Trip Report Cabo Pulmo - (again & again & again...) or Growing Pains.

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kumimonster

Contributor
Messages
260
Reaction score
173
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
# of dives
500 - 999
I love Cabo Pulmo. I love staying there. I love the pace. I love being able to walk everywhere and how the idea of being stuck in traffic usually means a bunch of cows or goats crossing the road when you're heading to or from the airport to get there.
I am of the firm opinion that if you want to dive in Cabo Pulmo, you should stay in Cabo Pulmo. You should patronize the local restaurants and stay with the locals and use the local operators. If you want to dive Cabo San Lucas, then you should stay in that city and use the dive operators there. Each place offers their own advantages and staying in each location is a much better way of experiencing these places. (I do know operators that are based out of CSL that bring people to CP for day trips and they're great peoples, but I still would recommend skipping that idea).

So, let's call this one: Growing Pains.

Travel dates:
October 19-27

Dive Sites:
OCT 20 - Las Anclas, Casitas, Jacks (near los morros)
OCT 21 free diving bitches!! (I took a class! whoop!)
OCT 22 - La Esperanza, Jacks (not so good), Pibes Reef
OCT 23 - El Cien, El Pedregal N, El Islote,
OCT 24 - Los Morros, Pibes Reef, Chopitos, El Islote
OCT 25 - El Bajo, el Bledito, Jacks, El Cantil- Norte
OCT 26 - El Bajo, El Vencedor



A place will never been what it once was. There are even more operators and more trailers and more boats.
There are also more restaurants (OK one, but that counts!)
All of these are there to accommodate more tourists and divers. However the park itself and the land remains the same. The rules that have been set to protect the dive sites and the marine park remain in place however there have been some changes.
During the busier months, the more popular dive sites could only be visited by a certain number of dive boats/divers. (Sites: El Bajo, Los Morros, El Islote, En Cantil N and El Vencedor). The day these sites opened up could be any day of the week - for example, a Tuesday. If it was a busy Tues, Wed, Thurs, then by Friday, all the popular sites would be closed until Tuesday came around again. If the sites opened up on a Friday, then you know the weekend would wipe out all access to those sites very quickly!
Now the site openings are staggered. For this trip, El Vencedor opened up on Tuesday, the day before we flew out so my group was able to dive it (We had arrived on Tuesday the week before). Of course, our DM had to show up early for the queue at the marine park tower and wait while we put a little more hustle in our step to make sure we were ready as well.
The staggered system seems to work out much better - that way there's a chance for people to get to dive popular sites no matter when they come to town.

We visited different and new sites - new to me. Spots like Pibes Reef are shallower dives but full of life. I don't recall every going before.

Look: the trailers on the beach. Two years ago there weren't even half this amount!
(Not shown here, the other part of the beach with 3-4 boats for the CPBeach Resort).

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Something else that was different: The first couple of days we had to return to the beach in order to swap out tanks. And not just swap them out but return the empty tanks, wait for them to get filled, and then get them back into the boat.
If you've ever gone diving here, then you're probably used to what I'm used to. The boats are loaded up with 2 tanks per diver (for those doing 2 dives or more). You do the 2 dives and then return to the beach to offload passengers that are only doing the 2 dives and also swap out for new tanks.
This time we had to do this after the first dive and spend our SI at the beach waiting for full tanks to come back to us. Spending the hour in between dives at the beach wasn't bad, it was when the wait lasted more than an hour and then we'd have to head back out to the dive site. Again, not *THAT* terrible but if both dive sites are at the far end of the park and a minute away... well, you get the idea.
Our DM fixed this by going to another shop to personally pick up tanks for us so we'd have 2 in the boat for each diver. (This she did herself cuz she's awesome like that - Manu from Blue Passion Baja).

