Can this valve be saved?

[Zef]

Here are some pics of an old Scubapro H valve a dive friend gave me recently so that I can run 2 1st stages this winter.

The valve threading is M25x2.

It definitely needs to be serviced as it is old and has not been used in a long time.

I was able to remove the old manky plastic dip tube.

The bottom of the valve has some chips/pitting but the rest of it is in decent shape (I have pulled it apart to look and reassembled).

My primary question is can this valve be saved or based on the chips/pitting is it destined for the scrap heap?

My secondary questions, if the valve can be saved, is there a recommended service kit that anyone can help me obtain? Or I can measure the o-rings and buy replacements but need to know if the valve seats are standard or if they come in specific flavors of threading.

Thanks,

-Z

 

[The Chairman]

Meh. Is there a compelling reason to keep it? I would be using it to show what happens when water gets in the tank. How did the inside of the tank look?

 

[tbone1004]

I'm with @The Chairman on this one. If the bottom of the valve looks like that, I'd be really concerned about what the inside of the valve looks like....

 

[Sam Miller III]

Same opinion--
SDM

 

[michael-fisch]

Take it completely apart, sort out the handwheels (Knobs) and O-Rings, and toss everything in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. After ultrasonic cleaning, and rinsing in fresh water, blow everything dry. Now using a magnifier take a good long look at whats left. Probably you'll have to replace the nylon ended lower spindles, certainly have to replace all the O-Rings and the dip-tube, and it would be a good idea to replace the handwheels (Knobs) unless there is a metal plate inside them.
Total cost for 1 dip tube, 2 Lower Spindles, 1 Tank neck O-ring and the other 6 O-Rings + a tiny bit of whatever grease you like, should be less than $15 unless your dive shop is getting greedy, or you let them do the work.

Michael

 

[Zef]

Meh. Is there a compelling reason to keep it? I would be using it to show what happens when water gets in the tank. How did the inside of the tank look?

Did not see the inside of the tank. He pulled it from a bin in his garage.

The area inside between the main valve body and the 2nd port looked clean, but obviously that is only one part of the valve.

The only reason to keep and overhaul this would be to defray the cost of purchasing a new valve.

-Z

 

[The Chairman]

For most intents and purposes, three threads are all that's needed to achieve %95 strength, but these threads are not in proportion with the diameter, so I'm not sure that's true in this case.

So, you need an H-valve? Do you still have the drip tube? Is there pitting on the o-ring interface?

Yes, you would need to disassemble both valves and make sure that there is no internal pitting. Again, I would think you'll spend more time that the valve is actually worth. Cut corners elsewhere would be my suggestion.

 

[Compressor]

As above plus tanks needs to get hydroed to see if it can pass.

 

[rjack321]

I've never seen brass pitted on the inside of a tank like the base of those threads. I suspect this valve is dead.

 

[Jonny Wishbone]

Am I missing something or is there no burst disc on that valve? If not, probably not be able to get tank filled anyway. NM, I just saw you are in Belgium.