Best place to buy Oly 5050 and PT-015

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dvleemin

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Location
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
HI all,
I'm heading to Bonaire for 18 days in Jan :) and am thinking about upgrading to the PT-015 and Oly 5050. I currently have the Oly 3040 and PT-010.

Where is the best place to buy this?

Thanks,

Darryl
 
How much do you want to end up spending?

If you spend a little more, you'll get your camera with the least hassle (with these online dealers). The cheaper you go, the less reputable they become.

~Matt Segal
 
and the Ike housing (not the PT015) from Adorama.

Adorama is Leisurepro's camera biz. 17th Street has the advantage that they sell NO gray-market items; thus, all their cameras have a US warranty. They were also a couple of bucks cheaper than Adorama for the 5050.

The Ike housing was in stock at Adorama, and I like it a lot. Much more sturdy than the PT-015, and IMHO nicer underwater too.

The "stay pushed" button functions are an OUTSTANDING feature and make working the 5050's functions underwater a snap.
 
Genesis once bubbled...
and the Ike housing (not the PT015) from Adorama.

The "stay pushed" button functions are an OUTSTANDING feature and make working the 5050's functions underwater a snap.

I am contemplating getting the 5050 as well and have been wondering about this stay pushed button function I kept hearing about. Currently I have the Oly 4040 which does not require anything like that. So on the Oly 5050, when and what function of the camera would you need to press two buttons at the same time and do you need to use it often?
 
The most common use is to change the "My mode" (there are 8 shortcut settings); the "fastest" way is to set the "custom" button to activate that; you then press and hold that and turn the shuttle until you get the one you want, then release.

VERY DIFFICULT with the PT-015. Dirt trivial with the Ike housing, since the "custom" button is one of the holdable ones.

That's the most convenient - you can go through and change things using the menus, but its a LOT faster to set your preferred settings in "My Modes" and just swap those underwater.

The other "holddowns" are less frequently used, but still useful (e.g. flash mode being one, EV adjustment being another.)

The Ike housing also has a nice arm, is very-well balanced in the water, and is built like brick sheishouse - the polycarb its made out of is THICK STUFF. The main O-ring is also pretty beefy, which should reduce the risk of flooding (I hate hair-thin O-rings, as they make a flood vastly more likely.)
 
Thanks for the information. I do have the ikelite housing for my 4040 and I like their o-ring system a lot. Sounds like the stay pushed botton is going to be quite useful. Hmmm....
 
their "captured" O-rings (in their glands, etc) are actually X-rings.

If true (I haven't pulled apart any of the glands on my housing) these are VASTLY superior to ordinary O-rings, as they have two sealing surfaces rather than one. For dynamic seals they simply can't be beat.
 
Have you seen/held the PT-15 for the C-5050? I'm wondering about the size difference.

If been really happy with my PT-10 but I'm considering an upgrade to the C-5050 and I like the sound of the way to get around the holddown. I do use/change the flash and EV settings occasionally underwater.
 
But have not used it underwater.

The Ike housing is bigger, but then again its much more "beefy" in construction. It would have to be bigger :) The handle alone makes it significantly larger (I have the single handle; the double, which is an option, is even bigger, of course)

I don't find it problematic though - and it is extremely-well balanced, requiring very little effort to maneuver once underwater.

I got mine wet the other day, and will do some more playnig with it Sunday, assuming the seas lay down for me. My initial impressions of both the housing and camera in actual use were very favorable.

The "holddown" design is interesting. Basically, the buttons that have this function have a "cut cam plate" under the button. You can lift and rotate the button to "press" it by allowing the knob to drop into a detent, and when you release it, it stays down - and the button stays depressed. To release, you pull and rotate back to the "up" detent. There are four "locking" buttons - the two on the top do double-duty (they can press either of two on the top of the camera); you never need to press both of those at once, so this works very well. The other two on the side of the camera may need to be pressed at the same time; they have their own individual "locking" controls.

The only gripe is that the buttons for the rosette on the back of the camera are close together and its possible to press more than one, which is undesirable. However, I see no way Ike could have gotten around this - the buttons are close together on the CAMERA! Not a big problem in warm water, but with heavy drysuit gloves you might be less happy with that set of buttons.

One nice thing about the 5050 is that you can turn the display off when you're not using the camera without shutting it down - it comes back from being "asleep" in this fashion much faster than a cold power-up (since the only part that's off is the LCD), and with the LCD turned off power consumption is very close to zero.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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