Supermanwoot
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If only he would turn his immense talents towards developing a wireless Cobalt...
fixt
props to Ron, running tech help on this forum has to be tough as nails... or ferrous metals
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If only he would turn his immense talents towards developing a wireless Cobalt...
Atomic's main customer service contact is via telephone- I'll try to answer your questions below as best I can.Hello, everyone. I am very new to scuba board and tell you that it is a great place to get some cool ideas and pick a good deal of a knowledge, therefore thanks to all.
So, I tried to find, and it is probably my fault that I couldn't so far, some ways to contact anyone, by email, from Atomic Aquatics so i could ask some questions and get an appropriate help. But I guess scuba board is the only place to inquire.
I believe there is a plan to offer multiple lengths. We get about as many complaints that the hose is too long as too short. In any case, the QD fitting can be changed to any other HP hose quite easily.On my first dive I noticed that hose was a little too short for me. Another words computer was situated too close to my face and it was inconvenient to read compass and other information from its screen.
This is also a report that has come in frequently. The Cobalt temperature sensor is a part of the depth sensor, and it's located fairly deep inside the unit, so it may not respond as quickly as some other computers. But whenever we have checked the Cobalt sensors against good thermometers, they have been very accurate. Based on our experience, I'd trust the Cobalt.So first question was if computer is really reading temperature of the water properly? Mine was shooing 42'F and four others displayed 37-39, depending on models. Next two dives it was approximately the same difference. Cobalt was showing a higher temperature then other machines. I assume it maybe not as important as same other information, but I though that I could mention it.
First, these compass chips are not highly accurate- within 5° or so is quite good for them. That's about as close as you could get with a conventional analog compass (at least one small enough for diving), and no one can swim a course that accurately, so in practical terms this is fine. As far as the 3D compensation, it really should work well- if you are rotating the Cobalt accurately, say inside a frame against a reference line, then you might see that there is a small variation as you pass from horizontal to inverted, but it should read with reasonable accuracy in any orientation. However, if you are gradually raising the compass towards vertical, the magnetic vector the compass sees will diminish rapidly. You are moving the Cobalt closer and closer to being parallel to the angle it is attempting to measure. Depending on your location, you might reach a point well before vertical where the direction you are pointing the Cobalt becomes so close to parallel to the flux lines that tiny variations in how you hold the compass become huge swings in direction- it's impossible to hold it accurately enough by hand to keep a consistent heading. The magnetic flux is not parallel to the earth's surface, but varies with location (it's inclined 69°23' where we are, you can visit http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/geomagmodels/struts/calcIGRFWMM to calculate for your area). That's why the compass needs to be calibrated in your area, and can't be set at the factory. This would be true of any digital compass, and conventional analog compasses can't, of course, be tilted much at all. Additionally, the compensation put in by the accelerometer depends on measuring an angle- if that angle is moving (you are moving the compass) it will be less accurate. The compass response is dampened for relatively slow underwater motions, readings that come from rapid motions are discarded, so moving more quickly topside will make the compass less accurate.Compass, in my humble opinion, is not true 3D. Horizontal reading, in comparison with any other position of the unit, quite differs. If I held Cobalt, in compass mode, parallel to the ground and then slowly raise it up, numbers quickly proclaim some significant changes. Willingly enough, I tolerate that it is me who is doing something wrong any thoughts on that? (It was calibrated outside, with a reference line and on a piece of glass)
And today, the 3ed dive, first what I noticed that lower right set of numbers (amount of gas left in a tank) don't get change for a very long time. FOUR slow inhalation, to be exact, according to the display, did not effect on the amount of left air supply. I tried again - same thing. Couple of second latter, numbers got change, jumping quickly to a lower volume. I was finishing the dive and being still under water purge some large quantity of air, constantly watching display. Same picture. Effect was taking quite some time latter. On the shore, after doffing and taking some rest, I've decided to check it again. Woke up computer and took reading of 860 psi left in the bottle. I pressed purge button on my regulator and, watching the screen, held it for 7 seconds. (1 Mississippi, 2 Miss .. and so on) After release, it took full 4 seconds for a number to jump from 860 to 760. Then, sometime latter, they returned to 785. I closed tank, disconnected the unit, washed with a fresh water both connectors, reconnected them again, open the tank and ran through whole exercise again - same picture. Any thoughts on that?
Thank you to all for your time and happy diving.
p.s. by the way, i still think it is a great piece of equipment and recently purchased SS1 and like it very much.
We're constantly looking to find better components. The compass chip in the Cobalt is commonly used in handheld devices such as small GPS units (it essentially what is in the iPhone, for instance). You can get compasses that are much more accurate, but they are also much more expensive (and most are much larger, being designed more for navigational/ aviation applications, and use more power). We didn't think that the boost in accuracy to 1° or better from 5° would be worth, say, another $150 at retail to most divers. 5° is about what a typical analog compass of the type used for diving can resolve, and it's pretty hard to swim more accurately. The digital compass/ accelerometer combo also works in all orientations, which an analog compass will not do.First, these compass chips are not highly accurate- within 5° or so is quite good for them. That's about as close as you could get with a conventional analog compass (at least one small enough for diving),
Time to look for a different sensor then... that is just lousy.
Sounds like you found the issue, shifting in the cardboard box is certainly a possibility. I carry a small plastic brochure holder (BP800C, less than $2 from Tap Plastics, Plastic Brochure Holders and Acrylic Literature Displays: TAP Plastics ) that I cut to access the keypad. I put a bit of foam in the sides, and it gives an easy and accurate rotation for calibration. It could be an idea for a case...Hope this might help someone with an erratic compass despite having followed the instructions as best the crappy box jig provided will allow.