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Face forward on the surface is normal for a back inflate BC... If you want a heads up, just deflate a little and sit way back like you are in a comfy recliner with your feet in front of you. Practice swimming backwards in this position while chatting with your buddy, or turn over and swim face in the water with your reg or snorkle in your mouth. You were probably taught to fully inflate your BC on the surface but back inflate is rarely comfortable this way, deflate a bit and you'll have more control. It's a compromise. New divers are often taught in jackets because they are more comfortable for them on the surface as they want to maintain a land based vertical position. This position is rarely ideal under water... get used to being in fish position and you'll be a happy fish :)
 
1. As noted, an inflator is a simple piece that is inexpensive to replace. It is also simple to fix with a schrader valve. Since it holds air, the o-rings might be just fine. At the very least, I would take it apart so I could see how it works. Most inflators work similarly. I like to be able to fix my stuff so that if it breaks on a trip I am not at the mercy of someone else. I carry extra schrader innards and an inflator tool in my save-a-dive kit.
2. I don't have anything to add except that I also think a crotch strap is a good idea.
3. Changing out hoses should be one of the most reasonable things to do to your own kit, but I see many shops get so skittish when you mention that you've done it. The key for "not too tight" that others mention is described in this thread Regulator Hose Torque Settings - basically finger tight plus an extra snug.
 
Thanks for all the responses!

1. I will buy a new inflator and install it. I will use the old one for studying the insides.

2. The BC does have trim weight pockets on both sides of the tank. I forgot to mention that I put 2 lbs. in each of these pockets and had the rest of the weights on a weight belt, probably another 12 lbs. The trim weights are not ditchable, so I didn't want to put too much in there. What's the rule of thumb for trim weights? What's a safe amount so that I don't get into trouble if I need to ditch weight?

The BC does have a crotch strap and I was using it, but I think the BC, as a whole, was too loose and the crotch strap was too loose as well so the BC overall was riding up. I've readjusted and the BC is a much more snug fit. I will play with the tank positioning as I don't think I can shift the backplate relative to the harness. The backplate isn't metal so probably doesn't affect weight distribution that much.

3. I'll do the hose replacements myself. I saw an Alec Peirce tutorial on YouTube and it looks doable. In his video, he has a regulator mount on his workbench and says mounting to a tank also works to stabilize the regulator while it's being worked on. I have neither the bench mount nor a tank. What's an alternative? Would my hands be able to supply a good counter to the wrench when I unscrew and screw the hoses?

Thanks again!
 
I would guess that if your hands are not enough to counter the wrench forces then the hoses are a bit too tight, or they haven't been changed in a while.
 
31tj3hrviel-_sl500_ac_ss350_-jpg.455437.jpg


This device was invented by the devil. Do not buy one. Its sole purpose is to strip nuts and scar surrounding chrome finishes.

Google "thin wrenches". $40 on amazon gets you a set of both metric and SAE wrenches. They're skinny, and you have the right tools for removing hoses from second stages, etc. Also cheap enough to be expendable when you take one on the boats and it rusts.

And if you have a bicycle you need the skinny wrenches anyway.
 
No...
this wrench is jamming nuts:
TB1eU41GFXXXXXAaXXXXXXXXXXX_!!0-item_pic.jpg


But I offer you much different:
31tj3hrviel-_sl500_ac_ss350_-jpg-455437-jpg.455538.jpg

:)

BTW: you have your regs for exibition or you just use it? :)
Also - how snug up you wish to screwin your nuts and hoses???

According Apex manuals: 2nd stage hose:
АТХ - 5 N*m (АТ20 - 3 N*m), same as 40 pounds per inch or 3,7 pounds per foot.

Calipso: 4.5 N*m (40 lbs*inch)

DIN connector - 20 N*m (Flight and Calipso - 25), HP stub and turret bolt - 8 N*m.
It is the same force, as you take 1 meter stick and attach to the end one can of beer 0.33L

One simpe trick - if you wish to stay your nuts perfect - just take piece of paper, double it, and put between wrench and nut :)
 
Follow-up...

1. I still haven't ordered the replacement inflator yet. (I'm slowly filling my shopping cart to get free shipping, as I keep buying things for an upcoming trip.) The Zeagle Scout is a back inflate similar to the Sopras Compact Lite, so I'm concentrating on getting the Sopras to work for me first.

2. I did a pool session today with the Sopras. I put 3 lbs. in each of the trim pockets on either side of the tank, then had 6 lbs. on the weight belt, so 12 lbs. total. With the weight belt, I tried three positions of the weights - toward the front, behind, and side of the hips. With toward the front, my legs tended to be below me. With behind, it felt better and it was easier to be pulled onto my back on the surface, instead of being pushed face-forward into the water. I compromised with side of the hips because if I rolled underwater, having all the weight behind me made me feel like a turtle being flipped on its back when I was face up in the roll.

The bladder is an oblong donut. The air tends to go to the top of the donut. My weights are midway on the tank and on my hips. All this seems to push me vertical instead of horizontal, if I don't actively adjust. Wouldn't it be better if the bladder somehow filled between the midway point on the tank and my hips /first/ so that I would be more balanced?

3. I replaced the hoses myself and no issues. Thanks for the encouragement!
 

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