Nitty Gritty:
My computer tells me that the water temp was anywhere from 83-87F the entire week we were there. The air temperature was on the higher end of those figures.
It was WARM in and out of the water. I only started feeling a little chilly on the latter days during dive #4.
I wore 2mm shorts, hooded lavacore vest and sharkskins ss top for thermal protection. I need to get leggings. One day I got hit with a floating stinger that had me clutching my leg and feeling all sorts of things. I've been tagged before but this one was a doozie. Multiple hits front and back left me tingly for a while. And yes, everyone on the boat offered to pee on me but I politely declined :outtahere:The marks are still red and still on my leg. Also the back of the knee is a very sensitive spot, people!

Since the water was warmer, there were less bullsharks about at El Vencedor. Only saw about 4 there. However we did spot a nurse, and a couple of white tips at various other sites. Also another bull was spotted at El Islote and El Cien.
Lots of lobster about. Dolphins on the surface were cool. And the ever popular bait ball of jacks.
A whale shark was spotted in the northern part of the park but not by my group.
Ah, but we also were visited by a small humpback - can one call a humpback small? (Boat visit, not a while scuba diving sighting).

There's a new restaurant ! Tornados - lady-owned and part of the Castro family of businesses :) It's very tasty. Christopher makes a mean limonada! I think it became my second fave spot (La Palapa is still my #1). It's right next to Cabo Pulmo Watersports. If you've been to CP in the past, you might remember a little shop called Moonstone that used to be there. (I don't even recall going in). Also, Nomade has shifted to a cute trailer from the brick and mortar store near Pepe's. They have fun T-shirts and I wanted to buy a couple but they weren't open when I went back (they take CCs!). There's one that reads "Bad Road/Good People" and if you've been to CP, then you know! They're now right next to Tacos & Beers. Cabo Pulmo Gift shop also has new fun designs. I bought 6 shirts! haha!

The Bad:
Cabo Pulmo has always been a place where you could leave your doors unlocked. Well, you had to because there are no locks on the doors of any of the places I've stayed. There's no theft and if you forgot something at a dive shop, you'd pick it up the next day. Perhaps with the growth and the additional visitors, you'll have to be a more wary of those around you. After my last day 4-dive day, I put my primary mask, my light (with customized lanyard), my GoPro with housing and customized lanyard in a rinse tub. I no longer have these items (and also my compass). It's one thing to misplace or drop a single item but this whole lot of items? And even if I did drop an item, then anyone would simply return it to one shop and everyone would know to ask around. It's just very disappointing. If someone took it, it was most likely a day visitor. And hopefully they can make good use of my Halcyon mask, Big Blue light, and freaking GoPro. UGH. And my little wrapped boltsnaps.

Here are some photos. The best day of swimming with the baitball of jacks are still on my GoPro - even if I don't have it, it's still mine. And if you ever see these around, watch out cuz the people holding them are thieves.
Screenshot 2021-10-28 at 08-22-37 Kumi Monster on Instagram “It's been a while Charged up all ...png



photo of my computer screen from video still:
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_A220264.JPG _A260030G.jpg _A260146G.jpg _A260066G.jpg

_A240048G.jpg

_A260038G.jpg

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the whale from my vimeo page:


/end
 
Love that whale shot! Nice bull shark shot, too. Got a couple of questions:

I need to get leggings. One day I got hit with a floating stinger that had me clutching my leg and feeling all sorts of things. I've been tagged before but this one was a doozie.
For everyone: just how thick does exposure protection need to be to fend off jellyfish stings? A 3-mm ought to do it, but what about a thin rash guard protection, like the full lycra skin I sometimes wear?

People wear a variety of things. Any idea at just what point one is protected? I'm guessing panty hose wouldn't do much, a 3-mm wetsuit would, and so somewhere in between...
Also, Nomade has shifted to a cute trailer from the brick and mortar store near Pepe's. They have fun T-shirts and I wanted to buy a couple but they weren't open when I went back (they take CCs!).
Do many of the local businesses not take credit cards? Do tourists to Cabo Pulmo need to bring a wad of cash? Is a 'safe' ATM handy?
 
