Atomic vs

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Packing the B2 1st stage with Christolube for coldwater diving makes those services REALLY REALLY expensive. You won't have that expense with an Apeks or SP MK17.
 
Packing the B2 1st stage with Christolube for coldwater diving makes those services REALLY REALLY expensive. You won't have that expense with an Apeks or SP MK17.
The expense of doing it yourself really isn’t that bad so long as you do it yourself but I’m now just running MK17’s so it’s not necessary.
 
Packing the B2 1st stage with Christolube for coldwater diving makes those services REALLY REALLY expensive. You won't have that expense with an Apeks or SP MK17.

The lube can be expensive (not to mention a bit of a PITA), but here again the frequency matters. Also one can dive pretty cold (>5C) water before it is really necessary.
 
Can someone elaborate on the inspection service required at the half way point in the service cycle? Aqua Lung recommends an annual inspection of the regulator with a full tear-down and replacement of wearable parts every two years. What does the shop do at this "in-between / intermediate" service? On a piston regulator, it is my understanding that the high pressure seat, should not be reused as the piston will have created a groove into the seat. So if you take apart a piston regulator, does not automatically mean, the HP seat, at minimum is replaced? Is this more a gimmick by the manufacturer to ensure a revenue stream to the service center?
 
Though not specific to any brand the inspection should be looking for signs of corrosion, abnormal wear, IP creep, cracking effort, etc. basically what is in Couv list: Regulator Inspection and Checklist (Rev-8)

If anything is found then it may be best to overhaul the reg. But it may be as simple as replacing a part that does not involve opening the reg.

FWIW the shop tech who taught me emphasized that reg inspection was what he did first. If there were no contraindications then he charged for an inspection rather than a rebuild.
 
It’s just a guess, but I think inspection is a visual inspection of the hoses and filter, IP check, second stage cracking pressure check, no disassembly involved.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom