BP/W Advice

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Thanks everybody for the great advice! I wound up getting the SS backplate, 23# wing, two plastic cam bands and skipped the STA.

My last question is, how should I handle weight, if necessary? I currently own a 5mm wetsuit because I'm pretty skinny (5'10" 160lbs) and get cold pretty easily. I've seen threads that mention weight belts, weight pockets on the harness and weights on the tank straps. What is best? Also, what would be the estimated weight difference from fresh water springs to the ocean?

For example with a SS plate, harness, reg and full al 80 your rig will be about -10 lbs with a full tank. A 3mm suit will be 3 ~ 5 lbs positive. That means a very small wing is plenty.
Tobin, what's the estimate for 5mm suit?
 
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when I was our size I used a 1/4" suit that's about a 6 mm. I used 10# lead. I have a harveys 3mm farmer john and I need 19# for it but I am 250# now amd about 4 pos myself. I use a 28-32 lift wing on a dss steel plate. and need every bit of it if I don't wear a 3/2 shorty on the surface with a full lp 120 tank and a lavacore.

You could get a 30# wing as a little extra is not much of a crime. it is useful when you have to lift your self and you buddy if he has a failure. my wings are oxycheq and oms. They are similar to dss in that they are STA less wings. I like the fill tube over the shoulder and not centered behind my neck. Don't get too big cause you will have a problem with a moving bubble from but to shoulders that fights a stable trim angle. I dive a steel plate normally. If I plan ahead to dive with the lavacore I will use ether the 40# wing or change to a al plate. AL plate for me is perfered.

If you are going to get this right you need to spend some pool time.

determine you buoyancy ,,,, nothing on

put on each suit and determine the buoyancy and comp it with your buoyancy. (IE you need 12# to get you under with a 3mm suit and you your self are +5. then the suit is a +7 suit.

set up your rig with no wing and hang it from a scale in the pool and weight it on a hanging scale. Its amazing how much it is negative. IE -6 plate -10 tank and you forget about valves and regs.its easy to get to -20.

If you do the tank in the pool thing with <400 psi in it then the goal is to have all the plusses equal the minus's. That is the situation you go for at end of dive at safety stop. idea is no air in wing and being neutral. measure without wing.

If your results are too negative then you laer to lighten up , perhaps using an al plate or a lighter tank +4>-4 instead of -1>-10

That given then the wing has to lift only the tank's air about 6-7 # and the lift on the suit when it gets compressed by pressure of depth. about 90% loss at 100 ft. + 10# to hold your head out of the water.

so you have -8 of air -15 from the suit compression that is 23#. minimum. need help lifting your buddy or put on a 7mm suit instead of qa 5mm and you neeed more. if youdont use a suit then you need a lot more in this case 15 more and that is now 38#. Thats why I always wear a wet suit.


Another option is to figure it out with out the suit and the suit will now become reserve buoyancy.
 
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@67macoshark

Individual buoyancy is a tough one, and is only a factor in making sure you choose the right plate material.

Those that are very negative typically require more exposure protection due to lack of body fat for insulation, but -5 is very rare, most people that "sink" are still only a pound or two negative. When you are diving in salt water that will usually get back to very close to neutral, and a 3mm shorty is usually enough to get that number to 0 in salt water. That is certainly a factor that you need to take into consideration if you are very negative though in plate selection. I am slightly negative, but in salt water with no exposure protection and an AL80, a SS plate is about perfect for me. I might be 1-2lbs negative because I use a DSS Long plate which is a little heavier than normal, but it's very very close. An extreme example of that is my brother who has a Kydex plate from DSS and with a LP72 in a 5mm wetsuit, he is still a couple of pounds negative in fresh water. He's about perfect in the salty stuff but he has no body fat on him and a lot of muscle.

Now, for people with lots of bioprene, if you are very positive, then you obviously should choose the steel backplates, but fat does not compress, so it does not need to be "compensated" for since it is a fixed value.

Wings are buoyancy compensation devices, so they are a device, that compensates, for buoyancy changes. In a configured diver, there are three things that need compensated for. Gas volume is #1, suit compression is #2, and anything that you plan to pick up that isn't big enough to justify a lift bag *usually lights, reels, misc stuff like that*. Tobin and I do beg to differ that you should also plan on a bit of a buffer to keep your head, first stage and valves high and dry, so I like to pad my wing size with 10lbs, but that's just me. I never seem to actually do that when ordering wings and my wings always seem to be close to maxed out at the beginning of the dive, but oh well. I don't do a lot of ocean diving, so for flat water stuff it is not a big deal.
So factor all of that in, and a 30lb wing is usually about right for 5/7mm wetsuits in a decently sized single tank *i.e. not a cave filled LP104 in a 7mm farmer john, but perfectly adequate for a 7mm steamer in something like a HP130.

now to @rgilkes, contrary to what is often said about Tobin, he is quite a nice guy and very helpful, and I'm sure that while he gave you quite a bit of good, and free advice, and you chose not to order a rig from him, he will still answer that question for you. That said the general rule of thumb is 2-3lbs per mm of wetsuit in the salty stuff. Closer to 3 for bigger suits, closer to 2 for smaller suits. You are probably in the closer to 2 range
 
My last question is, how should I handle weight, if necessary?

Get a pair of these:

DGX Gears Trim Weight Pocket (each) | Dive Gear Express®

or these:

http://www.leisurepro.com/p-xsstwp/xs-scuba-single-weight-pocket

You can put them on your tank straps, your waist belt, or make a weight belt out of a piece of webbing and a $3 SS buckle.

S/S Quick-Release Buckle, Heavy Duty, {2 in | 5.1 cm} | Dive Gear Express®

I have the XS Scuba ones and I would probably get the DGX Gears weight pockets next time. The XS ones are a little big. A single weight seems to be kind of floppy in there. The Gears pockets look a little bit smaller. Same price either way, though.
 
Wetsuits vary widely, best to test *your* suit.

Tobin

which can be done by putting it in a mesh bag, submerging it in water making sure to get all of the air pockets out, and adding lead until it becomes neutral or starts sinking. Can be done in a rubbermaid tub or a bathtub if you don't have access to a pool
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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