Love that whale shot! Nice bull shark shot, too. Got a couple of questions:


For everyone: just how thick does exposure protection need to be to fend off jellyfish stings? A 3-mm ought to do it, but what about a thin rash guard protection, like the full lycra skin I sometimes wear?

People wear a variety of things. Any idea at just what point one is protected? I'm guessing panty hose wouldn't do much, a 3-mm wetsuit would, and so somewhere in between...

Do many of the local businesses not take credit cards? Do tourists to Cabo Pulmo need to bring a wad of cash? Is a 'safe' ATM handy?
I know lots of women love those lycra rash guards and leggings that have come out now. Many are made with recycled material so that's cool. But I prefer something that's going to give me good thermal protection and if I'm diving warm, then I'd also like neutral items so I won't have to add weight.
-----------
Credit cards and Cabo Pulmo.
That would be a um.... not really. Yes. And, nope.

Cabo Pulmo Gift shop does. Nomade does. Both shops sell t-shirts and that kind of thing. There is about a 5% credit card fee.
A couple of the dive shops also take credit cards but you're talking about a big service fee. (I'm talking about 20% or more). Business at restaurants, dive shops, and everything else runs on cash. You can use pesos or even US dollars - but cash is easier for those that live and work there and everyone ends up saving by avoiding fees imposed by cc companies.

The nearest ATM is in the town to the north: La Ribera. Google Maps will tell you it takes 34 minutes. I'd like to see their google mapping car do the route in that time. It's about 20 miles and the last 6 is unpaved dirt with patches of tire-high pools of water - depending on the season - as well as boulders that just magically appear in the middle of the road. If you're traveling around hurricane season, then you're going to be driving through a river (floating more like it). If you want to rent, go 4WD. Ground clearance is good, something fast and close to the ground is not good.
Anyway, back to the ATM. The max you can take out of that ATM is going to be 300 $US. If you lived in CP, you'd end up having to go to San Jose del Cabo to do your banking or withdraw a usable sum of cash if you needed to run a business, etc. (say 2 hours' drive one way).
 
Thanks for all the practical added detail. Just the type I think people contemplating a stay there need to know.

Your profile says you're in the San Francisco Bay area; GoogleMaps thinks that's a 30 hour drive with tolls, 36 without. So even from California, sounds like a 'fly to' destination. I've wondered how many American dive tourists drove vs. flew.

I wonder how the overall trip price with airfare, accommodations, food and diving stacks up to popular Caribbean destinations like Cozumel, Roatan, Belize and Bonaire? I understand it's a very different diving environment, with Pacific Ocean fauna rather than Caribbean Sea life.
 
Thanks, those are some really gorgeous pictures. I have been looking at Cabo Pulmo once I'm at the point of going on vacations.
 
Thanks for all the practical added detail. Just the type I think people contemplating a stay there need to know.

Your profile says you're in the San Francisco Bay area; GoogleMaps thinks that's a 30 hour drive with tolls, 36 without. So even from California, sounds like a 'fly to' destination. I've wondered how many American dive tourists drove vs. flew.

I wonder how the overall trip price with airfare, accommodations, food and diving stacks up to popular Caribbean destinations like Cozumel, Roatan, Belize and Bonaire? I understand it's a very different diving environment, with Pacific Ocean fauna rather than Caribbean Sea life.
I fly!
I'm closest to San Jose airport (SJC) and I fly to San Jose airport (SJD) normally on Southwest Airlines (bags fly free). I can get a RT for 300-400 $US.
I don't rent a car, instead I take a shuttle that makes a stop at a grocery store for $200 US. This is split between the group. For me and the people I travel with, a car is not necessary. All we do is dive everyday. If people want to see some sights (hot springs, other towns, etc) then renting a car is an option.

For those that like to roadtrip baja, then driving is something people do. there are lots of little towns that are popular to see on both sides of Baja California. But if Cabo Pulmo is the destination (or Cabo San Lucas), then flying is a lot easier.

This week trip cost me:
under 400 for flights rt.
65 transfers (Roundtrip)
under 400 for lodging 8 nights.
1100 US$ (I get a discounted rate but I also tip high-ish).
I also spent a few hundred on a private freedive class.
Groceries and eating out for lunch/dinner happened.

