Aquarius Rebuild Kit

[Scott G. Bonser]

So google maps was wrong? Imagine that.

Anyway, too bad they closed - it's nice having a source of o-rings nearby that references the SAE codes.

You may want to look at Northeast Marine Supply under SCUBA rebuild kits. Let me try later. If I find I will forward to you.

 

[John C. Ratliff]

I went back and watched the You Tube video on servicing the Aquarius 1st stage. I’ve got a crusty old Aquarius 1st in my chowder box and thought it would be good experience for me to service it this Winter. Unfortunately, with Bryan’s passing, the VDH rebuild kits shown in the video are unavailable. Does anyone know where I can source an Aquarius service kit? (factory or aftermarket will be OK) I doubt I’ll use it outside of a pool test, I just want to see what the process is like, and with this old Aquarius 1st,, I’ll just be paying the price of the kit to have the fun and experience. Any suggestions?
TIA ~

Okay, I’m going to jump in here. If it were mine, I doubt I’d be looking for a “rebuild kit” for this regulator. The first stage has two moving parts, the piston and the spring. Neither needs replacing. The sealing is done by 3 O-rings, which probably can be reconditioned with some silicone grease. Take the O-rings off, coat them with the silicone grease (food grade), and let them stand for a day or so. Wipe the excess off, and replace them onto the piston and body. The plug O-rings should also be treated the same way.

The Piston and spring should be cleaned by placing it in a 50% water/50% acetic acid (white vinegar) solution for a few minutes (don’t leave it there long), rinsed and wiped clean. The sintered filter can be similarly cleaned, along with the body and plugs.

If you have a second stage, usually the seat can be turned over and re-used. The second stage can also be cleaned in a similar manner as described above.

This is a really robust regulator, and these “re-build kits” have been sales generators for decades, many times unnecessarily. Dive regulators are made to be used and used and used. If handled well, washed and dried, re-build kits are many times unnecessary. Regular cleaning and maintenance will allow these regulators to function a long time.

So when is a re-build kit necessary? Well, if after doing the above it leaks, there may have been actual damage to the O-ring(s). If damaged, the O-rings need to be replaced. Same applies to the seat(s) (which may be repaired by simply flipping them).

‘Hope this helps. I know it’s a different perspective, but I have some Healthways single hose regulators which are decades old, and have never had a re-build. By the way, the seat in a piston regulator first stage dosn’t get any wear if not pressurized. I’ve dived my Healthways regulators regularly over the years, and they still function well. (I did have to replace the first stage diaphragm on the original Healthways Scuba regulator, as it had thinned so much that I could not get it to pressurize correctly.).

162FC964-C122-40CA-9620-EF54FDB09612 by John Ratliff, on Flickr
One of my collection of Healthways Scubair regulators.

SeaRat

PS, the two parts which may need replacing would be the second stage diaphragm, especially if it’s the older neoprene material, and the non-return mushroom valve in the second stage, again especially if its the old neoprene material.

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

Okay, I’m going to jump in here. If it were mine, I doubt I’d be looking for a “rebuild kit” for this regulator. The first stage has two moving parts, the piston and the spring. Neither needs replacing. The sealing is done by 3 O-rings, which probably can be reconditioned with some silicone grease. Take the O-rings off, coat them with the silicone grease (food grade), and let them stand for a day or so. Wipe the excess off, and replace them onto the piston and body. The plug O-rings should also be treated the same way.

The Piston and spring should be cleaned by placing it in a 50% water/50% acetic acid (white vinegar) solution for a few minutes (don’t leave it there long), rinsed and wiped clean. The sintered filter can be similarly cleaned, along with the body and plugs.

If you have a second stage, usually the seat can be turned over and re-used. The second stage can also be cleaned in a similar manner as described above.

This is a really robust regulator, and these “re-build kits” have been sales generators for decades, many times unnecessarily. Dive regulators are made to be used and used and used. If handled well, washed and dried, re-build kits are many times unnecessary. Regular cleaning and maintenance will allow these regulators to function a long time.

So when is a re-build kit necessary? Well, if after doing the above it leaks, there may have been actual damage to the O-ring(s). If damaged, the O-rings need to be replaced. Same applies to the seat(s) (which may be repaired by simply flipping them).

‘Hope this helps. I know it’s a different perspective, but I have some Healthways single hose regulators which are decades old, and have never had a re-build. By the way, the seat in a piston regulator first stage dosn’t get any wear if not pressurized. I’ve dived my Healthways regulators regularly over the years, and they still function well. (I did have to replace the first stage diaphragm on the original Healthways Scuba regulator, as it had thinned so much that I could not get it to pressurize correctly.).

162FC964-C122-40CA-9620-EF54FDB09612 by John Ratliff, on Flickr
One of my collection of Healthways Scubair regulators.

SeaRat

PS, the two parts which may need replacing would be the second stage diaphragm, especially if it’s the older neoprene material, and the non-return mushroom valve in the second stage, again especially if its the old neoprene material.

Good call on that one, John. I want to add this. The MR12 II seats in mine were deteriorated beyond ‘flipping’. I had to order new seats from The Scuba Museum. Rob has these in stock. Keep the brass fitting the seat goes in unless it’s bad, just Clean out well and just replace the seat & reinstall the fitting and readjust to factory setttings.The new ones not easy to install but I did mine just fine. Now I have 2 nice working octo 2nd stages.
Scott G. Bonser

 

[Green Frog]

I started this thread talking about the relatively easy job of rebuilding the Aquarius 1st stage which is the simplest 1st stage (piston type) imaginable. As could be predicted, the rebuilding of the 1085 (plated brass) 2nd stage came into the conversation pretty quickly. IMO this is a short step up in level of difficulty... a short step but significant.

