Bolt Snap for Primary Reg

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Is the o-ring method preferred/mandated for this, or is cave line acceptable for the attachment?

If cave line is ok, do you just follow the usual instructions, like for attaching one to a flashlight, and wrap the line around the hose, or is there a modified method that works best? Finally, should the snap be connected right at/on/to the metal of the linkage, or a couple inches farther from the reg?
 
I had been using an O-ring and zip tie because I couldn't make the snap stay in place with cave line. Someone helped me with it this weekend who used about 5 wraps of caveline around the hose and through the ring on the snap link. He then proceeded to really crank down on it and tie the knots. It's now solid, no slippage at all.
 
CompuDude:
Is the o-ring method preferred/mandated for this, or is cave line acceptable for the attachment?

If cave line is ok, do you just follow the usual instructions, like for attaching one to a flashlight, and wrap the line around the hose, or is there a modified method that works best? Finally, should the snap be connected right at/on/to the metal of the linkage, or a couple inches farther from the reg?

As far as I know, cave line is the preferred method. Most people I know try to tie it on the swedge (metal part), that is as close to the second stage as possible and still have room to grab it. The thing to think about is the farther the bolt snap is from the second stage, the farther it hangs down (and more play to move around) when it is clipped off.
 
Jasonmh:
As far as I know, cave line is the preferred method. Most people I know try to tie it on the swedge (metal part), that is as close to the second stage as possible and still have room to grab it. The thing to think about is the farther the bolt snap is from the second stage, the farther it hangs down (and more play to move around) when it is clipped off.
Makes sense, and agrees with both my thinking and the 5thd-x sites linked by SparticleBrane above. I had chosen the cave line method, although I think I need to re-do it tighter, but was concerned when I read this article which seemed to make a decent case for o-rings (for regs) (about 1/3 down the page):
http://e-nekton.com/archive/edition9/dirpart3.html

I guess that guy just has it wrong, at least on that point.
 
CompuDude:
Makes sense, and agrees with both my thinking and the 5thd-x sites linked by SparticleBrane above. I had chosen the cave line method, although I think I need to re-do it tighter, but was concerned when I read this article which seemed to make a decent case for o-rings (for regs) (about 1/3 down the page):
http://e-nekton.com/archive/edition9/dirpart3.html

I guess that guy just has it wrong, at least on that point.


I have seen that before too, and I am not sure how old the info on that site is. I don't profess to be an expert, but the cave line method was the only method taught in my dir-f class. From what I understand, in the past there were some teachings of using break-away connections, like zip-ties or o-rings, but I believe this thinking was reversed, and now the line method is preferred. This is pretty much the answer I got on Quest. Maybe someone else with more background than me can shed some more light on it, RTodd or DIR-Atlanta mabe?
 
Hey I just use cave line--seems to be the standard for attaching things. Might as well just use it for everything!
I tie my knots tight enough that they never slip around...just takes a few minutes of patience. :)
 
Cave line... There a way to tie it so that your bolt snap stands up and stays rigid (without purple pills :) ) 3 loops around then reverse around and between the boltsnap then overhand... square off and burn.

A lot easier to show and tell... not sure I can explain even on the phone... Compudude do you know LimeyX? He knows how
 
Green_Manelishi:
As small as you can reliably open and close. You want to avoid a huge-honking-piece-of-steel hanging off the second stage, especially when it's in use.

This is a remarkably good tip.
 

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