Belize was the last Caribbean trip I made but while I did go diving, I can't recall prices. Also, I was not really on a budget style trip for that journey so can't really compare when it comes to basic dive traveling. (Stayed at the Gaia Riverlodge and then then sister resort Matachica).
Personally, I like the easy bounces to baja. I just love the village and people there. And oddly enough, I'm not that big on warm water diving though I do plan on hitting Tulum to get my TDI sidemount and cave started.
 
Thanks, those are some really gorgeous pictures. I have been looking at Cabo Pulmo once I'm at the point of going on vacations.
Don't go in August, September, October, or November. ;-)
If it's an option.
If not, then October and November have less hurricanes which are probably more detrimental to diving than crowds.
 
Your profile says you're in the San Francisco Bay area; GoogleMaps thinks that's a 30 hour drive with tolls, 36 without. So even from California, sounds like a 'fly to' destination. I've wondered how many American dive tourists drove vs. flew.
I have some friends who drove down and camped along the way, but I wouldn't do that in Baja California (as opposed to Baja California Sur). Too many murders. And that's the official rate, presumably the inter-cartel fighting does not often result in a police report.

kumi, I see that you had the same flashlight set I did! Mine was not bolt-snapped and ended up somewhere on North Monastery. I replaced it with a Dive Rite LX20 which is a lot harder to lose. Though presumably it's more of a theft target. I'm honestly surprised there is not more theft of dive gear. People are in the water for quite a while, no bystander is going to notice if you make off with a tank, or a set of flashlights. I've been lucky, so sorry you were not.
 
I have some friends who drove down and camped along the way, but I wouldn't do that in Baja California (as opposed to Baja California Sur). Too many murders. And that's the official rate, presumably the inter-cartel fighting does not often result in a police report.

kumi, I see that you had the same flashlight set I did! Mine was not bolt-snapped and ended up somewhere on North Monastery. I replaced it with a Dive Rite LX20 which is a lot harder to lose. Though presumably it's more of a theft target. I'm honestly surprised there is not more theft of dive gear. People are in the water for quite a while, no bystander is going to notice if you make off with a tank, or a set of flashlights. I've been lucky, so sorry you were not.

in Monterey, we leave our stuff out on our tables at Breakwater. Our tanks, our BCs, our weights, our cars and trucks our loaded with gear. Sure, we pack away most of it when we're in the water but otherwise, it's all sitting there left out while we chat with others or run to the bathroom.

In Cabo Pulmo, there are no locks on the doors of the places you stay. There are safes to lock away things but I've never thought to myself, "oh I better lock this up or someone will break in and steal my money." I just do because it's a good place to keep passports and cash.
When I walk down to the beach from the dive shop, I can wave to the other operators and local workers and some will wave back and say, "howdy, kumi!" (maybe not howdy, but hola or the like).
It's a giant friendly place with good people. That's why it sucks that someone would come in there and do a thing like that. It's really not something that happens there.

I have a couple of friends that have done the drive through Baja to the south. They had no issues luckily!

That flashlight set is great. Luckily it was the little one that got taken and not the one with the rechargeable battery. After using both underwater, I realized how much weaker it was and it's a loss I can definitely swallow. I will replace it with something more powerful. I was looking at the triple set from DGX but I need to take a look at the power. And I need to order more boltsnaps. I'll spend more and get those Xdeep ones which I think are great for cold water gloves cuz of the funky shape.
 
Thanks, those are some really gorgeous pictures. I have been looking at Cabo Pulmo once I'm at the point of going on vacations.
FYI, Southwest used to have direct flights out of OAK. Not sure right now. One of my buddies came in from the east bay and she met me in SNA for the bounce to SJD. If you do fly out of there with a cnx, make sure it's not LAX. SNA is best, SAN (diego) is good, PHX (um. if you have to), and LAX (I'd rather go via Arizona). :-D
 
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