can for heat and a handheld light as the bottom times do not require the long light burn time.
I ran 2 cans on my right hip for years and only recently switched to a 20 amp hr double output can.
I do like the double can .
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