Best P-valve on the market

[RichLockyer]

GearHead once bubbled...
I can definitely see the functionality, but wouldn't you still want a Quick Disconnect? It doesn't seem like this one would attach or detach very easily.

Here it is.
I found it at Bikeworld.com. Search for "coupler" or "hydration".
You want the "Quick Release 3/8" Coupler"

 

[GearHead]

RichLockyer once bubbled...

Here it is.
I found it at Bikeworld.com. Search for "coupler" or "hydration".
You want the "Quick Release 3/8" Coupler"

I'm glad I asked. Thanks for including the pic!

Rick

 

[BigJetDriver]

Gee whiz (so to speak)!

I never would have thought the subject of Pee Valves was so complex. I have the version from DUI, installed by them. It works well and is very simplistic.

As for the catheters, does anyone on the list know where to find a US company that specializes in those for the active-lifesyle disabled? There is a German company, but the web-site is in German, and I suspect they would be hard to obtain!

 

[grouchyturtle]

Bike World doesn't carry them anymore.

Also, the ones from US plastics probably have a higher working pressure. And most importantly both ends of the valve have a shut off.

Part #s:
60688
60813

They have other ones too that are a little bit of a lower working pressure, but only about $1 less. I'd say it's worth the few extra bucks.

 

[RichLockyer]

As for the catheters, does anyone on the list know where to find a US company that specializes in those for the active-lifesyle disabled? There is a German company, but the web-site is in German, and I suspect they would be hard to obtain!

I buy Rochester Widebands from www.sportaid.com . About $150 for a case of 100. They've got a pretty complete line.

 

[RichLockyer]

Also, the ones from US plastics probably have a higher working pressure. And most importantly both ends of the valve have a shut off.

I'm not too keen on having both ends shut off. Many prefer the non-shutoff variety, as it is no worse than what you had before... you just have to be careful when you disconnect that you can catch any drippings.
I like to have the suit side shut off as an extra measure of protection should a checkvalve fail, but I can still go on the boat without having to remove the hose from the cath.

Here's the McMaster info:
5012K83 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling, Socket For 3/8" Tube Id, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off 1 Each

5012K72 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling, Plug For 3/8"TUBE Id, 1/4" Coupler, Straight Thru 1 Each

Total was around $10 or $12 (will-call).

This type is a little more solid than the Camelback type, as the release is a stainless tab, rather than plastic. I was a little worried about it chaffing the suit, but when it is connected, the edges of the stainless are completely flush. When it is disconnected there is an edge, but you can push down on the trip pin inside the valve and release the clip so it snaps back to flush.

It's hard to tell from the photo on the McMaster page... it makes it look like the stainless tab is a cheap piece of spring steel, but it is stamped from a very solid 1/8 or 3/32 sheet stock.

 

[grouchyturtle]

Wouldn't it be better to have both ends shut off though. That way there are no drippings fromthe cath or the valve?

 

[RichLockyer]

Wouldn't it be better to have both ends shut off though. That way there are no drippings fromthe cath or the valve?

If you prefer that, a shutoff version of the male portion is available on the same McMaster catalog page.

I need to have mine open. Rather than going out on commercial dive boats, I dive from my buddy's boat, and our SI's are often hours long rather than an hour or so. Being able to "go" during SI's is a requirement.
I like to stay "rigged" the full day, as it is sometimes difficult to get good adhesion of the cath more than a few hours after the morning shower, and especially after a dive or two.

 

[grouchyturtle]

Oh yeah very good point I didn't even think of that. On the boats that usually isn't a problem, but shore dives, quarry, etc. we do tend to take very long SIs sometimes.

Damn like most things in diving it is a trade off! risk of dripping vs. not being able to go.

Thanks, you changed my mind. That would have been an expensive mistake. The polar ones are much cheaper too!

By the way, how do you clean the hose at the end of the day? After removing everything rinse the disconnect body and insert, then connect it and run water through I assume would be the easiest way?

 

[RichLockyer]

By the way, how do you clean the hose at the end of the day? After removing everything rinse the disconnect body and insert, then connect it and run water through I assume would be the easiest way?

Ya... blow water through it with the regular gear cleanup routine while I'm flushing the suit valves, then a flush with white vinegar once every month or two when I go through the "routine maintenance" day where I do more in-depth checks of the entire kit, flush the wing with a mild bleach solution, completely soak the drysuit (if it wasn't soaked after the last trip).