Suggestions for techniques and parts sources are coming in well - I still miss my shot at dealing with VDH and hope someone will pick up the torch and continue to make the great parts selection they offered. A special shout out to @Scott G Bonser and @James79 for their help and suggestions. Scott for one is a true vintage gear enthusiast. To me it’s all just gear, and I like what I like! Thanks!

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

I started this thread talking about the relatively easy job of rebuilding the Aquarius 1st stage which is the simplest 1st stage (piston type) imaginable. As could be predicted, the rebuilding of the 1085 (plated brass) 2nd stage came into the conversation pretty quickly. IMO this is a short step up in level of difficulty... a short step but significant.

Suggestions for techniques and parts sources are coming in well - I still miss my shot at dealing with VDH and hope someone will pick up the torch and continue to make the great parts selection they offered. A special shout out to @Scott G Bonser and @James79 for their help and suggestions. Scott for one is a true vintage gear enthusiast. To me it’s all just gear, and I like what I like! Thanks!

Cool Beans G F. As you get to work on your Aquarius you will be able to see the similarities with the 1st and 2nd stage of each make & model of different ‘brands’ of gear ‘ Guts ‘. The parts may be ‘milled‘ a bit different but they work pretty much the same. Some of this even holds true crossing from DHRs to SHRs. By dissecting these regs, you will be able to evaluate what is needed. …looking for a source. S B is the best place to connect up with folks who do this…( unlike me ) a lot, especially the original vdh group that monitors this site.

Scott G. Bonser

 

[John C. Ratliff]

Good call on that one, John. I want to add this. The MR12 II seats in mine were deteriorated beyond ‘flipping’. I had to order new seats from The Scuba Museum. Rob has these in stock. Keep the brass fitting the seat goes in unless it’s bad, just Clean out well and just replace the seat & reinstall the fitting and readjust to factory setttings.The new ones not easy to install but I did mine just fine. Now I have 2 nice working octo 2nd stages.
Scott G. Bonser

The interesting thing about the MR-12 is that, unlike the Aquarius, it is a balanced diaphragm first stage. Now a balanced diaphragm first stage always has some spring pressure on the seat, even when unpressurized. This is unlike the piston regulators (Aquarius, Scubair series, etc.) which when unpressurized have no tension whatsoever against the first stage seat. (I’m currently checking this statement, but I think it’s correct.)

SeaRat

PS, My assumption was wrong; for both balanced diaphragm and piston regulators, the seat is free of impact until the regulator is put on a tank and pressurized.

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

The interesting thing about the MR-12 is that, unlike the Aquarius, it is a balanced diaphragm first stage. Now a balanced diaphragm first stage always has some spring pressure on the seat, even when unpressurized. This is unlike the piston regulators (Aquarius, Scubair series, etc.) which when unpressurized have no tension whatsoever against the first stage seat. (I’m currently checking this statement, but I think it’s correct.)

SeaRat

PS, My assumption was wrong; for both balanced diaphragm and piston regulators, the seat is free of impact until the regulator is put on a tank and pressurized.

That is what I have found as well. I do make every effort to dissect my eBay restoration projects in order to evaluate for oxidation and wear & tear. Despite all of the abuse these things get, even with used rental gear, I find the 1st stage to be free of a great deal of abuse evidence I find in the second stage…so far I haven’t purchased a complete ‘wreck’.

Scott G. Bonser

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

That's how I started (Ebay reg to tear apart as a learning excercise).... Now I have a serious problem (and still dive that reg!). lol.

Best,

James

….my favorite regulator from my SCUBA class in ’77. They had these as well as the ScubaPro regs. I liked the performance and ease of using the MR12 & MR12 IIs they used. Mine are a bit older but still a top performer. When I got certified it was a ‘Toss-up’ between the MR12s ( IIs as well ) and the DACOR Olympic 400. I got the DACOR Oly 400. It still breathes great with minimal servicing. (I wish my Pacers were that easy to adjust.)

Touche’, James.
Scott G. Bonser, ‘the’ giantfroginthepool……….”Hey! look There’s a GIANT ‘frog’ in our Pool….and he’s blowin’ bubbles. …don’t look too tasty either, and he has a long tube with a pointy rod he shoots at sunken milk jugs with….” LOL, LMAO…Hah, ha ha. It’s ALL good.

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

….my favorite regulator from my SCUBA class in ’77. They had these as well as the ScubaPro regs. I liked the performance and ease of using the MR12 & MR12 IIs they used. Mine are a bit older but still a top performer. When I got certified it was a ‘Toss-up’ between the MR12s ( IIs as well ) and the DACOR Olympic 400. I got the DACOR Oly 400. It still breathes great with minimal servicing. (I wish my Pacers were that easy to adjust.)

Touche’, James.
Scott G. Bonser, ‘the’ giantfroginthepool……….”Hey! look There’s a GIANT ‘frog’ in our Pool….and he’s blowin’ bubbles. …don’t look too tasty either, and he has a long tube with a pointy rod he shoots at sunken milk jugs with….” LOL, LMAO…Hah, ha ha. It’s ALL good.

…yeah. I ain’t messin with THAT FROG. He’s a pretty darn good shot with that ‘spear thingy’ …He doesn’t MISS!! …

 

[Green Frog]

And now for a return to the thread topic. It appears that some of the Aquarius 1st stages had a star clip to refrain the mesh filter and some had an internal spring clip. Has anyone established whether or not they will interchange?

Also, it appears that mesh filter in the Aquarius is the same as the one in the Conshelf series. Is this indeed the case, and can they be interchanged?