Backplate finishing

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

LG Diver

Guest
Messages
581
Reaction score
1
Location
Los Gatos, CA, USA
# of dives
50 - 99
Hey all,

My new FredT backplate and STA arrived today (or so the UPS website says). I can't wait to get home and check the gear out- the anticipation is killing me!!! I bought the plate and STA unfinished, and I have a couple of questions about finishing them. Fred sent me a PDF with finishing instructions that's pretty thorough, but there are a couple of things I wanted to clarify. First off, he recommends a "flame grinding bob" if using a Dremel to break the edges. I have no idea what this is. Can someone point me to a link to the proper Dremel bit to use for the edges, and also a good countersink bit for breaking the edges on the holes? Second, should I be using some sort of lubricating oil with the Dremel and with the sandpaper for the final finish, or just work it dry? Lastly, should I do any sort of finishing sand on the whole surface of the plate and STA? If so, what do you recommend in terms of sanding media and pattern? I may at some point take it to a shop and have them do a nice glass bead blast on it, so should I just leave the surface alone for now? I was wondering how hitting it with a random orbital sander with some very fine sandpaper would look.

Thanks,
John
 
get some 80 grit, sand until smooth, get 180 sand until smooth, keep going untill you get to 2000 grit, get some polish, and BOOM it looks like chrome.;) have fun!!!!
*edit* congrats on the bp/w you will love it.
 
I'm not so much concerned with a mirror finish, in fact I think they're too high maintenance. I've seen backplates with surface rust and read in other threads that this is attributable to embedded carbon steel from the plate bending process. I don't necessarily want to shell out the bucks to have the thing passivated but if there's some sort of surface finish I can do at home that accomplishes the same thing I'll invest a little elbow grease to avoid surface rust- even if it's cosmetic only.

Thanks, I'm sure I will love it. I've heard so many good things about Fred's plates and he was very easy to work with.
 
LG Diver:
Hey all,

My new FredT backplate and STA arrived today (or so the UPS website says). I can't wait to get home and check the gear out- the anticipation is killing me!!! I bought the plate and STA unfinished, and I have a couple of questions about finishing them. Fred sent me a PDF with finishing instructions that's pretty thorough, but there are a couple of things I wanted to clarify. First off, he recommends a "flame grinding bob" if using a Dremel to break the edges. I have no idea what this is. Can someone point me to a link to the proper Dremel bit to use for the edges, and also a good countersink bit for breaking the edges on the holes? Second, should I be using some sort of lubricating oil with the Dremel and with the sandpaper for the final finish, or just work it dry? Lastly, should I do any sort of finishing sand on the whole surface of the plate and STA? If so, what do you recommend in terms of sanding media and pattern? I may at some point take it to a shop and have them do a nice glass bead blast on it, so should I just leave the surface alone for now? I was wondering how hitting it with a random orbital sander with some very fine sandpaper would look.

Thanks,
John

John,

A "flame bob" is a burr that's shaped like a candle flame. You might want cutting oil, not lubricating oil. Be very careful when using the die grinder that you allow the burr to contact only one side of the slot at a time. If you let the burr contact on two sides of the slot, or more than ~100 degrees of the circumference of the tool, it will grab and chatter.

For SS I'd select a carbide burr with pretty fine teeth.

I'd suggest scotchbrite pads to rub down the surface, the marroon GP pads should do it. Some 180 grit wet and dry paper will help with any scratches or brake die marks.

Happy rubbing!


Tobin
 
I should start a "pimp my scubagear" biz :). might make it on tv with it! just kidding!!!
 
LSDeep:
I should start a "pimp my scubagear" biz :). might make it on tv with it! just kidding!!!
I immagine all these MTV kids watching the show, listening to our lingo with puzzlement...AHAHAH! now they know how I feel!!!
 
Kwbyron:
I immagine all these MTV kids watching the show, listening to our lingo with puzzlement...AHAHAH! now they know how I feel!!!

LOL to true - but would a great one - yellow or red rhinestonestudded octopus with diamond bezeled gauges ;)
 
LSDeep:
I should start a "pimp my scubagear" biz :). might make it on tv with it! just kidding!!!

I can only imagine what will happen when the p-valve craze hits the street :lol:
 
When I finish off my plates I use a carbide, cylindrical burr to knock off the sharp edges and then finish them with a file.

After that I glass bead the plate to give it a more "sticky" grip on the diver's wet/dry suit.

A really shiny, pretty finish gets scratched up after a while. I suppose one could say that those are battle scars or whatever, but I'll take my plate and re-blast it everynow and then to make it look new again.

The Kraken
 

Back
Top Bottom