Here’s what my book says about wood.
Looks like allot of $$ in chemicals so you might want to plan this out and have everything ready before you recover it, and have a way to keep it wet on the ride home as well.
o yeah and pics.. so we can all monitor your progress.
this sounds cool so keep us posted.
after soaking wood in fresh water (I think your good there)
It must be dehydrated before conservation. Dehydration is accomplished by immersing the wood in 3 successive baths of denatured ethyl, or wood alcohol, each bath for at least one week.
The first bath should be 40%alcohol and 60% water. the second 60%alcohol and the third 100% alcohol.
After dehydration one of several procedures may be used for conservation.
one method is to place the wood in two sucessive baths of xylne. The first bath requires a week, xylene is a flammable isomeric hydrocarbon. do not use the solution near flame. and keep the solution containing the artifact in a tightly sealed container. When the wood is in the second bath of xylene paraffin ( a flammable waxy solid hydrocarbon mixture) chips should be added until a saturated solution of paraffin is obtained. you will recognize saturation when paraffin becomes recrystalized around the edge of the solution. Leave the wood in the saturated solution for aprox. 4 weeks. When the wood is removed allow the xylene to evaporate from it (remember xylene is flammable.)
after evaporation there will be a coat of small paraffin crystals left on the surface. A gentile brushing will remove them. The advantage to this is the artifact should retain its original shape because the paraffin replaces the water that was within the wood.
A faster method of conservation after dehydration is to slowly dry the object and then place it in a 1 to 1 solution of turpentine and boiled linseed oil for aprox. 2 weeks.
this process leaves the wood with a more natural look, however sometimes the pieces of wood will warp as they dry. This procedure leaves the wood with a distinctive odor that will go away over time.
(taken from COMPLETE WRECK DIVING A GUIDE TO DIVING WRECKS by Henry Keatts and Brian Skerry